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Old 10-16-2017, 09:18 AM   #16
cx
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Jason, the CBU installation and the waterproofing are separate and distinct functions. You finish one completely before starting the next. You must finish the joints in the CBU per the manufacturer's instructions, including alkali resistant mesh tape and thinset mortar and let that cure. Then you would install your liquid-applied waterproofing, including reinforcing fabric if called for.

The exception to that would be if you're using a sheet-type membrane, which would be installed without first finishing the CBU joints.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 10-18-2017, 01:37 PM   #17
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This might be a silly question but I have two studs set in an L shape where the tail end is the stud past the edge of the tub and the other is where the tub is anchored. The edge stud has the furring strip on it and is plumb. The other stud is not quite plumb and isn't quite straight. As I was planning on attaching Durock only to the plumb stud it will leave a slight gap, about 1/4" to 3/8" gap between Durock and the other stud. It also happens to be the stud where I would be attaching a swinging glass door. The screws would go through the tile and Durock into the stud, but what about the gap. Can a can of foam be used to fill the space without bowing out Durock and have enough support behind it? I feel like it's going to be next to impossible to fur out the stud that's not plumb or straight.

EDIT: I might have answered my own silly question to some degree as I don't think I can actually get the foam back there, unless I can do a 180* with my hand/can and control the point of where I spray blind.
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:47 PM   #18
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Ok folks, next question. First restating what I am dealing with as a refresher. Basement bath on concrete slab. Tub, toilet and pedestal sink. About 25 sq ft of floor space. Original plan was Ditra and marble 3" hex over it. The floor isnt quite flat so I started looking at SLC such as Ardex Liquid Backer board. I think poor shouldn't be an issue given the space size and it not being all that bad in terms of level/flatness. Ardex says 32.5 sq ft per bag at 1/4" so sounds like one bag ought to be enough.

So, given all this,

1. Do I need Ditra? Couldn't I poor Ardex and set tile right over it?
2. Is waterproofing needed on slab? If so, could I use Hydroban? I have two small buckets, and I thought I needed just over 1 for tub surround up to ceiling.
3. Ardex LBB will decouple or no? I saw a document from Ardex saying LBB could be poured over Ditra. Is that better?
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Old 10-30-2017, 06:56 PM   #19
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1. Needed, no. Yes, you may need to prime first, cant remember off hand but pouring an SLU then tiling over that is perfectly acceptable. Ditra is nice but isn't mandatory in your case.

2. Not really, you can if you want but personally I wouldn't waste the material to do it.

3. No. You can pour over ditra but in my mind you lose the Uncoupling properties of the ditra when doing so.
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:03 PM   #20
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Ryan,

Thanks. So, if LBB has no uncoupling property so wouldn't I be exposing my install to potential issues? As for Hydroban I was thinking it would protect both the slab from any water as well as the marble from any possible moisture from below, although I don't really see any evidence of it presently.
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:09 PM   #21
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If you allow for perimeter expansion using a foam sill sealer or similar, and prep the substrate properly there is little risk. Unless there is a high potential for movement within the slab itself it shouldnt be a problem. If you want to use ditra I would pour the SLU first then install the ditra above it. This is just my opinion. I could see the ditra still giving some Uncoupling properties even after a pour on top, but I would prefer to have my ditra on top.
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Old 10-30-2017, 07:17 PM   #22
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I see, thanks
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Old 11-24-2017, 10:16 AM   #23
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Calling all subway tile gurus

The back wall of the tub enclosure is 58 3/16". I will be putting on glass subway which is 6" wide inclusive of 1/16" joint. This gives me 6" x 9 = 54" of full tiles, leaving ~4". Considering the sides of the tub will be getting larger marble tiles, I won't be wrapping the corner and the marble will cover about .5" on each side of the glass leaving about 1 1/2" wide tiles on the cut ends if I started centered. Or, should I shift the layout and leave larger cuts and have it be assymetrical?
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Old 11-25-2017, 01:52 PM   #24
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Are you stacking them or using a typical subway offset? There's 2 ways to center, grout line or center of the tile.
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Old 11-25-2017, 02:02 PM   #25
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normal subway pattern. Looks like I would center on the joint which would leave me with 5" pieces on both ends for one row (58 = 6x8 + 5x2) and 2" on both ends for the other (centered on the tile) row (58 = 6x9 + 2x2).

Nervous as hell starting out.
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Old 11-25-2017, 02:25 PM   #26
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So if 57-1/4" of the back wall will show, then with a 6" repeat, you could do a 50% offset and have 1-5/8" visible end tiles on one row and 4-5/8" visible end tiles on the next row.

Or, if you are willing to fudge the 50% offset, you could do a single 3-1/4" visible end tile on each row. That'd be a 54% offset. :-)

Or you could fir out one of the two side walls 1/4" and do a single 3" end cut tile on each row with a true 50% offset. In which case you had best check that your side wall tile buildup will be a full 15/32", or adjust accordingly, and that both side walls are plumb.

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Old 11-25-2017, 02:59 PM   #27
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There will be no (more) furring going on
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Old 11-25-2017, 03:08 PM   #28
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Another option would be to stretch the grout joint to 3/32", that would take up another 1/4" or so. I'm just throwing the option out there, I don't have any opinion on which way you should go.

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Old 11-25-2017, 05:13 PM   #29
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Thanks. I definitely don't want to go wider on the joint as it's already wider than actual because of slightly rounded tops. Plus, if I lost another 1/4" wouldn't I have move of a sliver with 50% offset?
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Old 11-25-2017, 08:14 PM   #30
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No, the point of losing another 1/4" (if your side walls really take up almost 1/2" with tile and thinset) is to reduce the visible portion of the back wall to 57" exactly (or maybe 56-15/16" would be better). That lets you do an exact 50% offset with no slivers, each row would have one 3" tile at one end, alternating ends.

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