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Old 01-21-2016, 02:35 PM   #76
dhagin
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1. what tiles on the walls?

2. yes, use Schluters screws.
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:52 PM   #77
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We are using 2.5" x 8.5" subway. See attached rendering (doesn't show the situation perfectly, but its the only angle I have at the moment)
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:00 PM   #78
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Once the tub is set, start working your layout to leave full tiles top & bottom. If you can do this, I think the 1/4 won't be an issue. You will likely have imperfections in the tub deck as well - meaning it may vary from perfectly level all the way around - so take your time to find exactly what you have so you can adjust as necessary.

Depending on what you find, it may look best to just stop the tile down the wall a bit...
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:25 PM   #79
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What is the suggested height for waterproofing above the shower head outlet?
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:47 PM   #80
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A few inches above the shower head is fine. You can take it higher if you want.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:53 PM   #81
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its been our long standing practice to waterproof everywhere the tile goes, unless its wainscotting.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:32 PM   #82
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Am I planning this the right way? Below are two images of my layout. First image shows tub, kerdiboard (orange), existing wall (white), and new drywall (gray).

For scale, the vertical kerdiboard piece along the skirt of the tub is 3"x15".

The design intent is to have the tiles terminate before the corner of the new drywall and the existing wall(second pic).

I assume I had to stop the kerdiboard short of that corner, and add that new long gray vertical strip of drywall so it can be painted. The tiles overlap the transition between the kerdiboard and drywall by about an 1".

Assuming there is a metal corner bead, I figure I need about 4" of space to allow for mud before the tiles.

Thoughts on this plan?

Second question: How do I wrap kerdiband around that large radius on the front edge of the the tub and down the skirt?
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Old 01-22-2016, 01:23 PM   #83
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Quote:
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Assuming there is a metal corner bead, I figure I need about 4" of space to allow for mud before the tiles.
I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by this. If you mean the space between the corner bead and the tiles, you can make that space as wide or narrow as you want. The rest of your plan looks fine.

I would use a strip of Kerdi or Kerdi band a little over 2" wide to bridge the junction between the board and tub. Use a separate vertical strip on the tub leg. Attach it to the tub with a bead of silicone or Kerdi fix.
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Old 01-22-2016, 01:35 PM   #84
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Yes, I meant the space between the corner bead and where the tiles start. I was allowing for a about 4" of space to allow the wall to go back to "flat" after the mud is applied to the corner bead (always flares out cause of the bead being "out" from the corner).

Hope that makes more sense......

Do I need to kerdiband the transition on the vertical edge where the gray drywall meets the kerdiboard? Does it need anything at all?
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:26 PM   #85
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Do I need to kerdiband the transition on the vertical edge where the gray drywall meets the kerdiboard? Does it need anything at all?
No & no. We typically run our waterproofing and tile to those corners though, and seal everything. Those little short exposed areas take a lot of abuse, so we like to cover em with tile.

KerdiBand *all* edges of the tub against the walls and seal them as described in the Schluters Shower Handbook. Those vertical legs are prone to water gettin in there and doin a number on the framing. Don't forget to seal around the bottom of those legs and the bottom of the tub skirt too, for the same reasons.
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:57 PM   #86
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If I would run my kerdiboard and tile to that edge, how do you build and seal that corner? Use corner bead? Wrap kerdi and around the corner?
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:04 AM   #87
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We use plastic corner bead to avoid rust. Run Kerdi Band up to about 1/4" or so from the corner, then tile to about 1/8" or so from the corner, then a bead of caulk from tile to corner.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:53 AM   #88
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So I assume no drywall mud on the tile side of the plastic corner bead? Does that last column of tile not sit flat cause it has to go over the corner bead?
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:47 AM   #89
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If you want to use a corner bead, get it installed and bedded before you start tiling. Any bedding that needs to be done in the tile area is best to do with thinset in my opinion. That way you can mud it 12 inches wide or more, feathering it down to nothing behind the tiles.
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Old 01-25-2016, 02:05 PM   #90
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Doesn't "mudding" with any material make the surface that tile is going on non flat?
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