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Old 01-05-2002, 12:32 AM   #1
Gene Beery
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Walnut Creek
Posts: 42
Have you all visited John's US History page and links? Wonderful! Lots of early documents which when read show the mind set of our founding fathers who formed this country. I was looking for the document which we sent on to King George stating our 23 grievences as British subjects living here in the colonies: there it was: Fairfax County Resolves. Visit this area if you haven't. A great site for students. Well, on to my question.

What is the best way to handle center cutting large ceramic tiles (Airstone 13x13 ceramic tile)?
1. Plumbing holes (shower out let)
2. Plumbing holes (thermostaic mixing valve - Kohler)(large)
3. Inset smaller tile within larger tile (Questech Metal Decrative 6x6: Shells-Brass).

This job is a bathroom remodel/full tear out and replacement: cabinets, vanity, toilet, tub and exsiting tile. The new job consist of:
(a)Full tile (floor to ceiling) in the shower(4x4 'Leonardo' for floor and 13x13 on walls & bench) and on the bathroom floor(13x13 diagonal).
(b)6x6 metal decratives (sea shells) are to be placed center with in the 13x13 ceramics as acsent tiles (6 or 8).
(c)Also a 3" metal horizontal decrative band (ocean waves) wraps the three inside walls of the shower. Glass slider finishes off the enclosure.
(d)Bathroom floor to be tiled 13x13 Diagonal
(e)Set cabinets and finish trim.
At least one other question: (4)How or with what should the tile be grouted with? Oh, that brings up another question5) standered or epoxy grout? Pro' Con's? ( The spacing will be 1/8 on the 13x13. 1/4 to 1/8 on the 4x4's)(6) How shall the metal tiles be best protected during install and grouting? Tape?? Help here------

Note 1: these metal tiles have a resin filled back and a relief front which brass is layed over.

Note 2: This job started in November. Clients wanted to 'save money' and expodite their job: ordering and going to the hardware store and here is the big one 'lend a hand when ever it was needed'(I've yet to see that hand "when ever'...). Do to ordering mess ups (3 day order has taken 7 weeks and we are still waiting for parts and peaces - Kohler trim) and back orders for plumbing fixtures, I had to pull off the job for 5 weeks because I couldn't rough set the thermostaic control valve and finish the plumbing.
The new extior-door hasn't arrived yet-setting tile Monday?!
Note 3: I own a Makita Cordless Tile/Glass Saw if this helps
as a process for cutting effectively

Thank You For Helping me out.........


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Old 01-05-2002, 10:35 AM   #2
Bud Cline
Tile Contractor -- Central Nebraska
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Central Nebraska
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I charge extra when the customer wants to "Lend A Hand"!
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Old 01-05-2002, 08:35 PM   #3
Jason_Butler
Tile Setter
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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Hi Gene,

I could write a book on the "I'll help, lend a hand, expedite the job" theory. I did a rather large job on new construction recently. Tile either wasn't chosen, ordered, delivered, right color, right trim.....you get the picture.

In the future, I will charge a trip fee in any case where the customer has accepted responsibility for materials and the job has been delayed.

As far as interior cuts In tile I use the following:

1. Shower head cutouts can be done with a carbide hole saw. This doesn't work well on porcelain though - too hard

2. Larger interior cutout such as toliet flanges, floor plugs,even bathtub faucets usually lend themsleves to a grinder with a 4" dry diamond blade.

3. As for the tile insets, I would try the grinder then nipper for the corners.

Occasional I use a rotozip tool for the tedious work

Jason
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Old 01-05-2002, 09:32 PM   #4
Gene Beery
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Walnut Creek
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Talking

Bud, Please give me your rate sheet call out for 'Helping Customers'. I think you could subsidise your day job!!!!

Jason, Thanks for input. Have you ever had success with a 'tile blade' on a jig saw for the larger cuts?

Is the use of the grinder because of the high RPM or will any 4" diamond blade do?

Thanks
What Do you think of a MK 660 for 375.00?
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Old 01-06-2002, 10:47 AM   #5
John Bridge
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The cheapest, easiest way to get the holes is as Jason described. My helper does it routinely with a 10 inch blade, but he's experience in the process with that tool. a 4-inch blade would make it much easier. Cut through the back of the tile until the blade barely breaks the surface. It's very easy to over-shoot.

Those metallic tiles worry me to death. I think it's a screw up. There is virtually no way to clean them without messing them up. Hell, it's hard to grout around them without messing them up.
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Old 01-06-2002, 12:52 PM   #6
Gene Beery
 
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John,
Try this on for size concerning the 6x6 accent and 3x12 belly band metal tiles. What if I cut the 6x6 centers out of the 13x13 and used wood 3 1/16 spacers where the belly band goes, set the wall, grout with a sand grout. Come back later and set the fancie tiles and belly band. Instead of grout using chaulk around them. What do you think?
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Old 01-06-2002, 02:34 PM   #7
John Bridge
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Uh, Gene,

Can I interest you in a career in photography?



Are they going in the shower or not?
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Old 01-06-2002, 11:33 PM   #8
Gene Beery
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Walnut Creek
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Yes on both accounts!

There are six 6x6 brass accent tiles that are set into the back and side walls of the shower (the 13x13 tiles,which are accually floor tiles, are being put on the wall, but what can you tell a client when they have thier little heart set on something? To blame shift (which I read was okay on this forum)the clients came along with the accent tile idea also from some Home decrative showroom (I'm just the messanger (I picked that up here too on your forum)(I'm learning so much here).

So, I would LOVE a job as a Pro shutterbug: show me the way!
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Old 01-07-2002, 06:08 AM   #9
John Bridge
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You can make interior cuts in the large tiles the way we've discussed -- from the back side of the piece. They are called plunge cuts, and you will need a saw that is set up for this (most 10 in. saws are).

Do me a favor. Just rub your finger across the face of one of those matallics and tell me whether you see surface abrasion. It'll look like a smudge, but it will be scratches. They probably say the display at Home Depot Expo.
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Old 01-08-2002, 10:10 PM   #10
Gene Beery
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Walnut Creek
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John,

These 'metallics' are from Home Expo. $86.00 dollars for 3. I did the wet test however and I did not see any abrasions however I am aware that the differance in polish is the size of the scratch left by the abrasive 'polish' used. The finish on these tiles is a brass betine 'antique brass'. The betine process is done after the polish so maybe the abration marks only show on the bright brass finish?

I have and do enjoy both forms of photography (hardfilm and digital). I too have a Mavica: 14x (storage is cheap)along with my Nikon F3 and Mamiya RB67. I have looked into the Nikon D's but $,$$$.$$. (As soon as I land that big job and can write it into the contract). What type of editing soft ware do you use for you pictures? Currently I use Photoshop 5.

Recently I did an Edward Weston Workshop put on by his son and grandson, Cole and Kim Weston at the old Wildcat Hill home of Edward and Charis in Carmel Highlands. Spent time in Carmel, Garapapa Canyon (Cole's home)and Weston Beach at Point Lobos State Park, as well as dinner at Wildcat Hill were Kim and his family live now. It was very exciting to be able to see and carefully handle the old Master's 8x10 negatives which are housed in the family vault. Quite a family in the history of photography in the United States.

Thank You for All the Help and Advice from EVERYONE!
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