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Old 08-17-2017, 09:46 AM   #16
WillK
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My other question really was more general... it seems like tile sizes have gotten bigger and I don't see as much choice in the sizes I'm used to. But ultimately I had picked something out that I think is going to work for me anyway unless I change my color scheme. I really was trying to avoid light colors, white and beige-ish tones. I used the same tile for the kitchen and the basement stairs, I'm determined not to use just one tile throughout the whole house!

And yeah, I'm using CBU to bring the floor level with other flooring. I like the idea of using a self leveling compound over the wires, I have a feeling if that goes well I might start using it in other parts of this project too.
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Let's keep all the project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.
@CX Okay, actually if you could please rename this thread as "Will's first floor small 3/4 bathroom project" I would appreciate it.

I have actually made some changes to the design I'm planning. I've been making some gradual shifts in how I want to approach the shower, I personally like the round corner shower better than the flat neo-angle styles, but it's hard to argue with saving a couple hundred dollars.

As I started reviewing projects here though I shifted from wanting to buy the HD Neo Angle kit with doors, base and walls to buying the kit with just the doors at the same price, making my own base and tiling the walls.

So now I get to my next question... This shower will go into a corner with 1 interior wall and 1 exterior wall. I want the full 6" cavity depth on the exterior wall so I maintain the R21 insulation, and I want to put niches into the interior wall, and my options are wide open on how I frame it because I can put the studs anywhere I want. The wall will be filling in a former doorway, so structurally the load is carried by the existing header.

What kind of sizes (height especially) are niche's usually made? Being a guy, I just use my bottle of head and shoulders, but I have a wife, a daughter that's 10 and a step daughter that's 9 so I want to plan on a niche that's tall enough to accommodate whatever they need put in there.

Also, how should I make the bottom of the niche? I'm picturing that if it slopes the wrong way then water will pool which is bad, but if it slopes the right way but too much so then bottles will just slide off and fall on people's toes.

I also had a thought that if I put in 4 niches and maybe 1 smaller niche for a bar of soap then everybody has their own spot... But would that become aesthetically problematic?
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:49 AM   #18
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some people use chunks of granite/quartz/solid surface to make the bottom niche's, bench's or trays.

I think its a clean look that is easy to set with a uniform slope.

I stole these pics from a google search....
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:52 AM   #19
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I can't help with the aesthetics, but the bottom of your niche needs slope only 1/4" per foot, same as your floor and curb, and that won't make any of your containers slide out. I generally try to slope a wall niche about 1/8th" from back to front.

A look at the Niche thread in our Alumni Album forum may give you some design ideas.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-21-2017, 10:24 AM   #20
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Okay... Now I know this is going to ultimately be a question for my electrical inspector, but in general do I probably need to get my rough inspection with the floor heating wire in place before I cover it with skim coat?

It would be easier for me to tile the floor and get my rough plumbing done so I can have all my rough inspections the same day, but if I need to do rough electrical before I cover the heating wire, that moves up the electrical rough work in my project schedule...

Toilet flange does have to sit on top of tile, right?
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:10 AM   #21
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1. I would contact the local code compliance office and explain your issue, Karl, and see if they'll let you install the heating wire portion before you need your electrical inspection.

2. Yes.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:14 AM   #22
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Just a progress update, the plan was to have rough plumbing and electric done over the weekend, get rough inspection during the week so I could start closing out walls over Labor Day weekend. I'm going to be about a week behind. I need to finish furring out the wall to accommodate vent plumbing after I finish the rough plumbing work.

The galvanized pipes seen in the pictures supply the second floor bathroom above. These are currently still in use, and I need to finish and connect the new supply lines so the galvanized pipes can be removed and I can finish putting in subfloor, which I need to complete before I can cast the neo angle shower base. This needs to be done before I can lay hardiboards onto which I will set the floor heat cables, which needs to be completed before I can call for rough inspection.
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Old 09-20-2017, 02:32 PM   #23
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Alright... I need to sort out what I'm going to do with my shower now. I'm attaching a photo that's a little out of date, yesterday I had rough inspection and I had a small corner seat/footrest framed in and this photo shows a wall cavity without insulation that is there now...

So the inspector wants me to remove the paper from the insulation behind the framing for the corner. My concern is that there needs to be some sort of air barrier over the insulation, so I've been searching through trying to understand the proper building method and I haven't really found a satisfactory answer...

I did see the masonry shower seat thing, but in that case I'm not sure it's a perfect solution - the driver behind putting a seat in is the fact that I have a plumbing vent pipe intruding into the area of the shower pan. It has to go there because there's a joist and a triple 2x8 beam blocking where it otherwise would go if I was to avoid intruding on the shower pan.

