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Old 11-23-2017, 12:44 PM   #1
diyEngineer
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My First Bathroom remodel Help!! (ceramic tile)

Hello, I new to the forums. I just got finished tiling my shower walls and now it is time to tackle the floor. My floor is very out of level so when I installed the tub I was left with a 1 inch gap at the far end (exterior wall) I need to lay ceramic but I believe it will only cover 3/8" of the gap. I figured I need SLC to help. The floor is 25 sqft. I picked up two bags of LevelQuik and primer

My questions:
1. If I raise the floor 3/4" on the low side what happens at the door? I still will have carpet in the Bedroom. Do I need to do a transition or a "ramp"?

2. In the Liberry I read about the foam tape. My understanding is this goes around the parameter of the room. What about the tall side 3/4" do I stack it? What about at the tub?

3. Are there any precautions to take around the toilet flange?

4. Tools: I found a rubber squeegee on broom handle and a hand held aluminum concrete float at my big box. Will this tools work ?

5. Feet: I don't what to buy cleats or aeration shoe covers. Would shoes be fine or going barefoot?

Any other help would be great. I don't know what I don't know.
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Old 11-23-2017, 01:20 PM   #2
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1. You need to dam the doorway and you'll probably end up with an oddly sloped transition (higher at the left side of the door than the right). You'll probably need a transition strip of some sort.

2. You can stack the tape, or you can use wider foam tape (say 1"). Any small amount of SLC that might leak between the pieces of tape in a stack shouldn't matter.

3. You'll need to use foam tape around the flange. Ideally, you want the bottom of the flange disk to be at the height of your finished floor. It looks like your flange will be lower than that so you should look into either raising the flange, or using extended flange seals (wax rings, foam seals, etc.).

4. I used a large squeegee on a broom handle when I poured SLC and it worked fine. You're really just trying to help the SLC flow evenly, rather than using the tool to make things level.

5. It looks like your room is small enough that you could pour the entire thing from the doorway. I poured my entire 9'x7' bathroom while standing in the bathtub. I mixed, poured, and spread with the squeegee without ever leaving the tub.

Be aware that you need to achieve a minimum thickness of about 1/8" with SLC in order for it to flow and level properly. It's best to have too much SLC available and end up with it a bit thicker than planned versus not having enough resulting in a non-level floor.

Use a helper, use cold water, get everything prepped before you mix anything, use multiple buckets with water level marks, work fast, and keep pouring until you achieve a flat floor of the height you want.
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:03 AM   #3
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1 inch thick SLC and expansion joint

Do not go bare foot or sockets etc. The cement / lime in the product is rough on bare flesh. Who knows on the rest of the chemicals.
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Old 11-24-2017, 07:02 AM   #4
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You can buy a ramp to put under your carpet or make one out of wide cedar shingles:

http://www.carpetshims.com/
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Old 11-24-2017, 09:32 AM   #5
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Thank you for the advice.
@JerseyDIYguy did you say in the tub till the floor dried?

@RichVT thanks for the link for the shims.
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Old 11-24-2017, 10:03 AM   #6
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Depending on the shape (flatness, pitch) of the existing floor, it may be possible to establish a new flat plane that raises the floor the requisite amount (1/2"?) at the tub corner but doesn't raise the floor at the doorway. This plane wouldn't necessarily be level, so using SLC might not work very well, but if it is possible it would require less patching material.

Just an option that could be considered. You'd need to map out the the existing floor surface to see if such a solution exists.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:07 AM   #7
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Wayne,

What material could be used to do the pitching?
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:27 AM   #8
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I'm the wrong person to ask as my experience is limited. When I've had smaller areas of concrete to true up, I've used Cement All, as it is readily available locally, but it sets up really fast, faster than I'd like. I've seen Mapei Planipatch mentioned here but I've never used it. And I've never used SLC, but I've read that it can be very thick and not so self-leveling, so perhaps it can be used to provide a slightly out-of-level plane, maybe mixing with a little less water than normal if necessary. Not sure about that last idea.

