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Old 05-03-2017, 03:04 PM   #31
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As long as you can reach the handles without having to climb into the tub.
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Old 07-22-2017, 04:56 PM   #32
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Getting back to it after some rest due to a shoulder injury. Finally got the exterior wall plumb and mostly flat (wall with insulation in pic). It's near perfect checking horizontally and vertically, but when I run a 4 foot level from lower-right to upper-left it will rock a little along the entire wall so there's some twist that I can't get rid of without major cutting so I'm going to leave it as is. Worst is probably 1/8" out over 4 feet. I've already planed the severely bowed 2x4's down to less than 3" in the middle.

So now my problem. I will be installing a shower panel so I need a niche for the water connections and a brace for the support bracket. The problem is that there is a vent pipe in this area. So I'm thinking of doing what is shown in the picture below. Yellow is a square of OSB that will go behind the vent pipe and attach to the 2x4's shown in pink. The wide pink band is for the support bracket. Does this seem like an okay plan or can/should I do something better?

P.S. I still need to sister to the center studs as this entire wall is out of plumb by about 5/8".
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:42 AM   #33
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Just updating build.

Not pretty, but this is what I wound up with on the plumbing wall:
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Old 09-18-2017, 12:00 PM   #34
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I don't see any issues with what you did. Most times those panels have room to make the connections without having to recess anything, but yours may be different.
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Old 09-18-2017, 01:16 PM   #35
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You can make the connections directly to female pipe thread in the wall but then you don't have shut-off valves. When I'm done tiling I'll cut off those pipes in the niche and install the shut-off valves. I'll use sharkbite fittings so I don't have to solder in there.

The plan is to waterproof the niche just like any niche, even though it will see almost no water. I was just going to goop kerdi-fix around the pipe penetrations.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:41 AM   #36
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I set the Kerdi drain. This is my first time working with thinset.

After about 12 hours the thinset was still darker where it is thicker, in the cutouts of the Kerdi drain. I expected the thinset to become uniformly light gray when dry/cured. But at 38 hours it's still darker, but feels solid. Just going by descriptions and what I've seen in videos, the consistency seemed about right... maybe on the thick side. Thinset is Versabond. Is this normal?
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:14 AM   #37
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Joe, I'm not sure you've installed the drain correctly. I can't tell for sure from the one picture you've posted. It appears you've set it in thinset mortar only, and I think I can see the bare OSB around it.

It should have been set at the same time as the sloped bed of deck mud on top of the OSB.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:29 AM   #38
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I have the Kerdi foam tray and am following the instructions for "No plumbing access". The center section of the foam tray is removed and installed under the drain separately. Next step is the rest of the tray.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:10 AM   #39
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Ok, good.

What thinset mortar did you use? What is the temperature in the room?
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:01 AM   #40
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Versabond thinset.

I doubt the temperature has dropped below 70 in the room. Not raining outside, as usual for SoCal. Humidity probably below 70%. Big room with air circulation. Color hasn't really changed in the last 24 hours.
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:39 PM   #41
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Its fine, try and keep thinset off of that white fleece on the drain though. It needs to stay fairly clean until you cover it with kerdi.
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:39 AM   #42
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More progress, and a question or two, of course.

I seem to have painted myself into a bit of a corner. I was going to do the complete shower and then the tub. Mostly so I could have the tile pattern flow from whatever height it winds up being in the shower. However, the valves and spout for the tub are supposed to be installed and tightened from underneath and I won't have access to this after the CBU is installed between shower and tub. I think I'm going to have to install the top row of tiles where the tub fixtures go, then install the CBU and do the shower. I was going to install bullnose on the horizontal surface where it goes into the shower and work back, but now I'll have to work the other way.

Regarding curb. I want to use brick but I found normal bricks to be a bit too large for what I want. Any reason not to use pavers instead? Specifically, "Rumblestone Outdoor Building Blocks" from Homer. Also, will it hurt anything to cut the pavers with my new cheapo wet saw?

P.S. I found working with CBU not to be very difficult. Straight cuts are super easy with just a box cutter and for the tricky cuts I found the dullest course-tooth jigsaw blade I had laying around and it easily cut through the CBU with no clouds of dust. The blade is down to just nubs at this point but still cuts and I'm about done.
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Old 10-24-2017, 02:24 PM   #43
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Use any standard masonry brick / paver you wish. Cutting them on your wet saw will not hurt the saw, and may in fact 'dress' the blade making it function better.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:31 AM   #44
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Trowel Size

Getting closer to actually putting down tile.

What trowel would be recommended for a 1" x 2" mosaic on the shower floor?

I have a 1/4" x 3/8" square that I was going to use for the 12" x 12" wall tile and a 1/8" square I will use for the Kerdi.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:29 PM   #45
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Its always the same answer for any tile, whichever one will give you proper coverage. The kerdi trowel probably won't do it, I have used the ditra trowel before, a 1/4"x1/4" square and knocking the ridges flat will most definitely give you the coverage you need.
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