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Old 07-11-2005, 01:01 AM   #1
pchidel
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Problem with installing hardi backer board in shower

We are in the throws of remodeling our son's bathroom and as first time renovators, we're a bit stumped. We are installing 1/2" hardibacker board on the walls and are having a devil of a time getting the screws flush, not to mention slightly recessed. HELP! Today we purchased a 14.4 volt cordless impact drill ...but it's still not making the screws flush. We've also tried pre-drilling a few holes -- no luck! Do the screws have to be completely flush/recessed? If yes, then what are we to do??

pchidel

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Old 07-11-2005, 02:44 AM   #2
Tool Guy - Kg
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Hi, pchidel

If ya gotta first name, we'd be happy to use it.

About those screws.....they don't need to be perfectly flush, but try to get them as good as you can.....definately no need to countersink them.

Tell us the problem you're having. Are the problem screws coming to a stop before they are flush, or is the wood being stripped out before the heads are flush? Or are they just snaping in two?

What kind of screws are you using? The "backer-on" screws that are usually sold alongside the piles of Hardi at Home Depot work rather well, especially the square headed variety. They are specifically designed for this purpose. One neat little feature of these screws are little "nibs" under their heads that help cut their way into the board so they lay nice and flush.

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Old 07-11-2005, 08:05 AM   #3
Lola
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Use the screws sold with the board, make sure your drilll is powerful enough. The trick is, after you set a screw, back it off and drive it in again. They should go flush if you've started them straight.
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:42 AM   #4
Bruce K
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Unhappy

I went through the same thing a few weekends ago. Get the screws with the square head, not the phillips head. The phillips heads will pop out almost all the time. After using the square head screws, I still had to back almost every screw out, and then re-screwed it, and they went in flush. Only about 10% went in flush first try.

And make sure the screws are for the exact CBU you are using (Hardibacker screws for Hardbacker, etc.)

Just installing the CBU is much more work than I was anticipating.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:04 PM   #5
NCTILEMAN
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14.4 volt just isn`t strong enough. I use a 19.2 volt and sometimes I still back them out and reset them.
Gary
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:43 PM   #6
Tool Guy - Kg
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I have no problems with my DeWALT 14.4V drivers driving any screw. Got 3 of them currently. Oldest is 8 years old. Been dropped off ladders onto cement more times than I like to admit. Never hafta back them out and re-drive them either. Drive em flush, done, next. Fact is, most of their lives they've been doin' cbu screw duty.

The "backer on" brand screws work real well. If you have to back them out, and re-drive them, you are using an underpowered driver.

The impact drivers are really a neat newer tool. Extra punch for the same voltage.

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Old 07-11-2005, 11:18 PM   #7
pchidel
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Thanks for all of the great advice! This forum is awesome. BTW, the name is Patty.

I picked up the screws specifically for the Hardiboard and what a nice surprise to find the drill bit in the package. Tested them out as soon as I came home and they work!! So well in fact, I have to watch the pressure so as to not drive the screws in too far.

Thanks again to all who offered their advice -- you have made this first time project doable!

Patty
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:31 PM   #8
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Delighted to hear it, Patty. Thanks for the update.
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Old 07-12-2005, 01:35 PM   #9
Kfoutts
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pre-drill with sheet rock screws

Pchidel..

I just did the same thing, the package on the screws says no pre-drilling needed, but I ran sheet rock screw in most of the way first, the put the Hardibacker screws in, that worked well for me. They'll go right in. The Sheet rock screws do a better job of pulling the Hardibacker tight against the stud, so if you leave one of the sheetrock scews in at the bottom or top while screwing in the Hardibacker screws it also helps.
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