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Old 10-05-2017, 10:16 PM   #31
jadnashua
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Kerdi is good stuff, but to work properly, it must be used up to at least the height of the showerhead. Your pan will be waterproof, but CBU is not waterproof, and any moisture that gets into or behind it (it won't be much, but gravity doesn't help!) won't be able to evaporate into the wall (not good anyways) or back into the shower, and won't have much of anywhere to go but down. Therefore, it can accumulate in the cbu between the moisture barrier behind it (Does it have that?) and behind the Kerdi on the surface.

Proper use of a system is important.
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Old 10-05-2017, 10:20 PM   #32
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Make sure they do a flood test. And what kind of a warranty comes with this (fix)?
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Old 10-05-2017, 10:31 PM   #33
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the warranty will be whats called "A Brake Light" warranty.............the first time the contractors brake lights come on after he leaves the job is the end of the warranty
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:24 PM   #34
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Find a certified (get references), tile inspector with installation knowledge. Discuss with builder (in email to be forthcoming), that you'd like them to participate $$.
If it turns out the work met/exceeded industry standards, you'll move on. If not you'll contact the local contractors Lic board (if your state offers), and let them decide if/when thier obligated warranty expires. In most states the board will consider egregious work as not able to be excused as the work itself could not be easily viewed.
Keep it all in emails & by all means be civil when communicating. Nothing worse than them producing a vulgar rant in court to lessen your case.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:30 PM   #35
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The demolition has begun and it already looks like the original installer had no idea what he was doing. The wall has no moisture barrier behind the cbu and I'm not sure about in front of it. My guess is there's none there either. There were no less than 12 nails through the top of the curb to hold the cbu down.

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Old 10-10-2017, 03:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenped86 View Post
The demolition has begun and it already looks like the original installer had no idea what he was doing. The wall has no moisture barrier behind the cbu and I'm not sure about in front of it. My guess is there's none there either. There were no less than 12 nails through the top of the curb to hold the cbu down.

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And look at that outside corner work

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Old 10-10-2017, 04:38 PM   #37
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Ken, we're seeing this all the time, it's beginning to be the norm.

The last shower I tore out, I could tell the first installer avoided putting nails in the curb/liner. He only had 3 on top of the curb but that was still enough to cause a leak. On the inside of the curb, he didn't have any cement board or nails but he didn't know what else to do so he stuck the tiles right to the liner. After I tore out the curb, I stood back and did this. Then this.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:51 PM   #38
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Well, originally they stopped after removing the curb and floor tiles but no wall tiles. They told me they'd put a new curb in and install a membrane ("Schluter?" I asked, yes they said). I've asked them to do a complete tear out and install the membrane to at least above the showerhead, as Schluter requires. They told me in the repairs they typically go to 18" above the floor. We'll see how this conflict progresses.
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Old 10-10-2017, 05:18 PM   #39
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Are they going to be installing a Schluter Drain? There is now way to tie Kerdi into an existing clamping drain... They can use the clamping drain adapter but there still needs to be a Schluter drain in there... If they use the USG membrane that has it's own drain too...

Davy they stuck the tile to the liner?? I didn't even know thinset would stick to PVC. At least not stick well enough that the slightest pressure wouldn't pop it right off?
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Old 10-10-2017, 05:35 PM   #40
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The tiles didn't stick very well at all, John. They were kinda wedged between the floor tiles and the tiles on top of the curb. I should have gotten a pic of it. First time I'd ever seen that.

Ken, like Jim mentioned in post 31, ask them what will prevent moisture from getting into the wall and going behind the Kerdi they plan to install. All moisture should be directed to stay inside the membrane, not allowed to go behind it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:21 PM   #41
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Pan liner corners cut, nails 2", from foundation, significant water damage behind the CBU. Thank you all for your ongoing support.

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Old 10-16-2017, 12:36 AM   #42
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Looks like the installer has agreed to replace the entire shower. I guess it pays to know what you're talking about when insisting work done correctly. Thanks again.I'll keep the forum posted on the rebuild and I'll make sure that's done correctly as well.

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Old 10-16-2017, 05:36 PM   #43
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I really feel for you Ken.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:26 PM   #44
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Thanks. Full tear out was done today.They left the preslope on the base even though they told me they plan to use a preformed schluter floor.

What are your thoughts on the niche? It's on an exterior wall made of 2x4s with zero insulation behind it. The product is a metal niche and I live in northern Florida. Are there insulated niches or do you normally extend the wall in? Or can I live with the cold spot in Florida? I've used the noble niche before which seemed like it was more insulated than this metal box.

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Old 10-18-2017, 09:36 PM   #45
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What are the low temps in the winter there? I've done one of those here in Arkansas for a friend, but I didn't like it. Faced to the north too, which made me worry more. But he never complained.

If you have mild temps there it may not be a problem at all. No niche that I'm familiar with is going to have any significant R-value, so one will likely be as good as another.

If they're planning to use a Kerdi foam tray, the drain has to be replaced, and the floor has to be flat and level. Not that they couldn't accomplish that over the top of what they already have there, but it looks like the floor is already an inch or two off the slab, so the tray will be even higher. If that's not a problem for you, they can put leveling compound over the existing floor.
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