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Old 10-26-2017, 07:49 PM   #61
Kman
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Half a bag of thinset wasted, right here:

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Old 10-26-2017, 08:27 PM   #62
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1) are these installers the same hacks that did the first shower?
2)Is there a piece of the membrane tying together the curb to the wall,can not see it in the pitcher. All seams need to be overlapped by at least 2 inches.
3) was the pan set very level? The pitcher looks like it is sloping. Check to make sure you have 1/4 inch per foot slope to th drain from all directions.
4)does the curb slope in towards the drain? If they tell you they will slope the tile while thinsetting them I would tell them to pack up their tools and not come back.The slope should be done BEFORE the membrane goes on. Same with the bottom shelf of the niche. If not water will seep thru the grout and just sit there or run backwardsif slighly sloped back the wrong way.

And as i mentioned in an earlier post and someone else recently I would make them do a flood test. The longer the better.
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Old 10-26-2017, 09:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
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1) are these installers the same hacks that did the first shower?
2)Is there a piece of the membrane tying together the curb to the wall,can not see it in the pitcher. All seams need to be overlapped by at least 2 inches.
3) was the pan set very level? The pitcher looks like it is sloping. Check to make sure you have 1/4 inch per foot slope to th drain from all directions.
4)does the curb slope in towards the drain? If they tell you they will slope the tile while thinsetting them I would tell them to pack up their tools and not come back.The slope should be done BEFORE the membrane goes on. Same with the bottom shelf of the niche. If not water will seep thru the grout and just sit there or run backwardsif slighly sloped back the wrong way.

And as i mentioned in an earlier post and someone else recently I would make them do a flood test. The longer the better.
1) yes, it's the same company but apparently the original installer is no longer with them

2) not yet, I had them stop at 6pm on the first prep day and they hadn't done any corners or floor yet

3) , it appeared to be set level, standby for a test tomorrow

4) I'll take a look at the curb slope tomorrow too

In the meantime, more pics. It appears the side pieces overlap by 2". The pieces on the rear wall only overlap by 1".

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Last edited by jgleason; 10-29-2017 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 10-27-2017, 06:31 PM   #64
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The curb has no preslope and the niche is actually sloped towards the wall. The floor is well sloped since it is the prefab tray set on fairly level concrete. Since the job was paused with thinset over the kerdi on the walls/floor corner can the floor piece and corners be installed or does the thinset need to be cleaned to get the proper bond?

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Old 10-27-2017, 07:52 PM   #65
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Thinset will stick to thinset, but the bigger question is how much is there between the sheets on the seams? That cannot be a huge amount. A thick layer of thinset may mean trying to keep the tile perfectly in the desired plane may be tough to impossible and could allow some moisture to wick much further than if the sheets were closer together with the 'proper' amount of thinset. I was told in the class that it is the fleece's fibers on the two sheets that are close to each other are what disrupt the seepage of moisture, and make the seam waterproof.
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:21 PM   #66
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Obviously these guys do not know how to do it correctly. They have made numerous and critical mistakes. Why are you letting them continue?
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Old 10-28-2017, 08:52 PM   #67
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Obviously these guys do not know how to do it correctly. They have made numerous and critical mistakes. Why are you letting them continue?
I guess work received is worth price paid. These are the subcontractors the builder uses and are doing the work under warranty

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Old 10-29-2017, 09:07 AM   #68
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WOW! I am done,speechless.
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:29 AM   #69
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So, keep on rewarding poor workmanship and lack of industry knowledge? Couldn't do it right the first time so I will give you a second chance to screw it up. Sounds about right.
*triggered
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Old 10-29-2017, 11:57 AM   #70
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Ken, what kind of warranty are they giving you on this shower? A shower should last at least 20 years. I'm just wondering if that conversation has come up. Quite often, I tear out showers that are properly built that are 60 years old and still holding up fine.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:39 PM   #71
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So, keep on rewarding poor workmanship and lack of industry knowledge? Couldn't do it right the first time so I will give you a second chance to screw it up. Sounds about right.
*triggered
They're not getting paid by me, I guess DR Horton or Sherwin Williams should look at their internal values to see how much rebuilding multiple times is worth.

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Old 10-29-2017, 06:59 PM   #72
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You really need to think about Davy's question. It is possible for them to build this, and the shower not appear to leak for some time. But interior spaces, walls, floors and other parts of your house can be sustaining damage without outward appearance.

A slow leak can run along the inside of your walls around the edges of the room and puddle and damage other parts of your home.
The poorly built shower in our new home was leaking, and water was running along the underside of our baseboards around the entire bathroom till it ruined the carpet in a closet and our bedroom. We didn't notice for some time because of furniture and closet layout. By the time we noticed the water it had been leaking for some time.
Mold and mildew are not fun to deal with.
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Old 10-29-2017, 07:18 PM   #73
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I'm working on a shower now that had been slowly leaking for a long time. Behind the tiles was a big mess. We replaced all the studs and insulation around the shower. Black mold, Termites and roaches were everywhere when we busted the walls open.

We've talked about it here before. When you compare your shower to your roof, your shower receives hundreds of times more water. It needs to be done right.
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Old 10-30-2017, 09:12 PM   #74
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The big tract home builders don't build for 20 years- I'd say more like 10. I get a lot of calls to remodel baths in a development near my house.

One home two years old with loose floor tiles. Another with moisture ants. CPVC plumbing. The "trademark" mdf base that's ballooned next to the shower.

One of the most common things I hear is "we bought a new house so we wouldn't have to worry about these problems"

Tract home developments are a race to the bottom. No doubt about it.
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:19 PM   #75
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I talked to Schluter about the thinset on the Kerdi and they seem to believe that its not substantial enough to lead to excess seapage and leaking. They recommended recovering the seams with kerdi band. The contractor returned and redid the seams with KERDI instead of the band so hopefully the extra buildup isn't too tough to tile around.

I've scheduled a leak test and the county building inspector will sign off on it. It actually blows my mind that minimum time for the leak test is 15 minutes and can't show any signs of leakage. This short test may be a causal factor of the first pan's failure. The county says they inspected it but I can't see how it actually passed any test originally. I'll be allowing 24 hours for the leak test.

My biggest complaint with the product (and seen in numerous posts on this forum) is that the curb is sold with no preslope and the instructions don't even mention adding a preslope. Even Schluter's CSR recommends sloping the tile when installing it. Clearly the better solution is to preslope the curb then install the membrane but I have a hard time holding a contractor to that standard if the manufacturer doesn't use it. Same goes with the niche base slope, Schluter builds in no slope and recommends sloping the tile during install. In order to legitimately have had this done I would have had to write an additional instruction or contract essentially saying "the manufacturer's instructions aren't good enough..." In a situation as a homeowner working with a tract home builder's subcontractor this extra layer is tough to barter for. Asking to meet the manufacturer's instructions has been a chore itself.
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