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Old 07-07-2013, 06:10 PM   #1
atlas99
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Toilet rough out

Darn it, I mean rough in....

Howdy,

I am going to tile our powder room. The toilet has a 12" rough out (11 5/8 exactly). I would be unable to tile the wall behind the toilet with the current distance. I am unable to change the drain point either without a great deal of aggravation in the basement. Is there another way to get around this? If I go with a 10" rough out toilet, won't that gap between the wall and tank look a little strange?

thanks,
geo88
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Last edited by atlas99; 07-07-2013 at 06:41 PM. Reason: error in terminology
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #2
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George, are you calling the "rough out" the distance from the back wall to the center of the toilet hole?
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:32 PM   #3
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It depends on the toilet you choose, and whether the tile goes up the wall verses is just a tiled baseboard...the toilet specs are from the wall, not the baseboard. That being said, most toilets have some minimum space behind them to the wall, and many would fit on 11-5/8", but not all. When looking at toilets, consider www.totousa.com. Don't be put off by their list prices, they're available for considerably less both locally and on-line (but on-line can be risky...porcelain is very fragile!). FWIW, Toto is the largest toilet manufacturer in the world, and has a factory in Georgia where them make many (but not all) toilets for the USA market. Good stuff...you have to do something right to become the largest manufacturer. Between mine and my mother's we've had 4 working well for a long time now.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:47 PM   #4
PC7060
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With 12 inch offset you should still have 1-1.5 inches between the toilet and the finished wall. At least that is my experience with the Toto Drakes. Are you tiling right over the drywall?

Re shipping the Toto toilets, they do an excellent job foam packing the units and delivering right to your door if you order 2 or less. Order 3 and its a freight shipment and that is where I've had trouble with damaged units.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:07 PM   #5
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Many of the Toto toilets have a nominal 3/4" clearance when installed on a true 12" rough-in. The older Drakes (not the newest version!) had a fairly big gap behind it, but not the newest Drake II (which has a better bowl wash, not that the old one was bad, and lower gallons per flush, 1.28, meeting the latest efficiency requires for some places). The only way to know for sure is to read the specification sheet for the toilet in question. When setting a toilet, you usually have maybe 1/4" or so leeway with the slop in the holes for the bolts and the size of the exit horn verses the opening in the flange, so you can fudge things a little bit. If you needed more, you'd have to move the flange or choose a 10" rough-in toilet.
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:17 PM   #6
atlas99
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Okay one and all,

I will clarify a little bit if I may, now that I understand your comments thus far.

1. The distance from the wall (not the baseboard) to the bolts is exactly 11 5/8, therefore I am calling it a 12" rough in. I am assuming the bolt position to reflect the center of the flange with a little bit of slop only.

2. I have a Glacier Bay low water usage toilet. The back of the lid is approximately 1/4" from the wall (gypsum).

3. I would like to tile up the wall, but it appears there is no room for tile with this minimal lid to wall clearance.

4. I cannot access the plumbing from below and change the flange distance.

5. My options are:
a. Get a 10" toilet
b. Cut out a recess and tile accordingly
c. Just paint and no tile
d. Can't even do wainscot
e. Get another 12" toilet with proper clearance????

thanks
george99
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Old 07-07-2013, 10:01 PM   #7
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Some, if not all, toilet manufacturers' websites have spec sheets which will give you a drawing showing clearance between tank and wall.

For example, the American Standard Cadet 3, which flushes really well, shows 1" (+/- 1/4") tank to wall.

http://www.americanstandard-us.com/a...Sheet_1970.pdf
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:11 AM   #8
atlas99
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Thanks Steve C et al,

I went about and measured the other 3 toilets in the house.

Brand Rough In space to wall

Kohler 11 3/4 7/8"
Eljer 12 5/8"
Eljer 12 5/8"

I was unaware that besides the installer/builder that there would be that much variation between toilets and clearance. Therefore it seems my problem really lies with the brand in the bathroom, ie, Glacier Bay. It is not an expensive toilet ($99 on sale at HD), has stood up well with the low volume usage. Overall I like this toilet even with the cheap plastic parts in its gut.

Thanks everyone for your input....will be asking more questions in the future...will need to do a kerdi shower next!!!!

geo99
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:13 AM   #9
jadnashua
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Between the slots in the toilet flange and the holes in the toilet, you can usually fudge at least 1/4" rather than having it perfectly centered - the horn on the toilet is smaller than the opening in the flange. If you want to tile the wall, that one will not work reliably. A 10" rough-in toilet would leave you an inch or two (maybe more) space - this is okay mechanically, but you may not like the look. The toilet does not need wall support and could be sitting in the middle of the room!

AS has some decent designs, but their quality control is lousy. If you get a good one, you're fine, but too many stories of warped bowls, missing glaze, funky flush mechanisms make me steer away. Their toilet part was recently sold to INAX (a Japanese company) someone said, but I have not verified that. That might improve the QA/QC, but it will take awhile.

Glacier Bay could have been made by any one of a number of companies, and may or may not have standard parts in the tank. That house brand, even with the same name, may bounce between manufacturers, and it's hard to say how good or bad it is since it could change.
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