My plan is to put up hardiboard on the walls, which I can't do until I get past rough inspection, and now I've read about removing all of the paper on insulation behind the hardiboard and replacing with 6 mil poly sheet, or removing the paper and coating the hardiboard with Redgard, or the suggestion here for the shower seat where I build the shower pan then build the shower seat with cement blocks inside the shower pan... I'm not real sure any method addresses everything though...

Thoughts?
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:20 PM   #24
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Hi Will, let's break this down some.

1. No need for an "air barrier" in your wall. If you were building an airtight house that would typically be on top of exterior sheathing. The craft paper on batt insulation is intended to be a vapor barrier, albeit a ho-hum one at best in most installations. The insulation does the insulating.

2. You can frame the bench. I screw and glue (PL Premium) the frame and sometimes cap with plywood. Surface applied membrane makes this viable, but bench must be rock solid and well attached

3. No vapor barrier behind Hardie or CBU if you're going to used a membrane, either paint on or sheet. Is drain installed? A system such as USG or Kerdi would check all the boxes if the drain is yet to be installed and they're all but bulletproof.

4. The question you didn't ask If I'm seeing it right, that little soap niche will end up being mighty small once you line it with CBU and tile. Gonna be hard to tile, grout and clean, too. FWIW, I try to wean my clients off of bar soap because the binder in it leaves so much residue. Soap in a bottle mo' betta.
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:10 PM   #25
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The soap Niche is 5 by 7, I should expect ation going to finish dimension of at least 3 x 5

Anyway I'm attaching current state image.
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:37 PM   #26
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Matt, is that a mock-up on bench? Doesn't look permanent.

Also, I'm assuming toilet backs up against exterior wall? Looks like toilet will cover some your heat wire...not good.
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:44 AM   #27
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Who is Matt? Yes, the 2x4 structure nailed to the wall framing and floor is the permanent seat structure... I really put it in there as a foot rest, at 9" wide I can sit on it but I wouldn't really be too likely to use it as a seat. The kids can sit on it, and they probably will just because it's novel to them that there's a seat, but I don't see that kids have a practical need for a shower seat...

The floor heat does extend under the toilet. I laid the CBU and put down the heat cable at around 5-6 AM after an all-nighter so I could get through rough inspection, the rest of the floor will be laid in 1/2" Hardi which I haven't gotten to because of work for rough building inspection...

My thinking at the time was that the toilet goes up to the one seam, but I'll extend the wire a little further to the sides of the toilet. Well, as it turned out I needed that whole area so I could get all the cable down - what I will have to do once I have more CBU laid is extend it back further (and extend more 1/4" hardie) so I can get out of the area under the toilet.

This was the smallest kit in stock at Menards. The instructions say you can't cut the cable shorter. And I'm using the minimum spacing.
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:51 AM   #28
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Will, Matt's your alter ego...you didn't know? Brain fart on my end.

As to seat frame. Regardless of anticipated use, the seat box and 2x6 in corner sure looks like it could benefit from better attachment to sidewalls. Where will you attach CBU? All edges of CBU must be supported.

Any movement of framing will almost certainly telegraph through CBU and tile in some way you don't want. One can't assume that wall covering will lend any strength to the whole assembly.

In an earlier pic, there appears to be a drain? in the field where your heat wire is. Am I seeing that right?
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:38 AM   #29
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Best I can figure is to put a 3/4" osb surface in and I can attach some 2x2 to support the bottom of the wall. With all the pipes running through the area, there isn't enough space to get anything in to shoot or drive nails or screws.

The 2x6 is attached at the top bottom and seat.. it went a little off of being straight vertical because I didn't have a third arm to hold it when I nailed it in place at the bottom... It provides a surface that is straight up and down, it's just the edges that are off.

I suppose if I put blocking in every 24" that angle would actually be advantageous since I could slide them in from the part where it's wider instead of having to wedge something in that's tight when it's in place, but doesn't fit when I'm trying to angle it into place...

It really doesn't wiggle or anything, attaching a picture from this morning...

And yes, I'm putting a floor drain in the middle of the floor, it is in the middle of the heated area. I have kids that like to find creative ways to circumvent the intended function of shower doors to contain shower water inside the shower.
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Old 09-22-2017, 01:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will
And yes, I'm putting a floor drain in the middle of the floor
Hi Will,

Will this floor drain connect to your house DWV? Will it have a trap primer?

Cheers, Wayne
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