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Old 05-22-2017, 03:53 AM   #31
Kman
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Then the only thing I can think of would be that the thinset is too dry. Double check your measurements on powder and water, and make sure you're stirring thoroughly for the recommended amount of time.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:35 PM   #32
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When you spread thinset on walls, especially with a large notch like you have, it takes a lot of thinset to make solid, continuous notches. Keep plenty of thinset along the edge of the trowel when spreading. Spread upward as much as you can to avoid dropping any thinset. You can spread it sideways but I like to make the final path in a upward motion with extra thinset on the trowel. That will leave solid grooves in the thinset without any skipping or voids. Then skim coat the tiles with the flat side of the trowel.
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Old 06-11-2017, 02:50 PM   #33
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Ardex bag not full?

Hi guys,
Kind of a weird post, but I just bought another bag of thin set I was going to use today. When I purchased it, I thought it seemed light for 40lbs, and had more air than The last one I bought. Well this morning I decided to weigh it and its 6-7lbs lighter than 40lb sure enough. Tile store is closed today, is this something I should care about or is it normal to be off by this much? Should get a replacement or contact ardex? Its not cheap and I feel a bit ripped off.
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:21 PM   #34
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Ardex is known to have lightweight thinset. Does the bag say 40 pounds on it? One of their selling points is that you will get the same amount of square fiit coverage out of that bag as you would a competitor.

I read the ardex website. I would complain to someone. You will probably get a free bag of thinset


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Old 06-11-2017, 03:21 PM   #35
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Not normal, I'd be pissed especially if you pay anywhere close to what I do for x77. I'd take it back if you can wait.
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Old 06-11-2017, 03:25 PM   #36
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Yes it says 40lbs on the bag and it is supposed to go as far as competitor 50lb bags. So will go exchange it, I can wait until next weekend I have a bit left of the first bag. The main reason it bothers me is that I think I can finish the job with 2 bags but it will be close. if I had to buy a 3rd bag for the final 10 sq ft I'd be quite unhappy.
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Old 11-18-2017, 07:42 PM   #37
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Caulking for Shower

Hi All,

I just wanted to find out which specific brands of caulking you professionals recommend for showers?

The tile store near me carries Mapesil (100% silicone) and Keracaulk (Sanded siliconized acrylic). I could also order Latisil online if it is better, but its pretty expensive and id have to wait for it.

-Should I stay away from the siliconized acrylic in a shower?
-Grout is white so matching shouldn't be as big of a deal, I just want the best performing product and not have to worry about mold or difficulty in replacing it for a while.
-How do you guys deal with replacing caulking lines for changes of planes after glass is installed? (curb and knee wall)

Thanks! Getting so close to being done!
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Old 11-19-2017, 09:21 AM   #38
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Advice needed for a new Shower Job

Hey, the siliconized acrylic is definitely more user friendly and forgiving than 100% for the less experienced. However, it doesn't come close to the performance of 100%. The acrylic tends to be eaten away rather quickly in a shower. It's fine for tiled cove base or kitchen backsplash if need be but you'll do your future self a huge favor by snatching up some tubes of that 100%.
I'd type silicone into the search bar here. There's already some great info. Then, practice a bit on a mock up tile section or something. Blowing through a practice tube (or even two) is a small sacrifice. You'll enjoy seeing a nice and mold free inside corner every morning. Mastering silicone or at least getting close is quite satisfying. Have fun.


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Old 11-19-2017, 09:22 AM   #39
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By the way, Mapei everything basically is great.


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Old 12-06-2017, 02:18 PM   #40
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OK, got some Mapesil, just one more questing before starting the sealing -

I have a few little areas with larger (1/4-3/8") gaps - Between curb/wall, knee wall/wall, and pebble floor/wall) - I will stuff some backer rod in those spots before caulking.

However for the rest, I did a pretty good job of keeping my change of plane gaps around 1/8" in the shower. For these, do you guys still stuff in 1/4 backer rod first or do you just caulk and call it a day? i ask because although the gap is only 1/8", the depth is a good 1/2"+ when you factor in thick tiles and thinset. Not sure if the backer rod adds any significant stability or if I am over-analyzing.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:33 PM   #41
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No backer rod with 1/8" gaps as the caulk holds itself.
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:35 PM   #42
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David, the photo below shows the optimum installation of your flexible sealant. The backer rod not only limits the depth of the material, it helps to shape it and keep it from being bonded to anything but the two sides of the joint, which is the objective.

Name:  Caulking Bead.jpg
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Size:  33.3 KB

The optimal thickness ratio is that the material be half as thick as the width of the joint, but with smaller joints such as you have in the shower, a ratio of 1:1 is usually acceptable to the manufacturer.

It's pretty uncommon to find such joints caulked correctly, but that should still be the goal if you want the sealant to perform per the manufacturer's specifications. Mostly you do the best you can, but if you can find some suitable backer rod for those 1/8th" joints, I'd certainly use it to reduce that 1/2" depth.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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