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Old 07-20-2013, 09:23 PM   #1
evilduck
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Drywall Mud on Durock

So I am remodeling my bathroom and I have reached the point were I need to finish the walls before I want to go any further with tiling.

I have about 1.5 feet of Durock board that extends outsize of my shower (it will be in a dry zone). One contractor giving me a quote said no and that I should cut out the durock extending outside the shower and replace it with greenboard. However, another contractor said it could be textured and taped together.

Can this area of cement board simply be taped and textured using normal drywall mud and drywall tape?

Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:30 PM   #2
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Don't rip it out, it's perfectly fine. Cover it in dry wall compound, sand it and then paint it.

No reason to rip it out and go buy a whole sheet of worthless green board.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:33 PM   #3
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That's what I was hoping/thinking. I wasn't entirely trusting the guy since he said he normally puts greenboard under cement board than tiles (i.e. no vapor barrier at all)!

Can regular drywall tape be used since its outside the wet zone or do I still have to use alkali resistant mesh tape (I hate mesh tape!)? Also, any special priming before I texture?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
posted by Refugio:
an regular drywall tape be used since its outside the wet zone or do I still have to use alkali resistant mesh tape (I hate mesh tape!)? Also, any special priming before I texture?
Outside the wet area to finish drywall, yes just use regular stuff. The mesh is mainly for cement board seams when called for though some do finish drywall with it. I would put a coat of primer on the wall once sanded down before you texture it.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:05 AM   #5
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No need to rip out the CBU...you can build up several layers of skim coated drywall compound and sand smooth.

There is no need to prime the area prior to texturing. As a matter of fact, priming one small area of a wall that will receive knock down texture is a detriment: the texturing compound will dry significantly slower over the primed area vs the unprimed area, resulting in an inconsistent knock down finish. If you insist on priming over the CBU area then I would suggest you prime that entire wall.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:40 PM   #6
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Unhappy Kerdi Drain Help

I am dry fitting my Kerdi drain (1st kerdi shower used) and have run into a problem and need advice.

I am placing the drain in a concrete slab (plumber moved drain from original spot since I wanted to change bathroom size). When he placed the drain he cut the drain pipe stub for me. I have since leveled the slab. When I dry fit the drain with the pan I noticed that the Kerdi drain doesn't fully bottom out on the inside ridge.

There is about a 1/8 ~3/16 in gap between the end of the drain pipe and the Kerdi drain inside ridge. Is this acceptable or will it just be worse once I lay thinset to set everything in place and also glue the pipes together? I am getting the shower inspected and also don't want to have to rip it out because the pipes and drain aren't fully connected (not sure if that truly matters). Pipe and drain are PVC.

Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:45 PM   #7
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You will be okay. It doesn't need to be fully inserted. As long as you have a decent amount of grab you are good

Somewhat carefully typed on teensy cell phone keys.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:57 PM   #8
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I just measured the distance from the drain pipe to the bottom of my level (placed across the slab/concrete box out) and the measurement was 2 3/8 inches. Sounds like this should be ok, right?

I just don't want to get denied on permit or have mildew/mold grow inside that gap. I am very much a beginner DIY person so my concerns tend to be more on the paranoid side.
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Old 07-30-2013, 03:36 PM   #9
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Deck Mud cure time

Before I install my kerdi drain/pan, I need to fill in some of the concrete box out left by my plumber (I am using 4 in coupling under drain per Schluter instructions). The gap is about 1-1.5 in wide by about 4 inches deep.

My question is: how long should deck mud dry before I can apply thinset/kerdi shower tray? In the videos I have seen for concrete subfloors they appear to set it right away. I would think the mud would need time to cure. I am using Mapei's 4-1 deck mud (newbie so its easier for me and it was cheap).

Thanks
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:22 PM   #10
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Welcome, Refugio.

It'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

You needn't wait at all to install that foam tray.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:12 PM   #11
evilduck
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Grout release on ceramic tile

I am getting ready to grout my cermaic tile (smooth unglazzed) and I was wondering if I need to apply grout release before I lay the grout in?

If no grout release, I am assuming standard grout haze remove will work just fine to get the haze out? My grout is the Custom building product stuff from Home Depot.

Thanks

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