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Old 12-02-2016, 08:50 PM   #1
argile tile
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lippage - i'm i at redo or should i keep ?

hi

where would y'all call the line of looks and lippage in his *own* house and work for a basement? you know - if customer were not in the picture? and why? i think i'm "ok with teetering on ok" (way better than bad floor paint) but i'm unsure of the future (if for some reason i should consider the basement as important as a foyer entrace)

the WORST tile is very slightly more than 1/16" on one side and 1/32" on same edge (a slight tilt too). there are up to several 1/32", very few close to but less than 1/16".

i did a small bathroom very well years ago - but when i went to do a basement floor overconfident - everything took hard turns on me (costing me allot of time sofar).

the "basement idea" was to, at low cost, rid dust caused by bad floor paint (achoo!) what caused problem (i wont do it again) mixing different tile thicknesses while already stretching what can be truely done without first leveling a poorly poured floor (so i found). (i have two larger rooms to do they will be done right to save time - not just for looks)

i started with a trowel now i'm having to level each tile individually - because floor change is too much for the trowel to work with - huge time waste when multiplied per tile

i haven't grouted so i know it will look "better"

so am i lucky it's just one room and continue floor is ok?

or no - stop - tear out - do it perfect ?


thank you very much the site is wonderful - unfortunately all those youtube yoohoos i looked at did not remind me to "keep my level in hand" or that "leveling floor saves allot of time - it's not just for asthetics"
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Old 12-02-2016, 09:07 PM   #2
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p.s. the one tile at the corner of the cabinet (behind but not under the level) is not low - it has no mortar yet

if you were thinking "might sell the house someday" but "never planned on selling it as fully finished basement". is that the wrong way to think? or ok, if one floor is fine but not great, it's better than paint?
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Old 12-02-2016, 11:00 PM   #3
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Welcome, Argile.

I could quote you chapter and verse on the ceramic tile industry standards for acceptable lippage, but if you're doing that work for yourself and didn't take the time to properly prepare the floor, I'd say that whatever is acceptable to you and Mrs. Argile is fine with me.

Seriously, if you're comfortable with what you've got, keep it. If you're not, tear it out as soon as possible (it'll be easier) and flatten the floor and try again.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 12-03-2016, 06:54 AM   #4
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It looks good to me.
How are you able to set these tiles without any signs of thinset oozing out anywhere? Are you just "dry" laying these to check for fit?
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Old 12-03-2016, 08:42 AM   #5
Todd Groettum
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It appears you have some mixed calibre tile in the one photo you nearly lost a grout line....could be the photo and angle but check your calibre numbers on your tile boxes to make sure they r all the same...
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Old 12-03-2016, 06:15 PM   #6
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Your first pic shows what looks like a slab crack at the bottom. Did that crack go all the way across the room? Hopefully you won't have any problems but I would have hated to leave it untreated.
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:17 PM   #7
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> How are you able to set these tiles without any signs of thinset oozing out anywhere? Are you just "dry" laying these to check for fit?

the dry lay didn't show any lapping problem - it only solved layout/design/looks issues (i read i should always to do that and always keep level in hand). infact the floor was terrible and varies by with more than 1/4" and by height more than 1/2". i didn't know due to inexperience and too much optimism many factors on a large floor will compound.

how? the hard way, by pushing down tile and scraping excess which causes un-mentionable time loss - a huge reason not to do anything larger than a small bathroom without leveling first
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:24 PM   #8
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> It appears you have some mixed calibre tile in the one photo you nearly lost a grout line

i handn't heard of calibre numbers i'll check the (boxes/tile) again thank you.

is a very slight deviation in grout line but it isn't visible in photo. because the spacing is 1/16" (a little more because spacers had sand grains - an issue i hand't predicted), because of tile has stiff square edges, any slight elevation in camera angle has a view that some disappear "too soon"

i'm only hoping that the room passes as "ok", the next two will be done right

the mortar line is more or less floor deviation the tiles are laid level (problematically level). we see up to 3/8" mortar under the worst tile - the floor drops 1/4" there, in width.

