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Old 03-03-2018, 12:36 PM   #16
Redlands Okie
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Shower seat, before or after the pan

Have used tapered cut 1 x 4 s numerous times to help get the pitch correct. Keep in mind the ends at the wall need to be all the same height so that the bottom row of tile are all uncut and same height. Of course the end of the stick at the drain all needs to be the same height also. Each stick will be cut at a different angle and be a different length. Not hard to do. Pull up sticks while the mud is damp and fill in the holes. If the drain location is not in the center of the floor then the floor may have different degrees of slope as you work around the shower but does it really matter.

On surface membrane covered work such as using schluter kerdi we have also done it by setting the top of tapcon screws at the needed height. All screws closer together than the length of your trowel. We just leave the screws in.

Usually use a pool trowel. Makes working on such jobs much easier.

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Old 03-03-2018, 02:27 PM   #17
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You can also use 1/4 inch thick x 1 1/2 inch sticks, kinda like a lattice stick. Go ahead and spread mud around the perimeter and set the lattice stick on the mud the correct height and tap it level. I'm talking about having the 1 1/2 inch side of the stick facing up with mud under it. You can do this all the way around the perimeter. At the drain, tape the top of the drain and cut with a sharp knife any tape that hangs over the edge of the grate. Instead of leaving the grate at the finished height, screw it down a couple turns and make the mud floor flush with the top of the grate. When you are finished mudding the floor, unscrew the grate a couple turns to get it slightly higher than the mud. The thicker the tile, the more you will have to raise the grate. Then the sticks can be removed and filled with mud.

Keep in mind, Rick, The dry pack mud isn't like pouring soupy concrete. It's a damp mix that can be carved.

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