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Old 01-11-2016, 03:57 PM   #46
cx
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Jeff, I've moved your question form the other visitor's unrelated project here to your project to avoid confusion.

The Kerdi is pretty tough. How careful do you hafta be? Well, careful enough not to cut holes in it. You'll get an immediate feel for it once you get some in hand and try putting it on the wall.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #47
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Since we are on the topic of kerdi, how do most handle the thinned edge on drywall sheets when trying to create a nice flat surface for the kerdi. I see you dont want dywall mud under the kerdi. Do you fill this in with thinset or cut off the thin sections before mounting on the wall?
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:44 PM   #48
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Use this one and set your live/dead loads with the drop-down lists.

http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/c...tware/spancalc
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:01 PM   #49
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Jeff, you can fill the taped "paper edges" of your drywall with drywall mud (per Schluter's recommendation) or with thinset mortar if you prefer. It is not necessary to tape that, or any other, joint to be covered with Kerdi.

Many of us pay no attention to that depression at all and simply let it fill with thinset mortar when applying the Kerdi. If you use a wide trowel or drywall knife, you can simple straddle that joint when embedding your Kerdi and it will take care of itself. If you're using large tiles on the wall, that joint won't effect your installation even if it remains slightly depressed.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:18 PM   #50
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400 is about right for a 60x32 without water. Add amount of water it holds to overflow x 8#/gal, plus person and you have total dead weight. Also, realize most c.i. tubs sit on just 4 points. So, divide total by 4, then you'll have dead load on those points it rests on.

Is the floor open from above or below? If so, add 2x blocking or another joist where the "feet" hit and carry on. No worries.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:51 PM   #51
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Huh, didn't know mud was ok there. Probably will just fill with thinset during the kerdi process to keep it simple.

Next question:

I want to create a shelf along the back of my tub. Any special considerations that need to be addressed for something like this? I know the shelf should be sloped into the tub. Plan was to kerdi all surfaces, tile, then place shelf (caeserstone). Thoughts?
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:01 PM   #52
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Total deadload is 1007lbs (tub, water, me).

Floor is open from below (crawlspace). Add joists or sister existing ones?
How/ where does the 2x blocking go?
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:09 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana, Post #3
add 2x blocking or another joist where the "feet" hit
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:16 PM   #54
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Kerdi board or similar material works great.

You can also make an indent with the framing.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:16 PM   #55
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Let me ask it a different way.......does the blocking go perpendicular to the floor joists or some other arrangement?
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:22 PM   #56
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Perpendicular.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:24 PM   #57
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Joist hangers would be nice, or a parallel 2x4 nailer below the blocking. I don't like to rely on toe nails or end nails alone. Screws are better, but nothing beats a joist hanger.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:28 PM   #58
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I like the idea of hangers.....thanks all for the input!
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:19 PM   #59
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WOod ends up being somewhat like a fluid, and with extended loads applied, will flow or bend more than the initial load would create. A tub with water and a person(s) inside is a transient load, and the joists tend to recover once they've reached their initial set from the unloaded weight. A constant load, on the other hand, needs additional support.
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:08 PM   #60
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I know you didn't ask, but we set c.i. tubs on steel shims about 1/8 x 4 x 4". Those feet are often pretty small, so this keeps them from damaging the ply. Those feet are also how you level those tubs, so we use different thickness plywood pieces under the steel shims if needed.
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