If you are interested in this option, I would say that the first questions are: is the concrete at the doorway straight? If so, then the line of the slab at the existing doorway plus the corner point at the tub 1/2" above the current slab defines a plane. Is the entire existing slab lower than that plane? If so then the idea is feasible. If not, you'd have to raise your plane further as required; if you end up close to level anyway, then you might as well just go for level.

Cheers, Wayne
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Old 11-25-2017, 09:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
@JerseyDIYguy did you say in the tub till the floor dried?
Fortunately, the tub is only about 35" from the door so I was able to stand on the edge of the tub and take a single long step out of the bathroom.
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:25 AM   #10
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Question It's level now.... Should I use silicone now?

First thank you again for your responses. They gave me the confidence and I made the pour. It came out level, smooth and raised the floor just high enough. It was surprisingly straight forward.

I used the foam strips and stacked them two high on the lowest spots. I have removed as much of the foam I can buy hand. I will get a chisel and remove more. 1. Do I now fill the gap with silicone? If so, is there a better type or brand? Should the gap be completely filled? This could take many tubes.

The vanity sits in the corner and now there is a gap on the right side and the vanity will rock. 2. Should I use a flow patch to fill the gap on that side or thinset or something else? I know It gets screwed to the wall I just want the best support.

By the door. 3. Do I just tile up to the nailing strip or should I keep them back a fraction of an inch?
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Old 12-01-2017, 12:11 PM   #11
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Noticed picture upload didn't work. here they are
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:48 AM   #12
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Question My First Bathroom remodel Help!! (ceramic tile)

Just level my floor with Self Leveling Compound (LevelQuick). It turn out great! Not as bad as a I thought it would be.

I used the foam strips and stacked them two high on the lowest spots. Since I needed to raise the floor 3/4" on the low side. I have removed as much of the foam I can buy hand. I will get a chisel and remove more. 1. Do I now fill the gap with silicone? If so, is there a better type or brand? Should the gap be completely filled? This could take many tubes.

The vanity sits in the corner and now there is a gap on the right side and the vanity will rock. 2. Should I use a simpleprep floor patch to fill the gap on that side or thinset or something else? I know It gets screwed to the wall I just want the best support.

By the door. 3. Do I just tile up to the nailing strip or should I keep them back a fraction of an inch?
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Old 12-03-2017, 08:45 AM   #13
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Ricardo, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated, and the history is in one place.

I probably would have used something a little narrower to get the SLC closer to the tub, about 1/4". Maybe it's that close and I just can't tell from the picture, but it looks to be about 3/4".

Anyway, no need to fill the gap around the perimeter, but along the tub if you have more than 1/4" wide gap you'll have some of it filled to support the edge of the tile. Maintain at least 1/4" gap, though.

I'd just shim the vanity to support it.

Depending on the thickness of the carpet, there's a gap left between the tile and tack strip. I usually left about 3/16" there, if your carpet is thicker you might have to leave more. The edge of the carpet has to be forced into that gap.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:55 AM   #14
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Thank you for your reply Kevin,

I made a new thread because my original title sucked and it seemed like people were not opening the thread which in turn means I am not getting help. I really needed some guidance since I am off work tomorrow and would like to finish the floor.

I used 3/4" wide by 1/2" thick tape since the low spot was 1" low. This allowed me to double stack them to get the needed height. So all around is at least 3/4" gap between the SLC and wall. At the tub what should I fill my gap with?

Does rest not need supporting because most of the edge will be covered by trim? My trim is only 1/2", I will have to add a 1/4 Filler all around just so I can get grout lines to be under the trim. What about water on the floor collecting in the large gaps?

The bottom of the vanity has is just the ply thickness. It falls in the gap or leave the one side unsupported by the floor. Is that ok?
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:03 AM   #15
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Ricardo, any moderator can change the title of your thread to something more generic any time you'd like to suggest one.
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