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Old 12-25-2017, 10:36 PM   #1
dfalk
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Can I waterproof my a shower window this way?

Hello, first time poster here doing my first ever bathroom remodel. I have a window in my shower with a wooden frame. Once I remove the quarter round trim I will have a 1.5" of framing. Can I just lay down 1/4" cement board so it sits right on top of the wall board, cover it with mesh tape and put redguard over it?

If so would I have to screw down the cement board to the sill/frame or can I use something like liquid nails to keep it in place?

Or is there another option I should do? Thank.
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Old 12-25-2017, 11:01 PM   #2
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dfalk,

Welcome to the forum.

Got a first name we can use? Doesn't have to be your real name, but dfalk doesn't roll off the tongue too well.

Is that white part around the window made from vinyl?

If you are planning to use RG as a membrane, you'll want to defeat the kraft facing on the insulation in your outside wall. A few well placed slits with a sharp razor should do the trick.
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Old 12-26-2017, 07:59 AM   #3
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Hi and Welcome,

Most backer board manufacturers want you to fasten the product with screws or nails.


RedGard will work fine. I would roll it and the fabric onto the window sash so that the tile will hide. That means a quarter-inch or less onto the sash (which does appear to be vinyl.
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:22 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houston Remodeler
Is that white part around the window made from vinyl?

If you are planning to use RG as a membrane, you'll want to defeat the kraft facing on the insulation in your outside wall. A few well placed slits with a sharp razor should do the trick.
Yes vinyl window. And I have to admit I have no idea what a kraft facing is.


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Originally Posted by John Bridge
RedGard will work fine. I would roll it and the fabric onto the window sash so that the tile will hide.
When you say fabric is that the stuff I see on the home depot website as redguard uncoupling mat underlayment? It looks like I can just use that instead of cement board?
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Old 12-26-2017, 11:34 AM   #5
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I believe Paul is talking about the brown paper on the face of the insulation. And, I think John is talking about this product. It's made to be used along with Redgard to add strength. Use it over the cement board, not in place of the cement board.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-238.pdf
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:27 PM   #6
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So I got my cement board up today and the horizontal board sticks out 1/4" and the vertical part sticks out 1/8" past the window sill. I'm still not really sure how to make the transition from the wood window sill to cement board. Any ideas?
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Old 01-10-2018, 11:51 PM   #7
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I did a bunch of other work in my bathroom and now I'm back to this damn window sill. So my plan is to screw cement board all along the window sill, which is about 2" deep and make it flush with the cement board on the wall.

Once I do that it'll leave me a 3/4" wide gap (as seen in the picture) of the rest of the wood window frame. Can I just pack this gap with thinset, (the deepest part of this gap is 1/4") and put my mesh tape over that to make a flush transition?

If that's acceptable I will put a ton of redgard with some laticrete waterproofing membrane fabric over all the seams and on the inside of the window sill that has the cement board. Does this plan sound good?
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:21 AM   #8
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You can use structural foam.

Hydroban backer board, kerdi board, wedi and the like are all structural foam panels. If you can find 5 pound EPS foam that will also work. To use liquid membranes, have no gaps larger than 1/8 inch. These liquids are latex and shrink as they dry. Blobbing it on will cause cracks. Successive thin layers works best. COver the gaps with the approved mesh fabric for the liquid membrane you select.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:44 AM   #9
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This may be hard to get stable enough to tile regardless of method, but at the least you want to tie the window frame and structure frame together as best as possible. Gunning some low expansion foam between wood sash and house frame might help.

What you've got there is an old wooden window sash that's been "gutted", with a newer vinyl window assembly stuck inside. It's common to do this, as the window trim, both inside and out can stay in place. I'd argue that it leaves a vestige of old work that compromises the integrity of the new, but I'm anal about such things.

In an ideal world, both would be removed, a new window assembly installed and retrim/ side exterior.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:58 AM   #10
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probably late now,but I probably would have taken the concrete board sheet to the inside of the wood frame. Then you could have taken the inner concrete pieces directly to the wall sheet.
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