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Old 09-24-2017, 03:09 AM   #16
Tool Guy - Kg
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Right on!
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:04 AM   #17
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Oh darn, looked at it again and realized its not Adesilex. It just says tile and glass mortar. Here's a link. Should be fine, right?
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:46 PM   #18
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That'll work, I prefer laticrete GTA but that works fine too.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:10 PM   #19
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Alright, so, since these are smaller tiles I should technically use a smaller notched trowe, right? Except wouldn’t that make them be out of line with my larger tiles? Hmmm!
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:51 PM   #20
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What you want to do with glass tile is after you notch the thinset, essentially flatten the ridges with the trowel so there are no ridges to telegraph through. You want to pay particular attention to trying to ensure 100% coverage. Or, if you use one of the slant-notch trowels, the ridges literally fall over.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:50 PM   #21
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To give you an idea about drying of a latex-modified thinset underneath an impervious tile, Schluter did a test with a large format tile (essentially, a piece of clear glass). Because they could see through the 'tile', they could tell from the coloration when it dried out in the middle. It literally took over 3-months, and that was before it was grouted, which would have slowed it more. Until the mortar's modifiers (at least with latex) dry, they don't properly coalesce and achieve their full strength or stability. A small, glass mosaic will allow things to dry much faster than one very large tile since the distance from an edge is so much smaller. And, as I said, not all modifiers need to dry to provide their full strength and become stable, but latex based ones are not one of them. Some achieve full strength without drying. The Schulter one is one of them. Rapid setting thinsets, generally are also good...others, you'd have to know the actual stuff it's made of, and that's not always obvious.

The cement in the mortar will cure in about the same time, give or take a bit, but it is the modifiers that also need to become stable that is critical. Cement may only compose 50% of the mortar's mix, again, give or take a bit...the rest is either modifiers or inert things like sand.
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Old 09-25-2017, 01:38 PM   #22
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Very interesting, thank you! Do I have to screed the wall before I put the glass tiles on since they are the same thickness as the regular tiles but require a smaller notch? Or do I just use the same notched trowel as I did for the bigger tiles?
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:44 PM   #23
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To be fair, I don't do this much, but I talk to lots of people, so take this with a grain of salt. I'd use the same trowel, then flatten the notches, then set the tile. Essentially, it should keep the tile at the same level as the surrounding ones IF you've set them properly. When setting a tile, two things are critical...getting as close to 100% coverage as possible, and keeping the spacing and plain so they are all even with minimal to no lippage. With smaller mosaics, you probably want to use something like a grout float to press them into place, otherwise, if you do it by hand, with all of the smaller pieces, things tend to get wavy. If the glass is at all translucent, if you have good lighting, you'll be able to see when you've embedded them well.

Notching the mortar produces an even coat, which allows you to keep things properly aligned once bedded. To achieve 100% coverage (or as close as you can get), you will have spread all of those notches out even so the depth is consistent...with a small mosaic, especially glass, it tends to work best if you flatten them first. When setting a larger tile, you wiggle it back and forth across those notches, flattening them in the process and spreading the thinset into a single, even layer. It's impossible to tell when doing this to a solid tile (well, you can peel it back up to check coverage once in awhile and that is a good practice), but you can't tell directly by seeing through the tile. You can with a glass tile. If the tile was clear, it would be very obvious if there was an air bubble, or void somewhere underneath.

It is critical to only spread your notches one way, otherwise, you won't leave a path for air to escape when collapsing the mortar ridges during the setting process which promotes voids.
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:36 PM   #24
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Thanks! Ok, guess I’ll use the same trowel and flatten it then. Hopefully not a lot of thinset gets in the cracks. If some does, how can I make sure to clean them out before grouting further down the line?
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Old 09-26-2017, 02:22 PM   #25
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:51 AM   #26
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I’m really freaked out doing the mosaics lol. The tiles aren’t bad but these are just so pretty I don’t want to mess ‘em up! Hopefully I don’t end up with mortar oozing out or different depths between the mosaic and regular tile.
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Old 10-04-2017, 05:01 PM   #27
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Uh, do you guys know where to purchase a 3/16"x3/16" v-notch trowel? That's what my mosaic tile calls for. I cant find it anywhere. I'm not even sure it exists; if its just a notch doesnt the notch have to be the same on either side?
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Old 10-04-2017, 05:37 PM   #28
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Any of the big box stores should have them. Not sure what you're asking about both sides? 3/16x3/16 means depth x width
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Old 10-04-2017, 06:25 PM   #29
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That makes sense, I feel like an idiot. I also feel like I’m taking crazy pills; none of the stores I’ve searched have 3/16”x3/16”. They have every other combination of 3/16” though.
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Old 10-05-2017, 12:34 PM   #30
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I contacted the manufacturer and they are gonna look into an alternative trowel size and get back to me. I’ve checked everywhere. At this point I’m just going to get whatever is closest to that size since as far as I can tell it just doesn’t exist.
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