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Old 01-02-2017, 03:21 PM   #1
dskater411
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Advice needed for a new Shower Job

Hi All

Been a while since I have checked in. I have started a master bathroom remodel which includes ripping out the old shower/tub surround and floor. I tiled my guest bath floor 6mos ago and it came out very nice so now have the confidence to attempt this. I have been researching a ton but had a few specific questions/advice Id like to ask the experts here (attached are before and current shots of the area). Already put in new drain, new valve, and had a hot mop guy come out (in CA here) -

1. Im using hardibacker for ease of installation and for a more flush tile look (previous job was mud/lathe over greenboard and tile stuck out from walls). I was going to shim the studs so the backer is plum with pan. I read to go down to 1/2" of pan liner but the board curves too much if I do so. Is it ok to just bring it down level with top of curb, and if so, do I just mud in the void space when floating my pan? Do I need to be concerned with water wicking? should I tape from board to pan or seal it in any way?

2. I know either is acceptable but whats the better option for me between redgarding the backer vs vapor barrier behind? The bathroom is open to the bedroom but there is no fan, I don't want mold issues once glass enclosure goes in so im leaning toward redgard. But I have read on here that adhesion to hardi can be an issue too so not sure which to choose.

3. My biggest question - I pretty sure im going to have to mud/lathe the entrance curb, will I also have to do so on the 2 foot wall/curb going to the tub? I know I don't want to puncture the hot mop but I don't have any mudding experience up to this point. Do people staple the lathe to the hot mop? If I do mud, do I tape the seam between this curb wall and the backer wall? Redgard over the mud or no?

4. For the tub surround do I need to remove greenboard, backer/redgard just as im doing in shower or is it OK/acceptable to tile over greenboard? Not sure if this is considered a wet area or not since its above the tub and shouldnt get wet unless someone is splashing like crazy (also i have never used the tub).

Ill post more questions as they come. Appreciate it!
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Old 01-02-2017, 05:49 PM   #2
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1. What do you mean the board curves?
The board does need to come down close to the pan, don't think curb height would work.

2. I prefer the redguard if I had to choose between those two. You really need an exhaust fan in there.

3. No experience with hop mop

4. Depends on you're area and whether you care about code. Some places consider it a wet area, some don't.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:49 PM   #3
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Redgard/Waterproofing corner taping

I have a waterproofing question with regards to the corners where the backerboards meet. Is the correct process to-

a. thinset and use 2" fiberglass mesh tape per the hardibacker instructions, then redgard directly over that, or

b. brush redgard into corners, apply 6" membrane fabric tape, then brush over it again per redgard instructions, or

c. apply both the mesh tape and fabric tape

I cant figure out if its one or the other, or both. Id think both would make the corners pretty thick but dont want to miss a step.

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:52 PM   #4
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Straight from the manufacturer

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Old 01-06-2017, 11:22 PM   #5
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I understand redgard states to use the 6" tape for corners greater than 1/8", but then would that mean I would ignore the hardi backer install instructions to tape and thinset all joints prior to tiling, or am I supposed to do both?
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:47 PM   #6
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red guard and mesh + thinset for the flat areas . I thought you meant to use the mesh tape for the red guard. Use the red guard + fabric for the changes of plane.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:01 PM   #7
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David, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

Installing the CBU and installing your waterproofing membrane are two separate and distinct operations. Install your CBU per that manufacturer's instructions, then install your waterproofing membrane per that manufacturer's instructions.

The only time that would be different would be if you were using a sheet-type membrane that is installed using thinset mortar. In that case you can eliminate the separate treatment of the CBU joints and seams.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-28-2017, 11:31 AM   #8
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Hi All

I have a question about putting in a shower niche. Ive read you don't put them into exterior walls, but I believe (correct me if Im wrong) the main reason is due to lack of insulation?

I'm in Southern CA, the coldest it gets is 35-40 degrees F at night during the winter for a few weeks (50 during the day), and 100 degrees in the summer. This exterior wall is on the north side of my house, almost always in shade. Studs are 2x4's so I can't put 2" of insulation or foam behind it. Is there any other reason to NOT do it? I have a corner shower and my only other option is to put 2 narrow niches in the wall where my valve/shower head are. I'm hesitant to do this for 2 reasons, one, the studs are narrow (8.5" and 9" of space between them so the niche wouldn't fit much) and one of them has an electrical box/wiring stapled to the stud for the light switch on the other side of the wall, would be a pain to notch blocking around it), and two, having everything on 1 wall (valve, shower head, 2 niches) might look too busy.

Thanks
David
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:45 PM   #9
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David, you can put the niche anyplace you want. Temperature control is the primary reason for not installing them in exterior walls.

If you'll put that geographic location into your User Profile it'll remain permanently in view to aid in answering some types of questions. If you don't, the information likely will be lost before we leave this page.
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Old 01-28-2017, 12:58 PM   #10
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I tiled my kids bathroom almost 40 years ago and I installed a niche on the exterior wall. I don't see it being a problem in sunny Southern Cal.
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:55 PM   #11
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So I just want to give respect to all of the mudders out there. I just completed my first mud job (curb and tub ledge wall) and have to say I hope it was my last. It actually came out pretty well, I got it plumb, flat, and sloped the top toward the shower, but it was challenging, frustrating, and I sweated a LOT.

I kind of have a unique shower because I wanted to use CBU, but I scheduled a hot mop before I really did enough research. If I had to do it over I would have notched the studs first or even better, just have done a pan liner myself. I was too timid initially but not anymore.

What I learned about mudding-
-its all about confidence, just keep moving and get it up quickly
-how much water you use is key, too much and it doesn't hold its form, too little and it comes off in chunks as you trowel and screed.
-its hard to not want to keep touching it up and making it more perfect while its drying
-if I hadn't done the curb first, no way could I of done the tub ledge. A little practice went a long way.
-its messy, cleaning up isnt fun, and im tired.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:25 PM   #12
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Congratulations and welcome to the club.

If this was easy, we wouldn't have jobs.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:43 PM   #13
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Hey Everyone. I am ready to begin tiling now as soon as I add my waterproofing membrane, but was hoping to get some quick tips on layout from the pros before I begin.

I am using 6x24" tiles. Most video's Ive watched show people starting with the second row from the bottom and working up. Because I have the tub wall continuing from the shower, however, it would leave an unsightly sliver of tiles as the bottom row around the tub. If I move everything down a couple inches I would have exactly 2 tiles surrounding the tub as drawn on the wall (pink lines). I have no bullnose options, im using schluter trim throughout. So, Im thinking I should start at the tub, then work both up and down, but concerned I will have issues with sagging tiles and uneven grout lines if I work downward. What is the correct way to approach/best spot to start?

Thanks!
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:57 PM   #14
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Sounds like a good plan to me. We often do that. You can start one row down from the tub with a little careful measuring.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:12 PM   #15
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I would start the layout on the face of the tub with a row of full tiles along the top where it meets your Schluter edging. Then put the cuts at the floor. Let that line of tiles flow right around into the shower. Since the shower floor is a different height than the bath floor, the cut size will be different. It's possible this is what you were planning, I can't see your pink lines.

In my opinion, once the glass is up, the tub will be the first thing you'll see when walking in.
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