Tiling to exterior threshold

[Mary2175]

Hello,
I have a question, I want to tile my living room and I have an exterior door that opens out. I know when the door opens in, the back of the threshold is about 1 in tall and you can just tile right to it. The issue I have is that the door opens out so the portion of the threshold on the inside is curved down.
How should I deal with this?
Thanks
Mary

[Kman]

Can you attach a picture of the threshold? Might give us an idea of what were looking out and allow us to answer your question better.

[Lakee911]

Threshold should sit on top of the finish floor ... or be shimmed/furred up to that height.

[Bodie Powers]

Mary, the only solution I can think of is to add a wooden transition piece between the tile and the bullnose threshold, same as you would do between tile to wood flooring etc transitions in the house, something like this:

[Mary2175]

Here's a picture of what I am saying. I have about 3/4" from the top of the threshold to the concrete floor.
My tile is 3/8 and with 1/2 thinset I may be right at the top. I was thinking of cutting a back bevel and run it into the threshold and caulking the joint. The 3/4" clearance isn't a lot of wiggle room. I also may have to replace the door and raise the threshold up . I can't have the tile higher that the top of the threshold.
Also what thinset should I use? I want to be able to go the Home Depot or lowes and buy as I need.
Thanks for any advice
Mary

[Kman]

I can't tell for sure from your picture, but it looks like you have a stand-alone threshold there, so you can replace it without affecting the door frame.

If that's the case, I would probably go with something like this from Schluter to bridge the gap and still allow for expansion.

[Mary2175]

Hi again!
I have removed all the carpets and the slab is looking very good. The finish was with a steel trowel so its a mirror finish. I would prefer a broom finish so I would get a better bite but it level so I can't complain. I do have a very small crack . I don't know if its all the way thru but its level I would say its about 1/32 and doesn't ride the entire room. The house is 42 yrs old and its Florida so no frost heave. Is this acceptable to leave?
I am using 20 x 20 porcelain 3/8 thick. I was looking today for the thin set and am really confused! here's what is available to me

Mapei ultra flex 1 & 2
North American adhesives contact plus
Mapei Porcelain Mortar
Mapei Large tile & stone
Versabond fortified thin set mortar
Custom Medium bed 2
Custom Flexbond Mortar crack prevention mortar
Prolite large format & stone mortar
Custom Porcelain tile Mortar

The porcelain tile is a light natural color. Do I need white or gray thinset?

Thanks
Mary

[Bodie Powers]

Kevin, that link is to a transition "T"....I see no need to replace the threshold with that solution. Same as I suggested in Post #4 except I assumed a wood threshold. That Schluter metal T in your might look better with that aluminum threshold.

[Bodie Powers]

Mary, I suggest some form of anti-fracture membrane as insurance against that slab crack. The pro's can recommend a thinset best suited to that steel finished slab (without having to scarify).

I favor grout that best matches the tile in color and shade, if that helps. From a maintenance perspective, a darker grout might perform better than white on a floor application.

[reefone]

I would want to run over that floor with a cup wheel to rough up the surface so the thinset has something too really bit into. it wouldn't need much just enough to break that sheen.

white thinset is what id use on a light natural color. I use custom building products a lot.out of the choices you listed I would choose the medium bed,flexbond or prolite. I don't think you can go wrong with any of those but id probably use the flexbond.