Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-19-2017, 03:01 PM   #121
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
It's actually an elevator handrail. Was custom made to order and was less than the brushed nickel one (Align series) that I was originally looking at that wasn't too clinical. The rest of the room hardware is SS, so this worked out well.
http://lustreproducts.com/handrails/round
It's ADA compliant and I can mount it with 1/4" lag bolts into the studs, so it should be strong enough to sit on. Probably will have a wash cloth on it most of the time.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2017, 05:32 PM   #122
Carbidetooth
Hmmmmm
 
Carbidetooth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,081
Now you've got me really curious, Jeff.

Do you mind telling us what it cost?

I assume you got this mounting system?

http://lustreproducts.com/handrails/...-component-kit
__________________
Peter
Carbidetooth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2017, 05:37 PM   #123
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Not at all. It was $84 and change inclusive of shipping. Took about a week from order to delivery. I was expecting it to be more, but didnt complain.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2017, 01:17 PM   #124
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Mapei Ultralite S2

Any of you have experience with this mortar? I finished grouting last week and finally got the slab cuts for the seat and curbs. They're Cosentino Eco and the manufacturer calls for a C2S2 mortar that cures rather than dries. All that I could find are heavily modified and I called and asked Cosentino if they could suggest a brand. They just stuck with "use one rated C2S2". I used the Ultralite S2.
Odd stuff, at least different than the Versabond and Ditraset I've some experience with. Mixed about 1/4 bag (more than I needed) using the directions on the package. It is very light compared to a regular mortar. Its also kind of fluffy, imagine marshmallow fluff with some fine grit mixed in. Smells like a mix of cheap vinyl and melted plastic. Its a bit stretchy; I'd put the piece in after burning and back buttering both the slab and the Kerdi, and shift it into place and it would want to move back to where i first put it. Lots of tape used to hold it where I wanted it. Also there was one piece where one side was about 1/8" off level in 4 ft (my fault in the framing) so I used a bit more S2 to level it. One side is a thin layer and the other about 1/8". It will have the weight of the glass on it, so I don't figure on it going anywhere. Any suspected issues to look out for? Also, as a modified, how long should I wait for it to be dry enough to start installing the glass? The slab material is pretty much moisture impervious. Thanks
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2017, 05:54 PM   #125
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Almost there...

More of an update post for those future DIYers that may garner some ideas.
Good progress this past weekend. Got the holes drilled for some of the shower door and grab bar hardware (probably goes in next weekend), picked up and installed the sills & curbs and got the frameless glass hardware glued in (Latapoxy 310 - good stuff). Also, the cabinet guy said maybe February - looking for a new custom cabinet builder but put in a cheapo orange box vanity to use until the permanent stuff gets made. Still need to silicone a few more corners and around the stones.
BTW, the ultralite S2 grey dries pretty close to black vs. the grey Verabond. I'm not seeing the "flexiness" of it - seems darn hard.
Pics are of the shower close to being done and close up of the column that I was concerned about and the glued in guides for the glass. Drilled about 1/2" deep for the screw stubs to glue in and roughed up the polished surface where the epoxy went. Using the core bit in the stone made the drilling of the porcelain seem like butter - the synthetic stone is HARD. I'll post when any questions come up and a few before and after pics when it's all done (maybe almost done as in no vanities yet).
Attached Images
    
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2017, 06:28 PM   #126
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 85,391
Some very nice work there, Jeff.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:02 PM   #127
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Attaching fixtures to tile

When putting the mounting brackets into the tile for grab bars and frameless glass door mounts, how much torque to put on them?
Im using 2 1/2 long 1/4 SS lag screws into wood framing under the tile. When drilling the hole, the core looked like a geology sample - 5/16 porcelain, 3/16 ditraset, Kerdi, 1/16 ditraset, and 1/2 drywall, then wood. I tend to torque the crap outta stuff. I dont want things to loosen up with wet and dry and heating and cooling in the shower, but I also dont want the tile to be at risk of cracking.
Holes drilled, waiting on a helper this weekend to assist with holding and positioning the glass.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2017, 08:14 PM   #128
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 9,425
It all depends on how much your tile can handle, which we don't know. Snug 'em up and let them go. If they start to loosen up, you'll know it wasn't enough.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2017, 06:15 PM   #129
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
It's done! (almost)

