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Old 06-14-2004, 03:59 AM   #1
Joeliny
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Island NY
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How to properly apply Durock to Walls and floors?

Hello all,
I need some advice as I have received many different opinions locally from some pros and non pros and am throughly confused.
My project is a bathroom remodel and I need to lay some Durock to install tile and here's where I need help:
1. I want to install tile in the tub area and need to put up durock I see from the past posts I'll need a vapor barrier of felt paper.
The info I got on hanging durrock in the tub area was to apply liquid nails to the studs and hang the durock with roofing nails.
To me this doesnt seem right. Can some one tell me if this acceptable and if not advise me the proper way to do it.
2. I want to tile the floor of the bathroom and have 12"X12" tiles I plan to use. Presently I have a lineolum floor I am going to rip out. My subfloor is not plywood but rather slat board typical of homes like mine built in the early 50's. Here I was told make sure the slats are secured to the joists tightly and if not add screws. I was told to also use liquid nails to set the durock and then screw it down. Now I see many posts where thin set is used to bed the durock, is it proper to use liquid nails as an alternative?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Joe
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Old 06-14-2004, 06:02 AM   #2
bbcamp
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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Joe, stop talking to whoever said to use liquid nails to secure the Durock, they don't have a clue!

All the backerboard companies have instructions for properly installing their products. Your best bet is to read them and follow them to the letter. Most of the manufacturers agree on the installation methods, so there are general rules you can follow.

To summarize:

1) On Walls: Staple the vapor barrier to the studs. Use 15# roofing felt or 6-mill poly sheet. Using backerboard screws or galvanized roofing nails, attach the backerboard to the studs, screwing (or nailing) every 3 to 6 inches along the edges. Make sure all edges are supported by studs or blocking.

2) On Floors: Layout the backerboard so that no more than 3 sheets meet and no seam lines up with a plywood seam. Apply thinset to the plywood with a notched trowel and attach the backerboard to the plywood with backerboard screws or galvanized roofing nails. Screw (or nail) every 3 to 6 inches along the edges and 8 to 12 inches everywhere else. DO NOT screw or nail into the joists, even if you have to alter the screw pattern.

3) On Both Walls and Floors: Use alkli resistant fiberglass cloth tape (CBU tape) and thinset to tape and mud the backerboard seams. You can wait and do this as you tile to avoid "speed bumps" that will be difficult to tile over.


This is a common subject, so if you do a site search, you'll find a lot more to read. However, the best source of information is the manufacturer's instruction sheet or website.

Good Luck!

Bob
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Old 06-14-2004, 04:42 PM   #3
John Bridge
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Welcome aboard, Joe.

I've heard guys on the Internet suggest installing the backer board without the moisture barrier for various reasons, but as Bob said, to be safe it's best to follow the rules. There is no cement backer board manufacturer who presently advises against the membrane.
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