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Old 02-24-2013, 08:54 AM   #1
Emilime75
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What thinset between plywood and Hardie board?

Hey everyone, this is my first post here, hello.

I am remodeling a master bath and have some questions regarding thinsets. My house was built in 1969, the construction consists of 2x8 joists(unknown species) spaced 16" OC with a 10' span. The subfloor consistes of a layer of 5/8" plywood and then a 3/4" layer of ply on top of that. I will be installing 1/4 Hardie board as an underlayment for ceramic tile. The total area to be tiled, minus the walk in shower, is right about 60 SQFT.

My main question, really I have 2, is what thinset should I use between the plywood and the Hardie? I have read suggestions of both modified and/or unmodified. I also understand that the thinset in this appplication isn't used to adhere the Hardie to the plywood, rather just to fill in any dips in the subfloor to fully support the Hardie and the in turn the tile. So, if I bought a modified thinset that says not to use over plywood, will this be a problem? Does that mean I shouldn't use it at all over plywood, or only if I'm attempting to install tile directly to the plywood. Should I take this back and get a different product. I'm sort of limited to Lowes and HD products. Lowes here carries Mapei products, and I don't remember what HD here sells. The thinset I currently have, but haven't used, is the Mapei Ceramic Tile Mortar. It is a modified thinset, but it does specify that it isn't for use over plywood.
Is there a good product available at either Lowes or HD that will do well to set both the plywood to Hardie and my tile to the Hardie, I guess that would be ideal.

Also, what trowel is best used for setting 3x5 Hardie boards to plywood?

Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:05 AM   #2
reefone
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i use modified thinset between my hardie and the subfloor all the time. the directions are talking about tile directly to plywood. what you have will work for both the hardie and tile.

a 1/4x1/4x1/4 trowel will work good for setting the hardie to the subfloor. for setting the tiles you might want to jump up to a 1/4x3/8 trowel.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:07 AM   #3
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Welcome, Emil.

We always recommend you read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the products you intend to use in your project.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emil
I have read suggestions of both modified and/or unmodified.
The only suggestions that will be meaningful are those in the link above, which suggests you can use either type of thinset mortar. It'll also tell you what trowel to use for applying it.

Read it all!

You'll find that bonding tile to the Hardibacker requires a modified thinset mortar. If you want to use the same mortar for the entire project it'll need to meet the requirements of ANSI A118.4. It'll say that on the bag.

If you shop at Home Depot, Custom Building Products' Versabond would be a good choice for an all-around mortar for your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:29 AM   #4
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If you google hardibacker pdf you will get the link to down load pdf.

sent from my GSIII
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:17 AM   #5
Emilime75
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Thank you everyone for your input.

Reefone, just curious, why would I jump up in trowel notch size when it comes time to lay the tile? I would think the larger Hardie sheets would require a larger notch than the 12x12 tile.

So far it seems as the thinset I have will work fine for "setting" or filling in any dips in the subfloor between the plywood and the Hardie boards. I will use a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4" notch trowel in this application. I will step up to a better thinset when it comes time to lay the tile.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #6
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Emil, if your floor is flat and your tiles are flat you should be able to set the tiles with your 1/4x1/4" square notch just fine.

The object of the game is to get at least the absolute minimum of 80 percent coverage on the back of each tile, with a minimum thickness of 3/32nds of an inch, for an interior dry area application. 100 percent is better, of course.

What you use to achieve that is entirely up to you. Keying-in mortar on the back of each tile is very helpful.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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