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Old 01-07-2014, 10:29 PM   #61
cx
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Center of one fastener to the center of the next, Louis.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:34 AM   #62
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Got it. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2014, 11:09 AM   #63
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Subfloor & Partition Wall Sequence

Is there any particular reason I can't put up a new partition wall before putting down the subflooring?

I don't believe that is the preferred approach but it will make it a lot easier for me to install plumbing and electrical into the wall without the subflooring in the way. I recognize this will require a bit more blocking for the subfloor support but that is easy enough.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:15 PM   #64
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It's not standard practice, but I'm not aware of a code restriction prohibiting building the non-load bearing interior wall directly on the floor joists. We've got some savvy builders here (CX being among that crowd) that may offer a better answer.

From a practical standpoint, your subfloor would cover a good portion of the sole plate, making it difficult to attach drywall without adding blocking between every stud.

Why are you not able to run your electrical/plumbing prior to laying the subfloor? Can't you just stub it out above the floor and make the final runs/connections after the interior wall is constructed?
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:33 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodie Powers
From a practical standpoint, your subfloor would cover a good portion of the sole plate, making it difficult to attach drywall without adding blocking between every stud.
I wasn't planning on covering the sole plate with the subflooring. Rather, it would butt up against a double sole plate. And yes, I'd have to block between each joists. This 'non-load bearing' wall will be perpendicular to the floor joist. I'll have to block anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodie Powers
Why are you not able to run your electrical/plumbing prior to laying the subfloor? Can't you just stub it out above the floor and make the final runs/connections after the interior wall is constructed?
Probably, but this isn't something I've done much of before so my initial thought was that it would be easier without the subfloor in the way. I guess I should think on this some more.
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:02 PM   #66
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Have you finalized your plumbing and electrical plans? Copper and PVC/ABS are easily extended with couplings...just secure to the joists that which goes under the floor and leave stub-outs at each end to be extended later. For electrical, you should know how much wire you need for your runs, just staple to the joists what needs to go under the floor now and coil up the rest to be run through your new wall after it's built. That's what I'd do.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:36 AM   #67
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Bodie,

That makes sense. I just hadn't thought it through.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:52 PM   #68
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I know I read somewhere that the required drain pipe drop was 1/8" per foot, which works for me over the 8' I need; 2" from top edge on one end and 2" from bottom edge on other with a 2.125" hole. Over 8 ft I have 1.125" inches available so as not to drop below 2" on the low end.

However, in double checking I can't find this 1/8" per foot reference. My searches keep coming up with 1/4" per foot drop. I guess this explains why the current hole is so low on the low end; less than 1.5".

Will an 1/8" drop per foot be okay? I can get a bit more from the tub drain to the 90 degree elbow but its a low slope after that.

Originally I was planning to drill a 2" hole.

Thanks again guys for all your help.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:17 PM   #69
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Louis, if I recall the 1/8" slope applies to larger drain pipes....>2"? If you've got a 2" drain, code requires a minimum 1/4"/foot.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:19 PM   #70
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Louis, if I recall the 1/8" slope applies to larger drain pipes....>2"? If you've got a 2" drain, code requires a minimum 1/4"/foot.
Yea, but something is going to have to give. I could start a bit higher under the tub and add more 2 by sisters or just settle for a smaller drop. All compromise.

The alternative is deepening the floor joist from underneath but that seems crazy particularly since I've already put in my 2x8 sisters.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:46 PM   #71
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I doubt many around here are going to advise you to install a sub-standard drain. At the same time there are probably lots of 1/8" sloped shower drains out there that work just fine. Maybe some of those folks invest in a gallon of drain cleaner every six months to loosen any soap sludge that may have accumulated. And adding a cleanout wouldn't hurt either.
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:23 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodie Powers
I doubt many around here are going to advise you to install a sub-standard drain. At the same time there are probably lots of 1/8" sloped shower drains out there that work just fine. Maybe some of those folks invest in a gallon of drain cleaner every six months to loosen any soap sludge that may have accumulated. And adding a clean-out wouldn't hurt either.
Bodie,

Adding a clean-out is a good idea. BTW, this is a tub with a shower, not a shower if that makes any difference.

I should note that the existing drain, while working fine, had a fair amount of sludge at the low end.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:52 PM   #73
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Making progress albeit rather slow. My floor joists are as reinforced as I think I can get them and I've taken care of all other support I think I'll need where I'll be putting up the new wall. I've got my drain pipe roughed in and wires are rerun. I just need to tack them down. Next step is to wrap the PVC with Quite Wrap and install the PEX plumbing.

I'd appreciate you guys taking a quick look at this and letting me know if you see anything that you would consider out of line before I put down the subfloor.

Thanks!

Louis
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:17 AM   #74
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Although everything looks pretty clean, it's hard to tell... Can you post larger photos?
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Old 02-22-2014, 06:38 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhagin
Although everything looks pretty clean, it's hard to tell... Can you post larger photos?
I originally tried to upload larger versions of these pictures and for whatever reason the process failed. I'll try again.
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