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Old 05-14-2013, 09:24 AM   #1
JoeBoxer
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Apply CBU over drywall or tile straight onto drywall?

I'd like to do a quick tile job on my living room wall.

Material: Travertine (6x18) that I cut from 18" x 18" x 1/2"
Current Substrate: 1/2" drywall installed 20 years ago
Framing: Exterior wall framing 16" on center, 2x6 SPF studs

Would I be going overkill applying a 1/4" Hardie over the drywall before tiling?
OR
Should I just apply the stone directly onto the painted drywall?

The drywall is in great condition, never had issue with water or anything like that on my walls (knock on hardwood) for the 8 years I'm here. I've already changed my roof shingle 5 years ago.

I've been trying to look up sheer or sheet bond separation strength of the paper sheet, but I have been unsuccessful looking them up the datasheets.

Incorporating museum quality fossil casting to look like a museum wall but permanently installed into the wall by a local artist.
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:39 AM   #2
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Hello Joe,

Your bathroom turned out great!

I'd say a quick TSP wash, rough up the painted surface of the drywall with some 80 grit sandpaper and tile on.
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:47 AM   #3
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Rough up the paint and tile on, says I as well. Though I see how few fasteners many sheet rockers use and I'd add a few screws into the areas you're working on if I were you.

Are you using thinset to install this travertine?

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:01 PM   #4
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I am installing with the left over 255 and the bags of versabond given with the travertine. Not too sure about the versabond. I've only previously used good stuff like megalite and 255
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:39 PM   #5
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How old are the leftover bags of 255/versabond? Were any open? Don't want to do all that work if the thinset is expired.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:08 PM   #6
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255 is a few weeks opened by me, versabond ha 2 open 1 month ago, and one new. If I run out, I am a firm believer in 255 now for normal jobs, and megalite for those questionable installs where a little bit of give is needed.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:10 PM   #7
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Would there be any advantage worth noting if I slap on 1/4" hardie backer on top of drywall?
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:36 PM   #8
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Adding cbu means you don't have to clean up and sand the paint. But, you will probably have a tough time finding cbu screws long enough to go through the drywall and into the joists. If you want to use cbu, I'd consider cutting out the drywall and putting up 1/2" cbu. You want the drywall properly anchored, and I heartily agree a few more screws to hold things together are probably warranted, but other than that, the drywall is plenty strong enough.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:01 PM   #9
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Screw is a good point. I have 2 pack of 1-5/8 rock-on cbu screws left over.

I hear and have seen that they are plenty strong, but when is a tile too heavy?

1/2" travertine is ok because it has been done before with success, but is there a limit to how much it would hold vertically?

If I wanted to put 1-1/4" pieces of granite from the scraps I can get at the granite shop, would it hold well on an 8' tall drywall wall?

Has there been any test of safe limit and failure point even in ideal dry condition?
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:57 AM   #10
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Do I need to apply primer at the baseboard area?
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #12
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Cool

Argggg ... Went ahead before reading the post!
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Old 05-18-2013, 12:02 PM   #13
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:53 AM   #14
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Hi Joe,

>> Incorporating museum quality fossil casting to look like a museum wall but permanently installed into the wall by a local artist.

Wow - I bet that will look OUTSTANDING - PLEASE post pics when it's done.

Just something to keep in mind - as you know, travertine is a fairly soft natural stone and therefore won't tolerate deflection without cracking. Granted it's an interior wall and not a floor or a shower wall but ... if someone leans or falls against it, you could well end up with cracked tiles.

So ... I'm not necessarily advising a course of action but you may wish to test that wall before you start - push against it in spots - to see how solid it is. If you do have areas of flex you may wish to consider adding a layer of something on top of that drywall - to stiffen it up before you tile. The cheap way to do it is 5/8 drywall - fast and easy to put and it's super stiff. But you may not wish to lose the additional thickness? There are other options as you know.

You'll certainly want to keep some spare tiles around - just in case something happens later on - so that you have the exact matching tiles.

Oh ... and before the install, I'd first clean all tiles - quick scrub in water bath, let dry, then seal them twice before installing them. A little sealer goes a long way. Aquaseal is really nice stuff and you can get it with or without the enhancer (darkens tiles a bit - to what they look like when they are wet (but not a wet shiny look). They also do have a gloss sealer but from your description of what you'll be doing I can't imagine that you want anything shiny.

I can't wait to see the photos - that sounds like a really creative project!
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Old 05-19-2013, 07:18 AM   #15
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Ok, pushed on between the studs and if I use the light, I can see minimal deflection. Punched it in between studs and here is the damage. I could give it more violent punch, but my fist won't like that. Can be done, but why?
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