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Old 05-12-2006, 07:57 AM   #46
Joe T
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U got it

I'll share!!....it's the least I can do for all of the great knowledge you guys share in this site. I had a few homebrews last night while perusing the kerdi shower book....can't wait to get started on that project....thanks
I don't know if you can get Yuengling beer out the in the lonestar state, but if you ever run across it...give it a shot. It's brewed here in Pa. The oldest brewery in the US.....lager or Lord Chesterfield Ale.....yummy!!

You guys have some fine brews out there, i used to get out to Killeen to Ft. Hood for my job. Been to Austin afew times too. Happy tilling
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Old 05-12-2006, 05:02 PM   #47
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I don't know about chesterfield ale, But man that lager gives me a terrible headache. I think it is the green bottle effect.
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Old 05-13-2006, 11:53 AM   #48
John Bridge
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Yuengling sounds un-American.
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Old 05-14-2006, 09:00 AM   #49
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Where to purchase Kerdi in Houston Area

John,
I just downloaded you ebook and ordered the Tile Your World book. I have an old shower that was made with Greenboard and an acrylic shower pan. The tiles are all but falling off the walls.

My initail plan was to put in my own liner and mud job for the pan (never done it before but, I'm very handy [see my Fireplace job a few years ago]). Then I would take down the 1/2" drywall and replace it with 1/2" backer board.

But after looking briefly at the Kerdi system I may go that route. Is the Kerdi hands down better than backer board? I didnt realize that even the backer board needed a liner or waterproofing.

Where in the Houston area can an average Joe purchase the Kerdi material. And what are the typical cost?

Darrell
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Old 05-14-2006, 10:58 AM   #50
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Hi Darrell,

The Kerdi shower is king in my book (literally).

I recommend that you (and all weekend warriors) do an accurate take-off, add a little for slop, and then order your Schluter materials from Tile-Experts. The link is in our store. Your order will be shipped promptly and will arrive in a few days direct to your door step. The prices are reasonable, much better than you could expect from a tile retailer. Furthermore, Tile-Experts is the only outfit I know of that will cut the material you need off the roll and sell it to you.

It might not mean a lot, but I buy all my Kerdi and Kerdi-drains from Tile Experts. I get a better price than I can get locally through distributors -- even factoring in the shipping cost.
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Old 05-14-2006, 11:10 AM   #51
TWalker
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Question Shower Pan

Help Please
I have gotten to the point where my vinly membrain is down in the shower. Is this when I would call for my inspection.?
Thanks,Teresa
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Old 05-14-2006, 03:59 PM   #52
dbdors
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Kerdi Supplier

John,
Thanks, when I did a search Tile-Experts was the first that I found. I still have to read through your book and I'm awaiting the arrival of the Tile book. After I read these, I'll get an order in.

I appears that I may even save a little money. I was planning to use backer on the walls and purchase a marble shower pan. Using the Kerdi and building a pan may be a little cheaper.

I'm sure that after I read some, I'll post some questions before I get started.
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Old 05-14-2006, 04:55 PM   #53
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Hi Teresa,

You'll have to start your own thread on that one, as it has nothing to do with the Kerdi Shower Book.
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Old 05-16-2006, 08:57 AM   #54
sdorsey638
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Kerdi Shower Floor

I have a shower that is almost finished. I would like to use the Kerdi Tray and Drain. Is this a good idea or should I consider using the shower wall material?? This shower is in a corner; therefore, it is open on two sides. Thanks for any ideas and responses.

SueD.
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Old 05-16-2006, 06:09 PM   #55
John Bridge
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Hi Sue,

I don't know what you mean by "almost finished." If the shower is only framed up and still open, then certainly, Kerdi is an option. Tell us in what state the shower is.
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Old 05-21-2006, 01:39 PM   #56
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drypack-building out from an off-center 32x60?

Hi John,

In the traditional centered shower floors, I understand that the Kerdi ST has to be centered exactly and built out evenly on all sides.

I'm finding that because of the location of our joists (remodel), we're needing to use a 32x60 *offcenter* ST and build it out to our 40x69. Should I still move the 69" length to center the extra 9" evenly between both ends, or should I position it flush up against the 32" side that's close to the drain (where we had our tub before) and just build the entire extra 9" out on the other end, keeping 1/4"per1' grade in mind? I'll be centering the 32" and building out 4" on each side of that for that dimension.

I hope that's clear--if it's not, please feel free to ask me to make it so, and if it's been answered already, if you could point me in the direction of the answer, I'd appreciate it. Thanks very much!
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:09 PM   #57
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Elsie,

You would still position the tray in the middle and plumb your drain accordingly. Placing all the fill on one end would raise the floor on that end higher than on the other walls.


I think it is becoming clear why I always opt for mud floors.
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Old 05-21-2006, 03:19 PM   #58
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That makes sense!

You know, the things you'd think you can reason out for yourself...DUH I'm sorry about that.

I would *almost* consider doing a mud bed but honestly I'm scared out of my wits about it and I'd feel so much more comfortable doing an addition to something that I know is already mostly done right than trying to make an entire mud bed right on my own. Maybe I'll study your book and the forum more before I order the ST.

Thanks very much.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:30 PM   #59
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Well, there's certainly nothing wrong with using the tray if it works for you.
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Old 05-28-2006, 06:20 PM   #60
Mike_Snyder
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Kerdi Question

Hi John! Just finished reading the Kerdi Shower Book, now I'm reading TYW (I know..backwards) I am a fairly competient weekend warrior with a lot of experience in tile setting floors and kitchen backsplashes. I am going to be tackling a 4x6 steam shower and want to use the Kerdi membrane. You mention in your KSB that you can do the shower walls before the floor. I would think the Kerdi membrane would have to be installed top/down, always overlapping, in a similar fashion to roof shingles to ensure the water doesn't get behind the lower section of membrane. Since the adhesive used to 'glue' the Kerdi is thinset, which isn't waterproof can't water get behind the lower section of Kerdi, assuming you lay (and overlap) the Kerdi on the floor after the Kerdi was installed on the wall? Please let me know if my question is unclear and if I missed something when I read the KSB.

BTW, great books and great forum!

Mike
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