But the major stuff is behind me. Got the shower door in today. For those searching on the Vigo Elan door style...it's not as simple as it looks. I measured and remeasured and drilled the mounting holes and epoxied the guide plate prior to recruiting the helper. (The measurements were spot on BTW.) Some caveats for the DIY'er: make sure the mounting rod is absolutely level, not just close. There's not that much adjustment range in the rollers. If you use KF in the mounting holes, making adjustments after the rod is up is a sticky mess. Probably don't need much in the holes as how much water would you be spraying up that high? Also, the vinyl glass cushion gaskets come with double stick tape to keep them in place during tightening. REMOVE THE TAPE and the sticky residue. Not only does it probably eventually get dirty (you can see it through the glass) but is shears off the gasket and oozes out the sides when tightened down, and slips so the adjustments don't quite hold where you put them. Last thing, the bottom bracket on the curb is designed for a level curb. With the sloped curb the inner door is a bit higher than designed so it had a bit of wobble. (I'll bevel and narrow the guide later - also haven't yet installed the silicone sealant or the threshold bar yet, so haven't gotten in there and lathered up yet.)

I've attached "pichers" cause I know y'all like 'em.

The vanities are not in yet; the cabinet guy has 'em slated for around New Year's. Have a temporary big box el cheap-op vanity in there so we can use the room for washing up and such.

I haven't gotten the clear silicone for the glass to tile edges yet, was thinking of using Lexel instead. Thoughts from the gang?

Also, since it took a week less than a year from start to present, of course "she who must be obeyed" chimed in with "If you hired some one they would have had it done in 2 week and probably cost less". 2 weeks - maybe so. Less cost - I'm really doubting that. I got most of the materials at wholesale or with contractor pricing and labor was "free". If any one wants to review through the thread and give me an estimate on what the labor cost would be, I'd love to toss back an "I told you so" moment.

Once I get the vanities, the glass in the rear of the enclosure, and the rest of the base molding tiles in, I'll post before and after pictures. (I think I have some pics of the old bathroom.)

I even turned on the floor heat to see how it does (did testing during the install, but never over a few days of temperature cycling).

Thanks JB and all you guys for the site and the valuable help and info.
Attached Images
      
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2017, 06:43 PM   #130
Houston Remodeler
Pondering retirement daily

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Houston Remodeler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 27,739
Nice work Jeff

Labor rates go anywhere from $500 per day to $1500 a day. How many days did you work on this project?

Glaziers clear caulking is great
__________________
Paul1

For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling


http://CabotAndRowe.com
Houston Remodeler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2017, 11:48 AM   #131
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Thanks for the laugh Paul. I put in pretty much a day each weekend and at least a few more over last year's Thanksgiving and Christmas break; so figure 50 days. $25K in saved labor costs. Both the wife and I were roaring with laughter.
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2017, 09:38 PM   #132
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Lexel fail...

