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Old 02-03-2018, 10:26 AM   #1
jls667
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Durock shower drain question

Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of installing a Durock shower system with my bathroom remodel. I'm about to lay a thin layer of Henry Liquid Backerboard to level everything. I don't have the Durock shower tray yet, but it should be coming this week. However I do have the Durock shower drain and just dry fitted it to see how high it stuck out of the drain.

The drain flange sat about 2.5" off of the plywood subfloor. This seems really high to me. Should it rest lower so it will sit on the pan better or will this magically fit? If not, what are my options?

I already have 2 layers of 23/32 set, so lowering the waste pipe isn't an option as it sits just below the first layer of plywood. Should I see if i can somehow get a different connection piece between the drain flange and the waste pipe? Maybe something that will fit inside the waste pipe and flange so it'll allow to flange to fall where it should?

Or should I raise that floor where the shower is? I have some left over Durock Foam tile backer board so I can maybe use that to raise it, which would be really easy and light.

Any thoughts or insights would be really appreciated!
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:36 AM   #2
wwhitney
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Reducing the height of the vertical riser between the drain and the trap inlet is likely the best option, even if that means pulling up some plywood to do so.

I'm envisioning plastic DWV plumbing (ABS or PVC), a plastic hub on the bottom of the Durock drain for a solvent crement connection, and a trap with a stub up of pipe installed in the inlet. If that is all correct, then if that trap is low enough, you just need to cut that pipe stub up shorter. You are limited only by the need for enough exposed pipe on the stup up to mate with the Durock drain hub. You may be able to effect that cut via an internal pipe cutter without pulling up plywood.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:12 PM   #3
jls667
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Henry 554 Levelpro mistake

I just put down Henry's 554 Levelpro Primer on my plywood subfloor. Only issue is the bottle didn't have instructions on it. So I watched all the videos I could and it looked easy enough, so I went at it.

Problem: I accidentally followed the concrete instructions, not the wood floor ones, and diluted it with 1qt of water when I should have done it at full strength.

Where do I go from here? I called WW Henry but they're closed for the weekend and I planned on putting down Liquid BackerBoard tomorrow morning.

Will the dilution cause me any issues with the wood or only cause the primer to not be strong enough? Should I just wait past it's 24 window to lay the liquid backerboard and then do it right at full strength? Or will it not be an issue and is not worth worrying about?

I'm kicking myself since I was able to get to this point so well, having taken my time on the remodel and making few mistakes only to do something this brainless.

Thanks everyone.
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Last edited by jls667; 02-03-2018 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:24 PM   #4
wwhitney
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I suggest waiting to figure out how you are going to resolve your drain height issue before you put down any self-leveler on your plywood. The drain height won't magically resolve itself.

The mods will likely combine this thread with your other thread, as they are the same project.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:39 PM   #5
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PS Have you read the Durock Shower System installation instructions? It looks like their drain needs a square hole in the floor so that part of the body is recessed into the subfloor. I couldn't find any dimensions on their drain assembly or tray, so you may need to wait until you have the tray to determine the final elevations.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 02-03-2018, 12:52 PM   #6
jls667
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I must have read the instructions online and watched videos 100 times. I even read over what they sent me which was what they have online. But there was a paper that had my exact answer that I disregarded because I thought it was some ad or registration info or something else.

Good grief I'm having a rough weekend and I didn't accomplish a single thing. I'm going to hang it up for the next couple of days, watch some football, collect myself and re-attack next week before I screw something up.

Thanks for your patience. I swear I'm normally fairly good with this stuff but I just had a rapid succession of brain farts since I woke up....if only I had a hangover to blame it on.
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Old 02-03-2018, 01:06 PM   #7
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I went ahead and merged your threads. We try and keep a project to one thread. If you ever need to change the title just let us know.
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Old 02-04-2018, 09:59 PM   #8
renue74
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I installed my Durock Shower system about a month ago in a new addition.

When the plumber roughed in the drain pipe, I had measured where the Durock drain would be and traced the square hole.

Of course, plumber ignored that and just cut a 3" hole and ran the PVC drain pipe in that. (At least his hole was in my square.)

It was about 3" proud of the subfloor.

When I finally got around to installing the Durock drain, I cut the square out of the subfloor and had to cut about 5" off the original PVC drain pipe to make sure the durock drain set flush with the styrofoam pan.

It was sorta of trial and error...as I would cut the pipe flush with the subfloor and then try to fit the drain...then cut a little more, etc.

I made a paper template....basically taped paper to the outside radius of the drain pipe and used a sharpie pen to mark my cut line.

Then remove the paper template and use my Milwaukee "dremel" tool to cut along the sharpie line.

After a few cuts, I got the drain down to where the durock drain and foam pan fit fine.

Then, prepped and glued up the pipe.

Worked fine...but stressful for me since I didn't want to cut too much of the drain pipe off and it not reach the durock drain assembly. I know that "could" be fixed, but I much rather do it right the first time.
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:21 AM   #9
jls667
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Durock shower pan help

Hi everyone,

I need any help i can get. I'm using the Durock shower system (similar to Kerdi) and I sealed up the joints and pan yesterday. I went to check it today and when i was cleaning up bits of dried mortar in the pan i noticed one part of the pan liner was loose. I pulled it a bit and the whole damn thing came off with total ease. I was practically picking a piece of paper off the floor. There was little to no adhesion whatsoever.

Most of the mortar underneath wasn't fully cured but the thing just came right off. I'm telling you, there was no resistance to me pulling for the thinset. The rest of the shower seems solid but now I have a foam tray covered in semi-cured mortar.

I'm not sure what happened but my guess is that the mortar lost it's grip sitting in the bucket. The whole thing took me longer than I expected and the thinset sat in the bucket as I kept working for about 3-4 hours before I got the pan liner, which is one of the last parts.

I used un-modified mortar as they suggested.

What are my options? Do I just let the pan fully dry then reapply? I have plenty of the Durock liner so there is no issue cutting a new piece and applying new thinset.

Again, any help is appreciated.
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Old 02-11-2018, 02:10 PM   #10
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I suspect you're correct about the mortar being too dry. You want it as wet as possible, but still able to hold a notch. And once the mortar is down, don't stop to use the bathroom, smoke a cigarette, or fix yourself a drink. Cover it right then.

I would very carefully try to scrape off the old mortar, as much as possible, without damaging the foam tray. A damp sponge with warm water might help loosen it up if it's still wet. Then get everything ready and put a clean sheet down. If you had no adhesion to the sheet you put down, it may be clean enough to reuse.

FYI, the pot life on most thinset mortars is two hours, give or take.
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Old 02-11-2018, 02:13 PM   #11
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Also, Jim, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place.
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