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Old 09-13-2012, 10:22 AM   #1
beachfront71
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Tiling over a drop in tub

Long story short, we purchased a Kohler Archer k-1123 drop in soaking tub a year or so ago for a pretty penny and intended on using it in the master...We ended up putting a freestanding tub in there so this one has sat in the garage.

This is a drop in tub and I am remodeling a guest bathroom and would like to use it.

Below is a picture of the exact same tub and it is tiled the way we would want ours:


The problem I am having is this tub has a decorative lip on it .. in the next picture you can see the lip which is approx 7/8th inch wide and about 3/8th tall from the tub platform.

In the first picture, you can see they simply tiled over this lip on the alcove sides and tiled up to the lip on the front ..

What they do not have in this picture is a shower which we will.

My question is, in order to do this we need the tub up against the studs in order to minimize the width of this lip..

We are going to use tile board (1/2") for the alcove walls.

I understand I should run some plastic behind the tile board and over this lip for waterproofing but should I also somehow extend the lip up the wall for additional protection?

I have read on this forum there are glue/tape systems that will allow for additional flange protection .. wondering if this would also apply to my situation.

Or maybe a better question is what would you do in this situation (besides telling me to go buy the proper tub!!)


Any thoughts are appreciated and again, thanks in advance.

On a side note: I will be using a licensed tile contractor to do the job but want some ammo/discussion topics with regards to making this a waterproofed project.
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Last edited by beachfront71; 09-13-2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:39 AM   #2
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my two cents

Butt the tub up against the studs, fur studs out (7/8' ?) enough to have the cement board hang over the lip.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:10 PM   #3
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Welcome, beachfront71. Please change that permanent signature line to a first name for us to use.

Maybe it's just a bad photo angle, but it looks to me like that tub has a full tiling flange or no tiling flange at all and that's not what you're telling us. I'm thinking some sort of optical illusion there. Maybe a better shot of the tub is available?

I've never seen a tub with a "lip" (we're talking about a raised flange?) 7/8ths" wide and 3/8ths" tall.

And we need to know exactly what your tub edge looks like to be able to advise you on how to make a suitable transition to the walls for a shower.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:48 PM   #4
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Furring I thought would be an option except that the wall the whole wall where the front of the tub is will be tiled all the way...Furring this wall out would create a bump from the tub area to the existing drywall ... unless we took out all the drywall and furred the whole 10 foot wall...

I have added some better pictures form the kholer website that might show a little more detail to the decorative lip of the tub..

I hope these help.. The problem is where the tub lip starts .. it runs at an angle so you have to get over the whole lip in order for the tile to sit flush...

The other option I have considered is notching the studs a 1/2inch or so in order to give some extra room to push the tub "inside the walls" and bypass the lip..

Let me know if these pictures give you a better idea and if not I will draw it and scan something in ....

Thanks again.
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Last edited by beachfront71; 09-14-2012 at 07:27 AM.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:19 PM   #5
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I would make sure the flat area has some pitch to it so when the water does get over the lip, it can run on into the tub and not puddle around the edge.

Also, the picture that shows the tile doesn't have a shower head. Not sure if you want one or not. If you do, you'll need a curtain that laps into the tub or a door that sits on the edge of the tub. It can't sit on the tiled wall if you tile it like the pic shows.
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:04 PM   #6
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OK, them pichers I can see.

Bold print in his first post, Davy. Says he's fixin' to have a shower in his tub.

I hadn't thought about the tub not having sufficient slope on the ledge, but that's something you'll wanna know. Might not cause any kinda failure, but could certainly be a PITA.

Part of the problem using those tubs with a shower is the big round corners. If you don't fur your walls in far enough it's difficult to get a decent corner in your wallboard and/or moisture barrier. If they offer an additional tiling flange for that tub, I'd add that.

I wouldn't worry much about furring the walls in such that they're out of plane with the rest of the room. Number of ways to make a "feature" out of that if you don't wanna bring out the rest of the walls to match.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:32 AM   #7
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Thanks for all of the information!

The tub does have a slight pitch back into the tub if water was to collect on the flat interior base area...

It sounds like we can put an extended tile flange on the tub lip area, was told you basically use silicone to attatch it to existing tub

... so with that in mind is this basically how it should go:

1. Fur walls as needed to make sure cement board/tile etc end up past the tub lip
2. hang 6mm plastic on walls that drapes back over lip and into tub
3. hang 1/2 tile board, float seams, etc.
4. Tile
5. grout /touch up/silicone area where tile and tub meet

Appreciate the info ..
Had 2 contractors out yesterday .. one wants to hang tile board, the other wants to lath/plaster the shower/tub wall area.

I hope I am going a bit overkill, now that I have found this forum I cringe at what I have seen my friends do when remodeling bathrooms...
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:03 AM   #8
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Hello to all and again thanks for any feedback.

Please see the attached drawing, based on what I have read here...

Does this look like an acceptable way to accomplish what we are doing?

If it is acceptable, do I need to redgard the durock as well or is it one or the other (plastic vs redgard)




Just want to make sure I am not missing anything as the opinions in the field have been varied....


One thing I could do is notch out the studs so that the tub lip is recessed a bit inside the wall .. this would allow the durock to completly go over the tub lip and still keep the walls flush .. it would only be 2 studs to notch as I would fur the other wall (long side wall) and the 3rd wall of the alcove has not been built yet...






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Old 09-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan
If it is acceptable, do I need to redgard the durock as well or is it one or the other (plastic vs redgard)
It's either/or, Nathan.

Either notching or furring will work, entirely up to you.

The approach in your drawing is fine, but I'd use a 6mil membrane rather than a 6mm membrane, although that might help with your furring problem.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:14 AM   #10
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Thanks again CX!

Last questions of the day ..

When furring, do you install the barrier first, then fur, or the wood furring strips first then the plastic?

also, what is your preference ... plastic or regard ?
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Old 09-15-2012, 10:37 AM   #11
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A moisture barrier behind a shower wall must cover all the framing. That would include your furring strips.

For furring, by the way, I much prefer rips of plywood of an appropriate thickness and I use construction adhesive as well as some mechanical fasteners to attach them. Far less likely to split when fastening your wallboard to them.

Either water containment system will work. My preference would be for the direct bonded membrane on the interior surface, especially if you'll have any niches or windows or seats or any other thing with a horizontal surface.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:51 AM   #12
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Thanks,

Then Redgard sounds like the better path to take when having shelfs and windows. ..

With Redgard...the layering would now be:

1. Studs
2. Durock directly on studs nothing in between
3. Redgard coats to proper thickness
4. Tile, grout, caulk

Durock fastened directly to studs with nothing in between (except maybe furring) even for exterior walls...



Correct?

And again thank you.
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Old 09-15-2012, 12:35 PM   #13
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Correct.
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