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Old 12-17-2017, 02:21 PM   #16
rmckee84
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Good question, as long as you get a minimum of 3/4" of mud under your drain you'll be good to go.
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Old 12-17-2017, 03:19 PM   #17
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3/4" min per whom? Schluter says 1"
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:09 PM   #18
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John, I think Ryan is referring to the tile industry standards where there is no application for deck mud over wood framed floors that requires less than 3/4" thickness. Depending upon what you have for subflooring and support at the drain area, you may need even more than that and if the manufacturer calls for a 1" thickness I think I'd wanna honor that. As I recall, they initially called for a minimum of 1 1/4" thickness in that application.

I think the shims you asked about are (or usta be) closer to 5/8ths" thick and were primarily to match the thickness of the foam shower tray insert thickness at the drain. Could be different now. I've not seen one of those floor kits for some time.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:13 PM   #19
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Yea, its just weird that the manufacturer says min 1" over wood subfloors and provides shims that dont provide this.... plus they even show a picture positioning the drain over wood subfloor with these shims in the directions.


One other question, whats your guys usual approach to floor underlayment and waterproofing (if any) outside of the shower? I'm most concerned about any casual water on the floor just outside of the shower. Am thinking most of this will be readily resisted by the tile, but am curious if you guys are applying redguard or hydrobarrier or other on the underlayment. There seems to be so much conflicting info out there, so maybe there's no great answer.
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:28 PM   #20
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Unless you regularly have lots of water on the floor outside of the shower, it doesn't really need to have anything done to it. Think of a shower floor/pan, though, all of the shower water eventually flows over it...maybe hundreds of gallons a day. Compare that to maybe a few ounces...it will dry up on its own, even if you don't wipe it up.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:53 PM   #21
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As usual when discussing Kerdi/ ditra and thinset we must also remind peoplebhow thinset attaches to fleece. It attaches the same way as it does to tile. By growing crystals.

Travis, that is a very good idea!
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:56 AM   #22
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Hi there, continuing on this project and I think the forum rules are that i keep posting in this thread?

Anyway, I have additional questions regarding floor flatness to potentially accept 12x24 ceramic. I read through the SLC reference library thread and think I understand what to do, but want to be sure.

Setup is: an approximately 8'x10' area with 3/4" plywood subfloor, 2x12's @16" oc (span is good). The room abuts 3/4" hardwood and as such, i was thinking of using 1/4" CBU to keep a flush transition.

I have one 2' x 3' area that is bowled down to about 1/8". I believe this violates the 1/16" in 2' rule and I have to do something about it. My rough plan is to lay the 1/4" CBU and then use a SLC feathered out. I can get Customs Level Lite locally. In reading the directions for Level Lite, they dont specifically say it can be installed over CBU. Can i assume that I prime the CBU area and pour SLC on top? Any thoughts are appreciated.

Also, what are your guy's preferred method of testing for flatness? My method was by pulling a string across the floor from the high point. Am curious if you're using 10' straight edges.
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:48 AM   #23
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John, at one time I could tell you what the spacers were for, but I've never used them. Foam pan perhaps?

In any case, I usually shoot for 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" mud at drain and figure perimeter accordingly.
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Old 02-24-2018, 12:38 PM   #24
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Note, the floor I refer to regarding flatness is the main floor of the bathroom. Not the shower pan.
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Old 02-24-2018, 03:15 PM   #25
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Hi John, it depends on the size of the room. In an 8x10 room, a 5 or 6 ft straight edge is what I would use. Crawl around and check it out, marking the low spots. I would make sure the plywood is screwed down well and clean, then do any leveling on the plywood before putting down the CBU. Then make sure to apply thinset under the CBU along with necessary screws. The flatter you get the floor, the less grief you'll have during installation.

Also, Which ever leveler you use, I wouldn't trust it to self level. I would push it around with a trowel then pull a straight edge over it to screed it flat.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:23 PM   #26
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Are you saying to apply a SLC to the plywood? Or get out a planer? I thought that the only way of SLC on plywood is to install wire mesh lathe and without feathering....which would build up my floor quite a bit from what i understand. Was thinking that SLC on the CBU would be easier to fill in a relatively smaller low spot.
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:41 PM   #27
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Well, I was reading the data sheet on the product, https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-107.pdf
and it mentioned that you could go from a featheredge to 2 inches in one pour. I assumed you could do that over plywood as long as it was primed but they don't state it clearly. It might be worth a call to Customs to see what they think is best.

Someone else might chime in that uses this product more than I do. Hang tight.
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Old 02-24-2018, 09:02 PM   #28
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The datasheet also says that over ply or osb, you MUST use lath fastened every 6"...so, running it to a feather edge would seem to not be possible and would require a thicker layer to cover that lath.

There are some patching compounds that can be installed without lath, and since you do not plan to cover the entire surface, one of those would seem to be a better choice.

It's not generally a great idea to drive nails or screws through SLC.
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Old 02-24-2018, 09:40 PM   #29
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What about using a medium bed mortar like Custom's LFT Versa Bond mortar on top of the CBU and screeded flat? I did some more mapping (got an 8' straight edge) and it looks like just one joist warped slightly low of the others, so again it'd be a rectangular shaped area to fill from feather to 1/8".

Ardex Feather Finish is one that looks like it could work well over CBU in this case. Trowelable to feather. http://www.ardexamericas.com/en-us/D...therFinish.pdf

Surely this happens on almost every elevated subfloor with lumber joists. I am surprised that there's not a more established way to deal with localized low spots. I see no mention of flattening in Tile Your World unfortunately.

Am tempted to cut out the subfloor and fenagle a new piece in, but adding a bunch of panel joints may be just as bad.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:31 PM   #30
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Ardex's Liquid Backerboard is designed for this use over plywood or osb. There are probably others. While people use thinset, it is not designed for that use and can lead to problems if applied too thick. Your house, your choice.
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