in length i had beginners luck - the floor drops at least 3/8" to the other entrance. 1/2 way through i decided to keep tiles level but lower them gradually from stairway. as it turns out when i set my last tile a little lower - i will be exactly at 1/2" - just within legal limit to install a transition, the tiles go under the door but the door opens the other way.
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:43 PM   #9
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> Your first pic shows what looks like a slab crack at the bottom. Did that crack go all the way across the room? Hopefully you won't have any problems but I would have hated to leave it untreated.

thank you for mentioning that. no i didn't treat it.

the crack was painted 7 yr ago (had lost it's previous orig. 30 yr old paint), but it still had it's 2nd coat of paint unbreached (the paint in the crack had not cracked).

history: the crack begins near a pole (holding an I-Beam) where a 2x4 wood is sunk in crete and goes to the 8" thick concrete wall. when i used a chisel to level a high area (about 2 foot where crack starts at the wood/concrete/pole) it appeared the concrete was much harder on one side than the other. i assume the developer patched a crack long before i ever saw it. 7 yr ago i painted the floor with really bad "textured floor paint" (dust is terrible) and had filled it in and noticed it - for the first many years the orig. paint had covered it.

NO, I didn't treat it and i don't know how (except the TCA guide, which i think would say: level floor, put down membrane, 1.5"-2" mortar on top of membrane. but i'm not a tile pro)

my tiles have 1/8" to 1/4" of solid (not combed, flat level) mortar and have no hollow spots for lack of contact (i checked by dropping a coin after it dried), so i assume my only problem could be grout (actaully a few tiles do have a hollow spot, but only a small area near the tile center)

i'm unsure what "slight movement in the crack" over a period of several years might do. the movement has been slight though
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:50 PM   #10
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can slippery floor tile be treated?

hi,

i got tile from a store on a really good sale - probably because it's flat and glazed and a little too slippery to be sold legally.

i'm wondering if their's a way to clean or treat the tile without harming it's longevity to make it "slighly less slippery"

(the tile ceramic is close to the color of the tile though). i hear tile lasts a very long time if not cleaned improperly - i dont want want to redo the floor anytime soon due to "poor experimentation", i'd rather put a sign up saying wear sneakers

thank you
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:57 PM   #11
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floor leveling without self-seeking cement?

hi,

can i level a floor without self-seeking cement? ssc is expensive (i have little income) and mortar is cheap - and there may be multiple bags involved.

my idea is: make a turret with mortar (an all-direction level cylinder to set level on and turn about on), aim my level/laser by turning on. with that, i could make mortar humps 1' to 2' apart that all line up. then next day, i can mortar with trowel or straight board between the hump. i have a 4' level to help me.

i'm thinking i loosing 1.5 days doing that is my guess, which is ok with me.

** OR i could be very wrong an maybe someone would advise against using pasty mortar to level by hand **, which is why i ask

or maybe i should just put ssc on my credit card and suck it down?

thanks much
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Old 12-14-2016, 11:58 PM   #12
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How much height do you have to work with, and what is the floor construction? (Framed or slab)...if you can tolerate enough height build up, you might have the option of doing a deck mud floor. I'll let the pros fill you in on the details of making such a floor, but it's generally accepted to be the best way to a flat floor, and it's also very inexpensive compared to SLC.
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:22 AM   #13
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> How much height do you have to work with and what is the floor construction?

concrete floor (basement), 1/2"
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:25 AM   #14
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i had already read http://www.johnbridge.com/how-to/deck-mud/

i searched using your term "leveling with deck mud" and found http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPDLgSxubG0

it shows someone on a floor of loose deck mud already laid down and someone working a 12ft arm across it to level it. it mentions having first made a level peri-meter (with mortar) as a guide to follow while using the 12ft arm.

this looks speedier than what i had in mind. i'm unsure how one DiY person would put down (see image) a ?200 sq/ft floor of (1") deck mud and level in w/in the 30-45 min (john bridges says is working time) as seen in the video. i should maybe work in smaller sections and level off in-between after they dry.
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:28 AM   #15
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"Floor Screeding" Level seems to be a better term to use

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFH4b_bgd3E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-KOjfEA05g
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