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Old 02-02-2018, 09:49 PM   #31
Canaris
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Thanks for telling me I am about to flip a coin between redguard and kerdi..

You would need a polymer modified thinset...
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Old 02-03-2018, 03:11 PM   #32
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Kerdi and Redguard are two totally different systems. For what it's worth, I would us a 1/4x3/8 trowel.
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Old 02-03-2018, 05:31 PM   #33
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Jay's Guest Bathroom Remodel

I've been asking questions in other threads, but, as I've read, I think I've learned that the etiquette here is a single thread per project....so I'm starting this one now... I've also learned how much everyone here loves pictures, so, here comes the update...

(Thanks for all the advice so far!)

The bathroom is a 5' wide, ~10` long guest/children's bath in an early 1990's home that's never been previously remodeled. The far end of the bathtub is a 5' alcove tub with tile surround. Here's a "before" picture:

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After removing the tile from the far walls, it looked like this (note the greenboard, which was apparently code in the early 1990's):

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After a bit more demo (note the super-sexy seashell sinks that were apparently still popular in the 1990's):

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We found some awesome seafoam green and hot-pink wallpaper (also note the horrible texture job - complete with flat stripes around all the fixtures!):

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And, when we removed the toilet, we found every color the room has ever been painted (so apparently the toilet has not been removed since the 1990's):

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I hung hardibacker (after skim coating all the drywall, and adding a new shower light, and paying a plumber to wrestle in a new tub and drain):

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I removed, resurfaced, and repainted the vanity, and installed a quartz countertop with undermount sinks:

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Just before the vanity was re-installed, I had a little incident where a water valve gave up the ghost and sprayed hot water all over the cement board. The humidity caused the studs to move a bit, and the hardibacker went out of flush. Folks here helped me figure that out:

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...d.php?t=124485

Then I realized I probably had too much of a gap between the hardibacker and the tub. Folks here gave recommendations (I'll come back to this in a minute):

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...d.php?t=124561

Then I primed the hardibacker with 4:1 water:redgard.

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Which brings me to my current question. I'm now attaching redgard seam tape to the bottom of the hardibacker (prior to the full-coat redgard of the entire thing). I burned in some thinset, then applied more thinset with a 1/4x1/4x1/4 notch at about a 45 degree angle, then troweled the seam tape on top of that and thinset a bit over the seam. You can see in the bottom corner of the next image that it doesn't look like the seam tape adhered well (at least not in that corner).

I _think_ I'm going to give it a day to let the thinset cure, then see if the tape peals away too easily. (I'm afraid of laying tile on top of that at the very end of the project, and discovering that the seam tape isn't well bonded to the hardibacker, and the whole bottom row peels off). If it does peel away easily, the question becomes "What next?" Do I try to get more thinset into the corner (if only it peels away)? Do I rip it all out and try something else?

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Thoughts?
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Old 02-03-2018, 05:51 PM   #34
rmckee84
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Usually you want to have your thinset a bit on the loose side when applying stuff like that seam tape. Then where it touches the tub use something like sikaflex or kerdi fix to seal to the tub. Its hard to see exactly what the issue may be with the tape. Air pockets are bad, lumps are bad, and you definitely don't want it loose anywhere. If you find a spot didnt stick, cut it off and put a new piece on.
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:46 PM   #35
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Finally started really tiling today! Slow moving, but learning a lot!

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Old 02-17-2018, 06:22 PM   #36
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Will post a progress picture tomorrow, but I'm making good progress on the shower surround and starting to make plans for the floor.

I'll be flooring with a 2" carrara marble hex mosaic (see here https://www.tileshop.com/product/ham...ks&from=Search) It's mostly white and gray marble.

It will be going over a concrete floor (first floor of the home, built in 1994).

Questions:

1. Do you recommend a ditra underlayment even with small-ish mosaic tiles?
2. If yes, I think I'm supposed to use an unmodified thinset on both sides of the ditra. I'm having a hard time finding white, unmodified thinset locally (I'm in the north Dallas area). Any recommendations?
3. If I can't find the white unmodified, am I better off using gray unmodified or white modified on top of the ditra?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:01 PM   #37
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Jay, I wouldn't use Ditra under your mosaics. If you have cracks in your slab, use Redgard or other paint on membrane. Ditra tends to be slightly wavy after it's installed and your mosaics will follow those waves. If you have no slab cracks, tile right to the slab.

I'd use white modified thinset. Never gray with white marble.
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:26 PM   #38
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Thanks for the guidance, Davy!

Princeton, Texas, huh. I grew up in Bonham - we were in the same football district back in those days....I've made many trips to Princeton and Lake Lavon.
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Old 02-18-2018, 02:07 PM   #39
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I've been to Bonham many times, usually to buy a new truck. Nice country up there.
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Old 02-19-2018, 08:15 PM   #40
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I'm getting close to finished with the shower walls - exciting!

My next quandry is how to finish up.

Here's a picture of my current status from afar:

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If I measure from the top of the top currently-laid tile on the back and right, I get measurements from 12 5/8" (far right) to 13 1/4" (left side of back wall). So, the ceiling isn't exactly level (no surprise).

The tiles are 3 7/8" and I'm using 1/8" spacers (for a nice, even 4" per course).

If I just keep going, I'm going to end up with spaces varying from 5/8" and 1 1/4" after I hang the last full-height row.

Take out the 1/4" that I need for a grout line below the final (tiny) course and the caulk above, and I'm at 3/8" to 1".

This seems far too narrow to work well (for a whole host of reasons).

What are my options here?

Here are things I have thought about:

1. Add a trim row at the top. Use something like this that's not 4" tall (this one is 2", there's a similar 3"). If I use a 2" trim piece, it gets me to a partial row of 2 3/8" to 3". I'm afraid that this option will highlight the un-evenness of the ceiling - but maybe I could "hide" it by filling the space between the top of the trim and the ceiling with joint compound and/or caulk?

2. Cut a standard tile to smaller than 3 7/8" (cutting maybe an inch or two off) the next-to-the-top row to give me a larger final row. This also seems like it will highlight the problem.

3. Use a PVC crown trim piece that has a bottom depth a tad wider than the tile + thinset.

4. Attempt to screed the ceiling down and closer-to-level. (I'm not a master drywaller, and this seems like an advanced maneuver).

Are there options I'm missing or standard practices here?
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Old 02-20-2018, 08:35 AM   #41
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I would vote for screeding the ceiling.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:04 AM   #42
GoRoos
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If I do that, I'm still going to have a very thin (~3/8", assuming I'm able to screed perfectly level at the current lowpoint).

How would you deal with this really "short/skinny" row? Just lay a very skinny row?
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:23 AM   #43
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Your situations shows the importance of layout planning. Either go with the small cut or the pvc crown. Another idea would be level out the ceiling and find a pencil or listello that would fit.
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Old 02-20-2018, 11:34 AM   #44
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Yep, what Ryan said. It's best to check for this when you are 8-10 rows lower than you are now. You could have increased the joint size by 1/32 and no one would have ever noticed.

Another option would be to tile the ceiling.
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Old 02-20-2018, 12:08 PM   #45
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Yep. Lesson learned on the layout planning. I had that sinking feeling in the pit of my stomach when I looked up and realized how close I was to the top and didn't have a plan....but at that point, 8 rows of tile had been curing for about 30 hours. To make it even more frustrating, I had picked up a set of wedge spacers the day before hanging those 8 rows, just for this.

Yet another one on the long list of reasons you all are pros and I'm not
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