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Old 01-12-2015, 11:28 PM   #1
Shoooe
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Kerdi problem -- Shower floor

I installed Kerdi drain using removable portion of the Kerdi tray in master bath renovation. Then installed remainder of 48x48 tray, Kerdi, and banding. All went well, but approx 24 hours after install I am noticing a few voids in the transition between the tray and the removable portion (under the drain). I thought I filled these areas during membrane install but obviously not well enough. The voided areas are approximately 1-2 inches in diameter. The membrane dimples when pressed in these areas.

1)What is the best course of action?
A) pierce the membrane and Kerdi-fix the voided areas.
B) pierce the membrane, fill areas with thinset, and patch with Kerdi (I will probably lay over entire floor to minimize buildup with this option).
C) not worry about it and move on to flood test.
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Old 01-12-2015, 11:50 PM   #2
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Welcome, Dustin.

A picture would be quite helpful if you are able. There's a paper lip icon above the reply box. As long as you're under 2mb per pic, the forum software will accept them.

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Old 01-13-2015, 06:50 AM   #3
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Thanks for the welcome Kg. This forum has been an amazing resource so far, so I really appreciate all of the pro's and DIY'ers who share their experience and expertise. In the picture, you can faintly see the the the lighter orange in a ring about 3-4 inches outside of the uncovered drain fleece. When you press on the lighter areas there is some "give," as if the mortar that filled the gap between the tray and removable drain portion of the tray oozed out somewhere (not sure where the heck it went).

1. So, should I puncture and fill these voids? If so, is Kerdi-fix preferred?
2. Is Kerdi-fix sufficient for sealing punctures or do I need to patch with kerdi?
3. If I do, I'd prefer to lay a full piece of Kerdi to cover the entire floor so as to avoid any buildup/slope issues?
4. If I do, will the new Kerdi adhere fine to the existing Kerdi and any thinset flaring at the banded edges?
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Old 01-13-2015, 08:46 AM   #4
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Hi Dustin, welcome! You might want to cut that area out and patch it in with a new piece overlapping 2" on to the Kerdi that is there.
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Old 01-13-2015, 02:27 PM   #5
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From a workshop at Schluter...it depends! You need at LEAST a solid 2" connection of the membrane to any seam. If you had that, AND the tile size was such that the unbonded area was a small percentage of the tile, it would be okay. But, being close to the edge of the drain and with typically smaller tile used on a pan, you really need to deal with it. You may need to invest in a tube of KerdiFix, as you won't get a proper seal to the drain if you cut out the Kerdi on top of it with thinset. In fact, if you can lift an edge, you might be able to get some KerdiFix in underneath, then squeegee it around, and that would work. A quick call to their Tech support would maybe give you confirmation or some other choices.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:38 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies. I definitely have a 2" bond at all seams, including at the drain (the voids are approx 3-4 inches from the drain seam), but I will have smaller tiles--flat cut pebbles--so I am worried about the issues that may create with the voids.

I am thinking my best option is to cut out the areas, fill voids with Kerdi-fix and then patch with Kerdi. If I patch, is it okay to run an entire piece of Kerdi across the floor with drain cutout? Would there be any issue with having two layers of Kerdi across the entire pan? I will definitely call tech support. Thanks again!
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:49 PM   #7
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Thinset will bond again to the foam or the foam with a thinset residue on it. So, you can just cut out an area that is loose and put a patch on that has at least a 2" overlap to the existing Kerdi membrane. No need for KerdiFix in this instance. That would be the least expensive option. KerdiFix would work, but doesn't 'flow' as easily as the proper mix of thinset, and you might end up with a hump there. It can be done, though, if you're careful.

The only reason I mentioned KerdiFix is that once you tear off a bonded membrane, you'll damage the bonding surface on the plastic drain flange, and without it, thinset isn't as reliable bond, but KerdiFix sticks to nearly anything. Kerdi to the foam with thinset works fine. Keep in mind, at least with thinset, the thinset doesn't actually stick to Kerdi, it flows around the fleece fibers, then cures, locking things in place.
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Old 01-14-2015, 07:37 AM   #8
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Thanks again for the advice. Called Schluter, they said to cut out the areas (or cut X's in the membrane over the areas), fill voids with thinset, and then patch with minimum of 2" overlap. I ended up running a kerdi patch over the entire shower floor to avoid buildup around the drain and any chance of lessening the pitch (used the Kerdi tray base so pitch is already minimal).

As always, you guys were spot on. Thanks again!
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:13 AM   #9
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Kerdi Shower -- Check for surface penetrations?

I've wrapped up my Kerdi installation (48x48 kit) and am curious about something before moving on to tiling. I plan to complete the flood test today, but am concerned about any surface penetrations in the walls which wouldn't show up in the flood test. I have no visible "holes" but am concerned as a Kerdi newbie that I may have absentmindedly punctured the membrane during install. I was careful during install and used drywall knives with rounded corners to embed the membrane, but again I'm no pro and a worrier. Am I overthinking this or do the pro's have a process for testing wall areas above the curb line?
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:19 AM   #10
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With no visible damage and a 2" overlap at the seams, You're overthinking it.....relax
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:25 AM   #11
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Welcome, Dustin.

It'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic tittle any time you'd like to suggest one.

I know of no way to test the Kerdi membrane on your walls for leaks. The material did not come with any holes in it and if you've been reasonably careful with it you shouldn't have any now.

Flood testing the receptor portion of the shower is mostly to test the seams you made with the membrane.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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