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Old 12-03-2017, 12:13 PM   #16
Redlands Okie
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Lots of great information on this forum. Keeping in mind that your probably spending a lot of money and effort on your project. Trying to save a bit of work or money here or there could put everything you have done at risk with poor finished results later. It is incredibly disappointing at the end of a project to realize just a bit more work here or there could have prevented issues.
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:42 PM   #17
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I appreciate all the responses thus far.

You people and the ditra handbook have probably convinced me to add some ply. It's curious to me that ditra xl is speced for 3/4" osb over 24" joists but the regular isn't when neither really add any structure.

I wish i would have read the handbook rather than just watching a couple videos before purchasing and i might have went with the xl. I think it's about the same cost to just add ply at this point.

Am I asking for failure if I just go with the ditra and skip the ply?

Advice on products or techniques transitioning from a ~1.5" floor to carpet? My thought there would be to leave a sill of plywood in the doorway and but a reducer up to the tile with a small lip that the carpet could be tucked under.

Do they make toilet flange extenders that big? Mine stick up about 3/8ths from the subfloor.

Thus far the only progress is making a ton of dust with a flap wheel to get the rest of the crap off the floor. I'll put in some more screws today.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:03 PM   #18
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Screws are good. But make sure youíre using deck type screws with a smooth sleeve at the top to prevent screw jacking. Before doing second layer ply ask more questions.

Type of ply
Orientation
Placement
Gaps
Fasteners type, spacing, depth
Schluter tech support

Donít mean to leave you hanging but gotta run. Above will give you ideas on Qís and advice to request
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Old 12-05-2017, 12:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Topspin Screws are good. But make sure youíre using deck type screws with a smooth sleeve at the top to prevent screw jacking. Before doing second layer ply ask more questions.

Type of ply
Orientation
Placement
Gaps
Fasteners type, spacing, depth
Schluter tech support

Donít mean to leave you hanging but gotta run. Above will give you ideas on Qís and advice to request
Thanks,
I found a spot of drywall that needed to be fixed in the ceiling below and poked a hole big enough to see a little bit of what was going on. There are 18" trusses. I couldn't get a good view of any additional blocking or anything but i could maybe stick a go pro with a light up there.

The box stores close by look like they have 2" star flathead deck screws with the trusses these won't penetrate too far. Will probably predrill with a countersinking bit as this subfloor is darn hard.

Schluter has most of the info you told me to ask in their manual.
exposure one at least 3/8ths exterior grade plywood or osb
perp to joists offset from subfloor joints I'll also plan to have the tile joints offset from the floor joints as well.
1/4" by walls, 1/8 between sheets
they didn't have much on type of fasteners but I imagine something alkali resistant I'll look in to that more. Brass finish or something?
but 4 edge 6 field only in to the subfloor not the joists
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:04 PM   #20
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Sounds like youíre all over it! Youíre way ahead of the pack. Amazing what manufacturer specifications/recommendations can do for people. Too bad most people donít put in the time and effort you have. Youíre on the right track.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:17 PM   #21
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The challenges of acquiring plywood when one does not have a pickup is certainly frustrating. I don't really want to bother my friends "Hey i haven't talked to you in a while but you have a truck come help me"

HD has truck rental but only had 3/8" BCX lowes has nice half inch ACX but no truck tried to get the truck from HD and go to lowes but they didn't have trucks left...

Put in a few more screws and finished getting things cleaned up. I'll post some progress pics once i get plywood transport accomplished and things moving a bit.

The subsequent rooms should move a hell of a lot faster with everything on hand.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:45 PM   #22
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Not sure where you're located but if there are any smaller lumber yards around try them. Many times they have cheap delivery fees within a certain distance.
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:41 PM   #23
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little bit of movement,
Sub floor cleaned up better I did a little bit more sanding and replaced the small patches that were there after this pic.

1/2 acx cut spaced and predrilled with a countersink bit (only drilled the 1/2 not the sub)

screws installed. You can see a spot near the seam where a couple screws stripped out. I got two more in there but do i fill the holes with henrys floor patch or just leave them? How about any of the screws that got sunk a little too deep?

Of course we have to throw the tile down and play with layout. Without cutting any this is what i got. I am not sure what order I would lay this in. It lines up real nice starting with the top right corner but then i would play contortionist a bit to get behind the terlet and under the counter. With this layout I end up with a half row behind the toilet and the toilet hole nearly centered to one side of a tile.

What would be the best tile to lay first and what order from there?

and then there is this space under the counter. So i could make the space from opposing wall 3/8ths and up the grout line to 3/16ths and i would be close to only a half inch gap. Or slap a nice stained oak kickerboard on the vanity?

I kind of don't like these tiny little eight inch spacers with the profile on these tiles it's tuff to get them in there right. It wants to grab a rounded part of the spacer. I also think i prefer the orange sit on top t type spacers i used around the walls.

Thanks for steering me this direction folks. The plywood is almost pretty enough to just stain it and is a much nicer surface.
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:54 PM   #24
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No need to fill screw holes.
Dry lay, do your cuts, and start at the tub and lay your way out.
Get a kickboard or quarter round to cover gap.
I like horseshoe spacers.
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:18 PM   #25
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tiles dryfit and cut, not a bad terlet hole for my first attempt with a $30 grinder and a $11 blade. I did get a couple little chips but that was user error lifting the blade too vertical.

ditra layed mapei ultraflex with a 1/4x3/16 v notch trowel and embeded with a grout float. Only needed a quarter bag of thinset for this... good thing i got 3 bags.

rubi tile leveling system, i think i might have went a little overkill on the levelers but it's nice and flat, the caps slide all the way across the floor every way i've tried. kerabond t medium bed and a 1/2 u notch. This used almost a full bag.

Cleaned up a little. I definitely got the hang of keeping my margins a little cleaner by the second half of putting it down.

The sill seal was helpful in keeping it clean and not filling in my movement joints. I cut the tile with hard spacers fit pretty tight and then installed with the sill seal, this worked out pretty well to give the tiles a little extra wiggle room.

My test board is pretty sturdy and my transition piece is the same height as the final floor yay!

Now to try my hand at grouting. I'm looking at Mapei Ultracolor plus FA in charcoal. is that baggable? It seems to me bagging would be a lot cleaner considering the small area of grout joints to the area of tile. Any other suggestions or tips?
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:25 PM   #26
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Nice job. I recently used the Rubi system myself. It does work and helps out so much with large-format tiles. I also love working with Ditra.
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Old 12-21-2017, 05:59 PM   #27
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There's really no reason I can see to use a grout bag with your situation. If you don't pack the grout properly into the joints you will have issues with it over time. Just grab a grout float and go the normal route. It will take you less time doing it with a float and you'll know the grout lines are full.
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:40 PM   #28
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Gotcha, the whole notion of smearing grout all over your nice new tile always seemed a bit absurd to me. The thought was to use both the bag and float but i guess it's just kinda going to get all over anyway.
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:17 PM   #29
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Your squeezing hand will thank you for using a float.
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:39 PM   #30
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One down time for round two.

Hmm my other pic doesnt want to upload. Next is laundry room already removed vinyl, ground all the crud off the floor, painted and started cutting plywood. Should be able to bang this one out in just a couple days as opposed to the month this first one took.
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