I did some tests with Lexel use for the glass to tile gap junction. I thought “it’s clear, mildew resistant, and not water soluble. It’s dissovable in mineral spirits for tooling and clean up. Sounds ideal.” Well....it’s not. The test bead after curing for a week was still soft. Kind of like a gummy bear left out in the heat. And tacky to collect dirt. It’s clear, so long as you don’t stretch it. Once stretched it does go back to its original shape but loses the clarity and the skin turns cloudy. One thing going for it is it sticks really well. And it’s reasonably priced. That’s 2 things. I’ll find a use for it somewhere.
Got a tube of CRL WCS1 for the edges. Because of various reasons I won’t list here, the wall has a bow and the maximum gap is about 1/8”. Leaving 1/16” gap from the glass to the tile at the narrowest leaves just a tad less than 1/4” at the largest. The silicone is totally clear and very unforgiving of application or tooling errors. (Yup, I read the silicone thread/tutorial.). The narrower parts of the gap went in beautifully but with the wider parts, wherever there was a pressure or motion change, left a shift in the refractive properties, so it looks a bit like cracked glass in places. Attempts to fix it were at best, the same. I thought of taking down the glass and digging it out, cleaning everything off and doing it again. I’d have just enough silicone to do it the second time. I took a step back, put my OCD on the shelf for a moment and realized the enemy of good is perfection. I’m leaving it the way it is. I’ll know it’s there, but no else will notice or care. It doesn’t leak, just isn’t “invisible“.
Tomorrow I’m finally taking a shower in there and not coming out until I’m all pruney. It’s a full year since I started the tear out!
__________________
Jeff

Last edited by cx; 11-25-2017 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Correction at owner's request
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2017, 09:56 PM   #133
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 85,391
Next project just take your time, Jeff. Don't nobody care if it takes a year or more to create a really good shower. Well, not nobody 'cept maybe Mrs. Jeff, of course.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 08:10 PM   #134
Gozo
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 187
Vigo Elan frameless glass enclosure adventures

A not exactly tile related update... When I installed the Vigo Elan model frameless shower doors (months ago) I noticed that the finish on the door handle was more of a dull aluminum finish than the brushed stainless steel. I messaged Vigo and they sent out a replacement. The finish on that replacement was a match to the rest of the hardware so I swapped out the new handle for the old. I snugged it up to what I thought was not too tight (no tools). Either it was, or there was a defect in the glass, because in the middle of the night it sounded like someone fired off a shotgun and then "sloosh" as the thousands of little pieces of tempered glass fell to the floor. What a mess to shovel up and vacuum all the nooks and corners everywhere in the room. Vigo would replace the glass but had none in stock. A new door had to be shipped from China with their next order. It took a while but the new glass arrived and got installed (along with the correct handle again). So why the post? Some lessons learned to pass along:
1) The heavy pulley falling down cracked and chipped the corner of one of the 2x2 floor tiles. I was able to repair the chip with some Latapoxy (I've been finding all sorts of uses for that stuff!) mixed with a sprinkle of copier toner and some of the brown grout powder to get a close shade of greyish to blend with the tiles.
2) For web searchers looking for Vigo installation hints: The roller stop bumpers are not quite square with the rod. I had one that needed just a bit more rubber tire to keep the metal from hitting, and I was going to fabricate something.
Actually, they're that way by design. They need to be installed with the tilt inward on both sides. Since the rod had to come down to get the new glass in, I had the opportunity to flip that one. I was not able to find this install tip anywhere in my web research and certainly it's not mentioned in the directions.
I was please with the positive support from the shower door company. I was 90% expecting "sorry Charlie", but fortunately they stepped right up.
We've been back in the shower without incident. Also, the cabinet carpenter is just getting started on the vanities, so soon with be "done" and will post some before and after pics.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Jeff
Gozo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2018, 09:08 PM   #135
mullet
░░░░░░░
 
mullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,122
Top shelf work Jeff!!!
__________________
chuck
my first Kerdi Shower
mullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
making a good base for wall tile in bathroom islandflyin Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 01-15-2013 12:33 PM
Bathroom Remodel, making shower larger, concrete slab ArbitraryLife Tile Forum/Advice Board 10 12-06-2012 09:01 PM
Making a bathroom shower from a closet mad mike Tile Forum/Advice Board 14 09-17-2009 04:50 AM
Making Bathroom tile Decision? splais Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 07-19-2009 09:55 AM
New Years Resolution - Remodel Shower damnthetorpedos Tile Forum/Advice Board 11 01-02-2005 05:15 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:49 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC