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Old 07-04-2005, 11:24 AM   #1
Gamegod
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Question Tile before paint or after ?

I live in las vegas and most every one here uses mastic for the walls and of all the info I have found you should treat the transition joint the same as a CBU joint then after the joint has dried use sheetrock mud to feather the transition just like it was a sheetrock joint ! this is where I have stopped work on the wall till i get more info - some of my tiles will fall on the feathered mud area and im a little worried that the mastic will emulsify the sheetrock mud - I was told by a tile setter here I should texture and paint the wall up to the CBU, is it ok to paint first what type of paint ??

A pic of what i started with - greenboard should be outlawed
Heres a picture of my transition from CBU to Sheet Rock -

Mike
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Old 07-04-2005, 11:31 AM   #2
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Hi Mike, welcome. It is ok to paint first, most likely a semigloss, just when you set your tile you are way better off using thinset to set the tile instead of mastic.
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Old 07-04-2005, 11:40 AM   #3
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Hi Mike,
Paint first and tile over the paint line for a much cleaner finish. Use thin-set as the mastic is entirely inappropriate for wet locations. What sort of moisture barrier is behind your backerboard? If you don't have one, I strongly recommend a paintable membrane like Redguard or Blue Devil.
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Old 07-04-2005, 12:12 PM   #4
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test tiling

Hello and thanks for the paint info, for fun I did a test using both a mastic and modified thinset - and I think the reason ppl use the mastic here is the open time of the adhesive, between the warm dry air and the moisture absorbing Cbu the thinset starts to skins over very fast - this is what I found doing the test tiling, thinset was sknning over befor I was finished with this small area while the mastic was still workable.

I would like to use the thinset how can i get more open time after spreading could i use a spray bottle and mist it with water ? what are the draw backs of using the mastic - is it waterproof when cured ?
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Old 07-04-2005, 12:22 PM   #5
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Mist the cbu, not the thinset...the dry cbu sucks moisture out of the thinset. Don't put down more than you can cover in 10 minutes or so. Mix it a little wet, but still hold ridges. Unless you get a special thinset, tile will sag on a wall. Block that first row up well, then use spacers for the rest. Mastic actually works a little better in this case, but with some tile, may take weeks to actually dry and it will turn to mush if it gets wet again. My unprofessional experience.
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Old 07-05-2005, 01:49 AM   #6
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Special thinset ?

Thanks for the info all !
when you talk about special Thinset - you mean modified/latex ? or some othere realy good stuff that only you pros are privy to that thay hide in the courner of the store un-labeled ?

The tile im going to use on the shower and bath is 3/8" thick 6X6 porcilean with 1/8" spacers in a diamond pattern, Is there a best thinset for this heavy tile with real grabbing power ?
If i remeber, the low carb beer mix just wont hold the gut of this project.

I am going to use laticrete roll-on waterproofing in the shower stall for lack of a vapor barier behind the CBU.

Today I laid the floor tile and still made the fire works - it took me 8 hrs to do this - I figured it would take 4 hrs, stopping for food 1 time 1/2 hrs, Bet I would be so fired if I worked for a tile shop! well then again over 50% of the tile were cuts ! happy 4Th all.
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Last edited by Gamegod; 07-05-2005 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:01 AM   #7
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Hi Mike, modified thinset willl work fine, I use white for the walls, easier to clean if you get any on the tile.
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Old 07-07-2005, 01:03 AM   #8
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thanks

Thanks Musky - and all for the info,
my project is back on schedule - tis the only full bath in the house guess I better get started !
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:04 AM   #9
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As to what type of paint to use, an old timer told me to always use oil based in the bathroom and you will never get mold.
I tried it and he was right!
Here in the Pacific Northwest mold is brutal and with the oil based paint I haven't had any in 4 years!
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:59 AM   #10
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Good info

Thanks drivesme, Ill keep that in mind for future use - too late now.
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Old 07-08-2005, 02:33 AM   #11
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The "special" thinsets he was referring to are non-sag mortars. They represent some of the newest technology out there. The sag on wall tiles can be dramatically reduced during installation when they are properly mixed and applied. Custom brand has "MegaLite"; Laticrete has their "255"; PCI has "Nanolight"; and Tec has "3 in 1".
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