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Old 09-22-2017, 08:28 PM   #31
Steph13
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Yes, I have concluded the shower pan is not right. I have paid 3k, and accomplished some tasks. He said his own plumbing, & electrical wasn't initially included since shower light fixture simply needed to be pushed up. But I suprised him 1 day by being home,, he gets his brothers plumbing companys trainees to do the plumbing & then a friend who is an electrician comes by to move the light & a recepticle, again neither needed to be unhooked. But I asked him to make a 2 gang rep into a 4.

1. He did alot of demo work roman tub w 3 long steps, bath splash, shower stall.
2. moved a toilet from 1 bath to the other.
3. plumbed my tub faucet & handshower each w it's own valve, repeat 2 valves for shower stall,
4. insulated my interior walls to bath
5. installed a toto 14 inch rough-in, the new toilet is still box.
6. Demo kitchen floor, & steps into sunken den.

So if I fire him he might get mad, but he did not get a permit from the city. Will another contractor
Be willing to pick up where this guy left off??

Is the lumber pressure treated, the tags say Southern pine, but the wood has a green cast?

Why don't more contractors use brick to build curbs?

Thank you for any & all responses!
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:36 PM   #32
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I may have missed it, is there a contract?

1. Most installers will no go over another guys prep work. But like we've mentioned most, if not all of your shower prep needs torn out anyways.

2. Looked like pt to me

3. They do, yours just doesn't know what he's doing. Sounds like he's more of a handy man rather than a qualified tile installer
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Old 09-23-2017, 07:59 AM   #33
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Well, lets back up. As far as curbs go, in my opinion, a lot depends on what type of water containment system you are using on the shower floor and curb. If you're using a surface applied membrane, like Kerdi or a paint on membrane, then bricks are the best way to go. If you stick a surface applied membrane right to 2x4's, it has a good chance of moving, so I'd use bricks.

But, you have a pan liner system. 2x4 curbs are fine (best to not use treated). The pan liner isn't stuck tight to the 2x4's like the surface applied system is. It's loosely wrapped over the 2x4's and nailed on the outside. The wood does have a little wiggle room. With a pan liner system, the curb needs to be wrapped in lath and mudded. There's no other good way to do it. And if bricks are used, it's difficult to fasten the lath on the outside of the curb.

Steph, if the curb is wrapped in lath and mudded correctly, there are no holes in the liner. Your installer has many holes in the liner.

I stay busy tearing out showers built just like yours. I'm doing one now that was only 6 years old. The one before this one was 17 years old but should have been torn out 10 years ago, a lot of rotten wood. When built wrong, having a brick curb won't save it.
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:55 AM   #34
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He's failing at just about everything and he's putting his fingers in his ears saying, "La-la-la-la-la-la".

Steph, it's time to cut your losses before they become greater. Everything is fixable with qualified help. But if you allow this to continue, it will cost you even more to fix.

Sorry.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:45 AM   #35
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Paying 4 bad work

Tool Guy is right, I had forgotten how con artist work, they make friends gain trust, but invent suprises, "oh I did not know you had hand showers on a separate valve, that will run you a bit more..." etc & so on...when caught they will keep repeating no its not, I always do it that way..
I can can still cancel the last check written to the contractor. Considering the cost to tear down the shower and I don't know the quality of work on the kitchen tear out ... should I do it. When I wrote the check I was feeling sorry for the sweaty laborer, who is the payee. What would you do? Attached are pics of what I thought were accomplishments.
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Old 09-24-2017, 02:16 PM   #36
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Demo is just that, as long as they did what they were supposed to and didn't damage anything in the process then they earned that part.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:54 AM   #37
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Follow up

I let the 1st contractor go, and it went fairly well. Only received 2 nasty messages, which I disregarded.

I followed the advice to get new bids from CTI list, all but 1 were outstanding.
Hired someone, who could start right away, & had good design ideas, and he seems to be doing a great job. But thought I would post pics for assurance. He only installs Schluter Kerdi products.
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Old 10-15-2017, 12:01 PM   #38
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What is the Prolite for?
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:14 PM   #39
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Prolite

I think it's to level the floor, for 12x 24 tile.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:40 PM   #40
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Okay, that would be fine over concrete, I just wanted to make sure the installer wasn't using it with the Schluter Shower System.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:41 PM   #41
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Prolite

Thanks for responding! I will ask him in the morning
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:08 PM   #42
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My pleasure Steph, that's what we're here for. Though I don't participate near as much as some of our more dedicated members.
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Old 10-15-2017, 04:45 PM   #43
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Welcome, Steph.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steph
I think it's to level the floor, for 12x 24 tile.
That thinset mortar shouldn't be used to level anything.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:15 PM   #44
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If he is using prolite over the kerdi to set tile, don't automatically disregard him. I am guilty of not adhering to every single rule that schluter puts out, but the warranty on my work falls squarely on me. While I appreciate the warranty provided by schluter they can always find a way out of paying for a warranty case....
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:01 PM   #45
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Prolte

He is planning to use the prolite to glue the tile to the Schluter, is this really a big deal? I really like this contractor.

Does the drain look good, or does the kerdi eliminate the
Drain issue?

Thanks Again
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