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Old 05-30-2017, 07:38 PM   #16
rmckee84
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Just throwing out an idea, is you decide to do a solid surface cap on the pony wall I would get a piece for the seat top and the bottom of each niche. It's easier to clean and easier for water to drain off. Not to mention it gives it a cleaner look.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:23 AM   #17
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RM,

Yeah ...thinking the same thing ...more of integrated look between countertops, pony wall and the niches ...

Do you use 3cm material on the niches too, or try and find thinner?
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:46 AM   #18
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It's kinda thick but I would probably go ahead and use it on the niches too. Keep it all the same.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:08 AM   #19
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Better bench question ...

Can I put 2x6s between studs and attach better bench to the framed wall and fill with mortar prior to putting on CBUs? Would seem like would get better support for the seat than attaching it over the CBUs.

Kinda same process as putting in solid material so have to fabric and redgard it a bit differently.
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Old 06-04-2017, 10:57 AM   #20
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I suppose you could, George, but you'll gain no real advantage. Attaching the Better Bench through the wallboard into studs or solid blocking is quite adequate. Even when the wallboard is drywall as in a Kerdi shower. The wall tile alone would be sufficient, truth be known.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 06-07-2017, 08:58 PM   #21
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Thanks, CX ....got slowed down by work ...

Looking forward to getting back to that location ...but will be about two months ...
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Old 12-01-2017, 03:44 PM   #22
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Shower blocking for grab bar and other uses

Hi All,

Getting ready to close in the walls on a shower install - actually replaced an old "garden tub" with a 5' x 5' receptor.

Prior to close in, I thought I would add blocking for potential future grab bars, etc.

From ADA reading, it looks like 33-36" for grab bars, but perhaps there should be provision for taller ones , as well?

What do you guys do in this circumstance ...?? Have lots of 2x6 left over ...

Thanks.
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:17 PM   #23
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One more detailed question ...I think I know the answer, but ...

I will be using CBUs on the walls and setting them up 1/4" off the fiberglas receptor. I'll be using Redgard to seal the CBUs ...

What about the 1/4" gap? Tile to bottom of the CBU (1/4" off the receptor) and then silicon caulk?

Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:45 PM   #24
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You talking about stopping your CBU above the tiling flange or over the tiling flange and above the ledge on the receptor?

I put blocking behind my shower walls anyplace I think the owner might someday want a fixture of any kind. I then take photos with a measuring device in the area so we can all remember where the blocking is installed.

I like to use the widest dimension wood scraps I have to make the blocking, but if 2x6 is all you've got, that's likely what you'll wanna use.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:01 PM   #25
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Thanks, cx, for consolidating the posts.

Plan to run CBU down over the flange - receptor is rabbeted into the studs so will slide over the flange. Was going to leave 1/4" between bottom of CBU and top of the ledge.

Yeah, 2x6 is all i have ... not much else on this job or would use it :-)

Silicon between tile and ledge after tiling and grouting?
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:12 PM   #26
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That flexible sealant between tile and receptor is what the industry standards call for, George. Does your receptor have drain areas around the perimeter? I can't see any in your photos.
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Old 12-02-2017, 03:41 PM   #27
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CX,

60 x 60 Archer - https://www.us.kohler.com/us/Archer-...randId=1159445

Drains to center, lips up to the ledge ...
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:09 PM   #28
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Mmmmm, you know how many site-built tiled receptors you could build for that seven hunnert dollars, right?

Doesn't look like it has any drain areas as do some such receptors, but I'd still not recommend caulking continuously around the tile/receptor joint. Same complaint I've always had with that recommendation around tub-showers. Too easy to be storing a lot of water behind the tiles in that area. I'd want at least a few gaps in that caulking to allow for drainage.

If you actually get the recommended minimum of 95 percent coverage on the back of each wall tile, the problem is reduced, but getting that kind of coverage is not nearly as easy as it might sound.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-02-2017, 08:29 PM   #29
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Ha! Just didn't have time to get into doing a base ... trying something new :-)

OK - will leave some weep gaps in the silicon.

Thanks!
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Old 12-07-2017, 05:54 PM   #30
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Hey - quick question!

So, doing a niche between the 2x4 studs (16" on center) ... the niche is on the wall between the shower and the master bedroom - no optimal, but it is what I had to work with for interior walls.

I was "thinking" about not putting CBU on the back of the niche (against the drywall) ... get a half inch niche depth back ...just Redgard the wallboard and tile over it.

Is this "bad thinking?"
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