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Old 05-26-2015, 10:42 AM   #1
cenergy
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Bullnose at 90 degrees

Hi - Started a thread a while back but (couldn't find) am now at the end of the project. I used 3 x 6 subway tile in a shower with a 12" x 12" niche recessed in the wall. I planned accordingly , and have all the grout lines lined up to continue the subway pattern into the niche.

I want to use a same style bullnose for the inner perimeter to meet up with the outside wall. I quickly recognized that a bullnose does not meet a bullnose at 90 degree angle.

What do you guys do to make this look right?

My wife does not want to use any other tile other than the subway tile as I suggested a piece of marble at the bottom and top. She wasn't having it.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:15 AM   #2
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A bullnose typically goes in front of a regular piece of tile to cover up the edge of the other tile and make a nice corner. You can see lots of examples on this forum if you search.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:45 AM   #3
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Yes but how do you make two bull noses look good in the corners.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:47 AM   #4
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Is the bullnose already installed inside the niche? Do you have pictures?

Search for a thread called "niche pictures".
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:35 PM   #5
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2 bullnoses put together usually creates a funky, semi-rounded corner that is unattractive. Using one bullnose to cover the hard edge of the field tile is the way to go.
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:58 PM   #6
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CB, I'm thinkin' you mean the inside corners where top and side meet...no?

Three choices, maybe more I'm not aware of.

1. Butt. Leave a normal grout joint where two planes meet. Fill odd shaped triangle described by the tiles with grout. This is probably the most common.

2. Miter. Just about have to used a tile saw. A little fussy to get looking good, especially if your bottom (sill) is sloped.

3. Cope. Same as coping baseboards or crown molding. Probably the hardest to do, but perhaps the best looking when done well. Looks like a miter for the most part so if I don't do butts, I'd probably miter 'cuz it's faster.

Here's a photo of recent job, wish it were a close-up. Although not quite the same as yours if I'm understanding you right, it does show butt joints at corners. Honestly, I gauge how I do it according to client in some cases.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:42 PM   #7
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I'm not sure what you mean but maybe you are asking about where they meet at a corner on the same plane...In that case I think the options are a special corner bullnose piece or mitering the two bullnoses to meet at a 45.

Or maybe you are talking about the where the side walls of the niche meet the main wall of the shower? In that case you can use one bullnose to cover the edge of the other tile - so only one bullnose gets used at that position, not two.

Like post #4 here, sort of. Maybe?

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/....php?p=1158063

Edit: now that I actually read Mr. Tooth's response, I think he's probably got it right...the wall tiles aren't bullnose, but the side walls are, and cover the cut edges of the tiles on the wall.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:56 AM   #8
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Thanks - Sorry I wasn't more clear. What carbidetooth responded to was what I was going for.

It's where the top (or bottom) and sides meet inside the niche.

If I was able to mitre correctly I would do that. I've done it with wood moldings a bunch of times but can't seem to grasp the concept with a tile. The saw I have does tilt at 45 degrees.

Any tips?
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:46 PM   #9
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Does this help? You're mitering the width (depth) of the niche.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:50 PM   #10
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Evidently I can't edit to add a view. Anyway, capiche now?
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:07 AM   #11
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Yes - That's it. Now to figure this out on my saw.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:50 AM   #12
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Most saws should be able to do a 45 degree miter cut, either by tilting the head or with some support block.

I'll point out one thing that helped me when I did this. You can dry fit these pieces once you've cut them, but they all end up being a little closer together once the thinset is underneath them. That means that all the corner joints will be a little tighter. To closer mimic what it'd looked like with thinset behind them, I taped pennies (any shim of the right thickness would work) to the niche sides/bottom/top so I could fine tune the cuts.

The most challenging cuts are for the two bottom corners, assuming the bottom bullnose is sloped toward the drain. Then you have a compound bevel on those corners.

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Old 09-03-2015, 08:04 AM   #13
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Angry Can my shower niche bullnose be salvaged?

I had this shower niche installed by my contractor. Unfortunately, now that it has been grouted, it is clear that the bull nose sticks out too far past the wall field tile. Now I can see the brown underside of the ceramic all around the borders.

Is this salvageable? Is this normal? Do I have them tear it out and start over or can grout solve the problem? Looks to me like a case of poor planning that needs to be redone, but I could be wrong.
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Old 09-03-2015, 08:06 AM   #14
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Can my shower niche bullnose tile be salvaged?

Sorry - previous post did not upload attachments:

I had this shower niche installed by my contractor. Unfortunately, now that it has been grouted, it is clear that the bull nose sticks out too far past the wall field tile. Now I can see the brown underside of the ceramic all around the borders.

Is this salvageable? Is this normal? Do I have them tear it out and start over or can grout solve the problem? Looks to me like a case of poor planning that needs to be redone, but I could be wrong.
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Old 09-03-2015, 06:32 PM   #15
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The grout looks to be unsanded and the joint seems to be a little wide in places. It's possible that the grout could be cut out and re-grouted fuller. If the bullnose tiles are sticking out too far, there's nothing you can do except to replace them. The low joints is making it look worse.
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