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Old 07-15-2012, 06:52 PM   #1
ericscottf
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Redgard over joint compound?

Hi all,

I've got a shower stall made of hardibacker with thinset on mesh tape for the joints. The shower stall is completely made of hardibacker, floor to ceiling. Outside of the shower, the hardi continues for a bit, but then i transitioned to greenboard drywall, as i'll be half tiling and half painting.

Everwhere hardi is concerned, I taped with a proper hardi-tape and thinset. Only where greenboard meets greenboard (out of, and far away from the shower) did I use joint compound.

It's my first time using redgard, and I tested it thoroughly (I thought). I tried laying tile over hardi and redgard, and tile on redgard on drywall. I didn't test redgard on joint compound on greenboard.

Redgard peels right off my joint compound. I did prime properly (4:1 water to redgard mix painted over all surfaces), but it has no effect - probably because my joint compound is "dusty", that is, the top layer is a bit powdery (never been a problem with paint).

All drying times/manuf. spec/etc were followed very closely.

Two of my greenboard walls back the outside, and have no vapor barrier (long, uninteresting story), so I wanted to redgard the entire room and forget about it.

Any suggestions? What's proper procedure? I'm most interested in a solution that requires minimal disassembly, as i'm almost finished! I don't mind peeling the redgard off the joint compound and re-painting that part... If i don't have to tear out the drywall, that would be ideal, especially because I can't really use thinset to do the joints on the greenboard because I'm painting a good chunk of it.

What if i used a primer paint on the joint compounded areas and then redgarded?

Obviously, I'll call redgard's tech support tomorrow and ask, but i'm interested in some real-world answers too.

thanks!
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:16 PM   #2
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Eric, the Redgard really only needs to be inside the shower area. Everything from the shower door outward can be joint compound and paint without the Redgard. If you can draw a straight line right at the edge of the tile just outside the door, you then can cut the Redgard in line with a utility knife and peel away everything on the outside.

If you have any compound on the inside of the shower that is covered with Redgard, I would peel it off and sand off the compound, or a wet sponge will wet it enough to get it to scrape off.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:23 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I know better than to use joint compound inside the shower.

My issue is that i've got a steamy room (though it does have a nice powered vent) that shares a wall with the outside (the shower doesn't share a wall with the outside, the other side of the bathroom does). I'm supposed to have a vapor barrier in that wall, but I don't, so I wanted to use redgard to remedy that issue. Another wall is shared with the attic, which is a vented attic, so I need a vapor barrier there too.

I also like the idea of having the room totally sealed just under the paint and tiles - when I want to clean, I can just mop the entire room, floors, walls and ceiling.

What's proper procedure here (aside from tearing out the walls to put in a traditional vapor barrier)?
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:15 AM   #4
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Zinsser oil based primer is excellent and can be painted over with latex paint
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:21 AM   #5
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This sounds good... So I'll remove the joint compound from where i'll be tiling, and use a vapor proof paint where i'll be painting.

Best way to remove joint compound from greenboard without harming the greenboard?

thanks!
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:37 PM   #6
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Joint compound isn't going to come up easy.. Tiling suggestions?

Hi all,

In another thread, i discussed putting redgard over joint compound on drywall in a bathroom (but away from the shower, which is totally hardi). Manuf. confirmed that there's no sticking redgard to jointcompound (premixed if you need to know).

I was planning on removing the joint compound, but it's really thick in some spots and will take quite a lot of effort to get rid of. In the few spots i tried, it took the green paper off too, that's when i decided it would be best to look around for a better answer.

This is probably a stupid question, but is there any option, other than removing the joint compound? Keep in mind that i don't have a vapor barrier behind the wall, so i need some kind of waterproofing behind the tile as well (hence the redgard, which is doing fine everywhere else)

I have been looking into perm<1.0 paints that i could subsequently use redgard over (to grip the thinset), or masonry waterproofer, but i'm not coming up with any "this works, do this" answers, only guesses and uncertainty.

Does anyone have any experience with this issue?

thanks!
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:50 PM   #7
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Pencil or bullnose over this accent?

Hi all

What's my best bet here, using the pencil or the bullnose above this accent?
To the right, the accent takes a vertical turn, and goes around the shower at eye height (this is 40" off the ground in the pic). Presumably, whatever i put over the accent will be to the left of the accent when it goes vertical? Or if i use the pencil, would i mitre it to slope it into bullnose?

I'll post some full pics when i'm done!
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:51 PM   #8
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Eric, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like.

If you're in a code compliance jurisdiction I would recommend you contact your compliance inspector before you commit to using wall paint as your required vapor barrier for the exterior wall.

And it'll help if you'll enter a geographic location into your User Profile so folks can see it when responding to questions like this one.

See post #7 for the best recommendation on drywall mud removal.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:54 PM   #9
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I'm in the long island, NY area, currently at 99.999% humidity and 90 degrees F.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:58 PM   #10
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With strong down lighting the pencil will cast a strong shadow. The bullnose will also be easier to clean. Most importantly, what does SWMBO prefer?
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:03 PM   #11
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I've now combined your newest thread here, too, Eric.

Posting the geographic location doesn't help later in your life here. It needs to be in your User Profile to be of lasting value.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:31 PM   #12
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Sorry for making too many threads... I thought the tile style opinion was different enough to warrant a separate thread, and I didn't want to have the more important issue overlooked.

Fwiw, the lil lady likes the pencil rail more, but not for any good reason, and she is looking for opinions and suggestions.

Better pics to follow tomorrow. I have a few more questions yet.

Most important issue at the moment is definitely the joint compound/vapor barrier one.
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Old 07-18-2012, 07:37 AM   #13
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Here's my whole project, and my unanswered questions. This is my first tile job, please be kind.

The tile runs up to the ceiling in the shower and behind the sink (sink not pictured). Everywhere else, the tile runs up to 40" and then has the accent strip on top of it, then it will be painted above that. There are 3 shadow boxes that I haven't put the tile in (will be bullnose on all 4 sides, mitered)

1) redgard or some waterproofing membrane over joint compound: Yeah, this doesn't look good. I'll remove the jc and use proper thinset and tape.

2) Ceiling in the shower. Currently, the tile goes up to the ceiling
square. The ceiling isn't perfectly flat, that's why i didn't end up there with a bullnose. There is a fairly uneven tile line up there. Should I:
a)end it with a fat grout line and a lot of caulk
b)put 6" bullnose on the ceiling to hide the grout line/terminate the
tile - not much more work
c) tile the entire ceiling above the shower and end in bullnose outside the shower

3) The vent box (shown in pic with the green 4") - Currently, the
tile runs up to the short side of it. The tile runs diagonally, so putting
bullnose on that wall will not look good. My options are:
a) 1 line of bullnose on the short wall (will come out about halfway)
to end the tile, then paint the rest
b) tile the entire short wall , ending with the bullnose

4) Vertical accent strip: Chair rail or bullnose? Keep in
mind that whatever borders the accent strip will also border the
diagonal tiles that are above the shower on that wall, and will run
into whatever borders #5:

5) top of the half-tiled area
a) end with chair rail
b) end with 6" bullnose

I think that's it for now. thanks!
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:09 AM   #14
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Please elaborate on #2.

#4: Agreed. I think we'll go with the bullnose.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:13 AM   #15
ericscottf
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Epoxy grout for my first time?

Hi all,

Finishing my first tiling job. Anyone think that using epoxy grout on some very basic home depot ceramic floor and wall tile (daltile BX01) is a bad idea? Any suggestions?

thanks!
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