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Old 03-08-2017, 12:08 PM   #16
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Update

Not much of an update but here's the latest tile plan. Moved the accent stripe up per bosses orders (wife) and shifted to full tiles on the outside edge instead of the corner.

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Not much done because I've got roof leaks to deal with, which is a wee bit of a priority.
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:00 PM   #17
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Update Plan

Change of plans again. I decided that the old tub just had to go. So I'm going with a smaller drop in tub and extending the shower out a little. Here's the updated view, with window now shown:

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The questions:

1. My shower pan will now be a little more uneven. Just .08" difference vertically in the visible corner but .18" difference in the other corners. So... would you make up this difference with a little thicker grout line or keep grout width the same and drop the tiles down or just fudge both? I plan on 3/16" grout width.

2. There is 3" x 12" bullnose available but I don't like the look of a 3" wide border all around and it makes odd slivers around the tub backsplash. So I'm thinking of just using the bullnose on top edge of tub in front and in shower (highlighted edges in picture). Like I've said, I'm an engineer, not a designer, so I'm not sure if this will look okay. Other edges along wall will be back chamfered and filled with grout... I think. Unless you use caulk there?

3. Assuming I do the bullnose plan above, would it be okay to make the front tub wall only 2" thick? (2x4 sideways with 1/2" CBU). The tub will be supported by bottom. I want to do this so I don't have the 3" wide bullnose and then a tile sliver before the tub edge.
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Old 03-15-2017, 01:30 PM   #18
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1. I start at the lowest point and level around and cut the bottom row keeping a consistent joint all the way around.
2. I would use a metal profile.
3. Probably, again I would use profiles here as well unless the customer insisted.

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Old 03-15-2017, 04:22 PM   #19
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Really not a fan of metal profiles. And more importantly, the wife is not a fan.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:16 PM   #20
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I will be pickup up tub, CBU, and plywood, wanting to do it all at once with rental truck. Thought I would grab the thinset too but realized I'm not really sure what to get.

Could I (should I) use Versabond for setting the shower pan (Schluter), setting the tub (Acrylic), applying Kerdi to CBU, and for tile to Kerdi?
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:02 PM   #21
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Joe, you're gonna need to read the directions for the products you intend to use to determine what you need to use as a thinset mortar.

You're likely to determine that the manufacturer's don't recommend Versabond, or any other A118.4 mortar, for any of those applications, but I could be wrong.

I do know it is not manufacturer recommended for use with Kerdi at all, but lots of folks, self included, have used it regularly for that application. The manufacturer will accept it for installation of the foam shower tray.

I know it is very unlikely that the tub manufacturer recommends any kind of thinset mortar for setting your bathtub. Customarily when they say mortar they mean something more akin to masonry mix or mortar mix, which you can get in pre-bagged form from your home center.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 03-22-2017, 02:47 PM   #22
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I'm not big on following "manufacturer recommendations". If I did that with my car I would have blown the engine long ago (VW/Audi 2.0t cam follower WILL fail if not replaced regularly). I trust the multiple recommendations of experienced pro's more.

I looked up the very generic tub installation manual and it states "While not a necessity, the use of a foundation base consisting of cement, mortar, or grout will help provide a solid and secure installation."

Grout?!? That seems odd. I have some quickrete mortar I used on the peaks of my tile roof. Sounds like that will work for the tub.
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Old 03-22-2017, 04:26 PM   #23
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I've used Versabond based on the recommendations by many here on three Kerdi showers with no problems noted in many years of service.
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Old 03-22-2017, 04:39 PM   #24
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They are not talking about tile grout, Joe. They're talking about a wet sand/cement mix of a type usually specified for filling concrete blocks and similar applications.

If you don't like the manufacturer's installation instructions, do whatever you like.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 03-27-2017, 04:02 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
They're talking about a wet sand/cement mix of a type usually specified for filling concrete blocks and similar applications.
Good to know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cx
If you don't like the manufacturer's installation instructions, do whatever you like.
I wasn't dismissing manufacturers instructions outright. Even if Schluter knows that the Versabond works okay they can't just say "use unmodified or this one specific modified". That would be confusing and then there would be pissing matches about why one modified is okay and another isn't. There's a legal and logistical difference between what a manufacturer can recommend and what experienced users/pro's can.

Anyway, here's a little update. Yeah, it's not exactly tile. But this is the quartz countertop on the wall opposite of the tub/shower:

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Right now I'm ticked off at Home dePot. I need 2x6's for the pony walls for the tub. They have kiln dried on their web site available in-store. When I check the boards they are tagged "-grn". SKU and price matches up to web site but it's definitely not kiln dried. Now I can't get the tub and lumber on the same rental truck trip.
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Old 03-28-2017, 01:14 PM   #26
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Uh oh... I had the countertop people make me an extra piece for use on the shower curb. But I forgot that I had changed plans since and went with a smaller tub and extended the shower out a few inches.

So I'm considering using tile under the solid section of glass and just have the countertop piece under the door, as shown below.

So my question is... how questionable is this from a waterproofing standpoint? I figure I would Kerdi the curb as normal and then build up the thinset under the tile so the height matches the solid piece.

Second question is... how questionable is this from a looks standpoint?

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Alternatively I could add a 2x6 to the wall on the right and the countertop piece would be just about right to fit the length from tile to tile.
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:18 PM   #27
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My Little Pony

Getting ready to put up the pony wall for the tub. Plan is to cut out the bottom 2x8 for the drain and the one water supply line. I don't think it would make a significant difference, structurally. Plumbing hasn't been glued together yet.

Still deciding between;
A. Run drain line above floor, as shown, and raise tub up about 1 1/2".
B. Cut along dotted line and run drain below floor level, which places drain very close to the joist.

I originally wanted to redo the trap and all, but the pipe comes through the joist and immediately goes 45-45-90-180-short vertical pipe, with almost no exposed pipe between fittings so no room to cut and add.

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Old 04-04-2017, 10:44 PM   #28
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I'd go with B.
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:50 PM   #29
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I'd go with B also.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:37 AM   #30
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Getting ready to build the final pony wall between tub and shower but I need to decide on faucet location so I know where to put the supports. So I laid the tub in place and have some examples.

Looking for some opinions on these or possible other configurations.

Standard: Hard to reach handles after glass wall installed for shower.
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Offset: Functional and somewhat normal looking.
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Side-saddle: Unconventional. Too weird?
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