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Old 01-12-2016, 12:00 AM   #61
t2jeff
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Sounds like those shims are a good idea for leveling as well as spreading the load compared to a little pointy foot. How the heck do you add or subtract or even initially place those shims when you have 400lbs of iron above it?
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:06 AM   #62
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Place them over the dents in the plywood from the dry fit.
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:12 AM   #63
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Some tubs have spec sheets that show where the feet are. If not, we typically flip the tub over and 'map' out where they are by measuring from the end and side wall. Much easier than setting the tub 2 or 3x, to me anyhow.

edit to add; They typically grind the feet flat & even with each other - verify this. Once you have the location of the feet, you can simply level the shims up to each other. Screw any ply to the floor, place screws around the steel shims to hold in place. It's still a big PITA with all that weight. We sometimes place a couple 2x4's on the floor to help "slide" & maneuver the tub into place, then remove them when you get close. The word "slide" is used loosely here. Get some young big friends to help, supply beer & food as necessary.
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Old 01-12-2016, 04:02 PM   #64
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I wonder how some of those plastic furniture moving disks might work to help slide the thing? Never tried it, but they're cheap. They do make moving heavy furniture much easier.
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:21 PM   #65
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Thank you for the tips. Willing to try all of the above.....
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:29 PM   #66
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Next question......confirming that Versabond is ok for underneath both Ditra and Kerdi. And above it as well! I know it voids warranty......

Right?
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:53 PM   #67
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Jeff's Bath Remodel

About to kick off our 90 sq ft bath remodel. I've asked lots of questions here and now ready to pull the trigger on the job. Ordering the last of the materials with a hopeful start date of 4 weeks from now.

I wanted to start a new thread to consolidate all of my upcoming questions and pics. Here we go......

1. Is it typical to mechanically attach a new cast iron tub to the framing (screw and washer) at the flange? There isn't much of a flange on our selected tub (Kohler Bellwether 66x32), more like a 1/2" tall quarter round.

2. To confirm, planning on Ditra for the floor. Versabond is ok for this?

3. What is the typical method for handling a kerdiboard to drywall transition? Kerdi band between the two materials with thinset? Or do I need to even do anything? Planning on running my tile a couple inches past the end of the kerdiboard.

4. Debating if I should float my kerdiboard plumb with thinset behind it on the framing or sister the existing framing (not sure if this is needed, but existing walls are plaster and anything but straight, so planning for this step right now)?

Lots more to follow!
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:35 PM   #68
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I'll combine all your previous threads about this project here, Jeff, so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered.

1. What does the tub manufacturer say about attachment? I've never attached a CI tub, best I can recall.

2. If you're attaching it to a wood subfloor, that would be an acceptable thinset mortar.

3. It must be outside the wet area and you can use drywall material to make it easier to finish.

4. You do not want to use any thinset mortar on the studs. If your walls need to be plumbed, do that by moving the existing framing or adding additional framing.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:51 PM   #69
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1. There is no spec for attachment on their website. Maybe more info will come with the tub? (yet to arrive). I can't imagine mechanically loading cast iron to avoid cracking it. Additional input please......

2. Yes, over 3/4 ply, exterior glue, no grade lower than C. (New plywood is going over existing diagonal 1x6's sitting on existing joists) Planning on 1/8 spacing between sheets with 1/4 spacing on the perimeter, correct? Currently passes Deflecto.

3. Yes, its outside the wet area. When you say "drywall material", I assume you mean drywall mud instead of thinset?

4. OK, will sister the framing if needed.
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:12 PM   #70
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What specific tub do you have? Gotta link?
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:26 PM   #71
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Link to the tub:

http://www.us.kohler.com/us/Bellweth...brandId=656446
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:41 PM   #72
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Couldn't find the K-848 manual, it may be a newer number. Here's a few other manuals for Kohler c.i. tubs, which will be similar.

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatal.../1084177_2.pdf

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/895...ge-K-1172.html
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:52 PM   #73
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The Bellwether has install instructions for the 60x32, which match the Kohler link dhagin posted, but nothing for the 66x32.

However, the 60x32 instructions say nothing about attachment. Safe to assume the weight of the tube holds it in place?
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:29 PM   #74
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Yep. Those &^^%%%% are &&((()!@# heavy.
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Old 01-21-2016, 12:14 AM   #75
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Next question:

1. The design intent for our new tile work has the tile going to the ceiling in the tub/shower surround. After checking the original plaster ceiling with a 4ft level, it looks like varies up to a 1/4" along the long length of where the tub will sit.

How is this situation handled? True up the ceiling? Cut the last row of tile to custom fit the ceiling? Stop the tiles short of the ceiling?

2. Do you need to buy Schluter's screws for kerdiboard attachment to wood framing? I know the washers are a must, but would a box of SS steels work instead of Schluter's?
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