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Old 07-07-2016, 11:07 AM   #1
BTE
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My first bathroom renovation

Hello everyone, my name is Brian. I have been lurking around this site for advice on my project, but I figured it would be easier to address any questions within a build thread. Plus who doesn't like pictures of progress, right??

I recently purchased my first home and decided to fix the bathroom before I moved in since it is the only shower in the house. The house was built in 1939 and the bathroom originally had tile on the walls and shower, but it was removed some time ago. My plan is to bring it back to something similar to that, with a pinwheel mosaic floor and 3x6 subway tile walls/shower.

Anyway, this is what I started out with: 4 layers of vinyl flooring and painted walls with a fiberglass tub surround. After removal of the flooring, it was discovered that the subfloor had some spots of rot under the toilet from a previous leak. The boards were dry, so I assume it was a while ago. Once the rotten wood was removed, I also found a hole in the side of the original lead closet flange pipe (pictured). This was a blessing in disguise because it would have been a pain to fix later on.

So after sourcing 3/4 x 2 1/4" boards and repairing the closet flange/pipe, I was able to replace the rotten parts of the subfloor. The new pieces were screwed to the joists with corrosion resistant screws. After the subfloor was repaired, I laid 1/4" Hardibacker as per their instructions.

This is where I am currently. My plan is now to remove the fiberglass shower surround and drywall in preparation for 1/2" Hardie and the like. However, I am having a difficult time deciding the proper way to prep the shower surround. After much research, I have a general idea of what I should do and would like some advice on it. My plan is to start by insulating the wall cavities (2 walls are outside walls) with non-backed insulation. From there, I will be using a plastic vapor barrier, affixed to the studs and overlapping the tub flange (the vapor barrier will only go as high as the CBU). After that, the Hardiebacker will be screwed to the studs and any joints taped up. Then tile over that.

Does this sound like a good plan? Is there anything that I may be missing?
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:02 PM   #2
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Did you check your joists for deflection before subflooring? Did you thinset that Hardi down? Tape the joints, looks to need more screws also ..
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:31 PM   #3
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Yes, the joists were solid.
I used thinset under the Hardie and I added the rest of the screws after this picture was taken (I ran out and had to go back to the store).
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:35 PM   #4
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Plank subflooring isn't an accepted substrate. You'll need to add at least 1/2" CC plywood (or better) over the planks before the ceement board went down.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
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Old 07-07-2016, 12:49 PM   #5
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Why is that?
Can the Devil's advocate ask what would be the worst case scenario if it is left as-is?
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:23 PM   #6
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The tiles stand a far greater chance of popping off the floor. The individual planks will move between the joists far greater than the planks with plywood properly installed.

added 1/2" CC or better is the bare minimum to add to the top . Thicker is better. If you can't handle the added height, saw out the planks and install 3/4" T&G CC or better over the joists.
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:32 PM   #7
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If I tear out the existing floor and use 3/4" ply, how do I handle the section of planks that support the tub? Can I cut them close and leave a section of them? Or do I have to pull everything out from under the tub?
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:37 PM   #8
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We install an extra joist or two along the edge of the tub. One joist to catch the edges of the old planks, one to catch the edge of the new plywood. If the joists run in the other direction, blocking is added.
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:29 PM   #9
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Won't I now have to be concerned with that transition and relative movement creating issues down the road? The nearest joist away from the tub can be seen in the pictures.
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:39 PM   #10
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Can you highlight the layout of the floor joists? I got some awful glare on the monitor right now.
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:34 AM   #11
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They run parallel to the length of the tub. The first joist outside of the tub starts about 3"-4" from the face (with the 2x4 sistered to it and intersecting the HVAC vent). The first two from there are 16" on center, the third is less than 16" OC, and then the rest are all 16" on center.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:46 PM   #12
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So I have torn out the fiberglass shower panels that were glued to the drywall, the drywall and original insulation. I am at the point where I am ready to install the CBU and I have a few questions.

1) My plan is to space the wall studs out 1/8" since I will need to match the 5/8" drywall. I plan to rip strips from a 2x4 and nail them in. Does this sound like the proper way to go about this?

2) Once the studs are spaced properly, I will lay non-foil backed isulation between the studs and staple 4mil or greater plastic to the studs and over the lip of the tub, securing it with silicone or similar. Then the CBU, then tape the seams to the drywall and adjacent CBU. Is there anything I may be missing?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-12-2016, 06:35 AM   #13
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Does this sound correct? I am planning to button up the walls this week and want to be sure I am not missing anything.
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