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Old 07-11-2010, 10:46 PM   #1
BoilerPitt
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Central PA
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Replacing 1940s Aluminum Tile Options?

Project #2:

Bathroom in 1940s house. Ceramic tile in shower/bath is in near-perfect condition. However, the previous owners painted the tile on the walls (a 4 foot high border). I have since discovered that the wall tile is actually original aluminum tiles (originally pink to match the green shower tiles in one of those great color schemes from that time). Some of the aluminum tiles were damaged and I removed them. They were attached with some brown masticky-type adhesive. As before, the project is limited by my budget and ability. The aluminum tiles pop off easily, so removal is not an issue, but the adhesive would have to be chipped off. Here are my thoughts/questions for my options:
  1. Rough up old adhesive on surface and apply ceramic tile to this with mastic. I don't even think this is feasible, but it would be the cheapest/easiest route and I hate to replace the walls since they can survive being hit by a truck.
  2. The wall is 1/4 inch wallboard covered with 1/2 inch of cement/plaster. I could cut and remove this 4 foot portion. Replace with Green drywall (or cement board in you recommend it) and apply ceramic tile to this. I am not sure about the feasibility of this due to where the studs are and if I will have a board end "hanging" without support.
  3. Tear the walls out to the studs up to the ceiling
  4. Gut all the walls and the tile in the bath (the wall tile will directly butt up to the current ceramic shower tile.)

I am going to do the floor also, but you guys walked me through that one last time.

Thanks in advance,

Matt
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Last edited by BoilerPitt; 07-11-2010 at 11:00 PM. Reason: wrong width
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:15 AM   #2
bbcamp
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I like option 2. Fur out the studs so you can use 1/2" sheetrock (if in a dry area) or 1/2" backerboard (if wet). Add blocking and new "cripple" studs or cut the boards to fall on a stud. CX sometimes uses a 1x screwed to the back of the sheetrock if he has a joint that falls between studs. Might not work well in your situation, considering the different thickness of materials.

Option 3 is better if you have any plans at all for moving piping and wiring or adding insulation in these walls.

Option 5 is to cover the mastic-coated wall with 1/2" sheetrock, then tiling over that, using a "mud cap" to hide the edges of the sheetrock.

Option 6 (or, maybe 1(a)) is to go back to the adhesive and try scraping it off with a 4" razor scraper. Slight damage to the underlying surface is not a problem.
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:52 PM   #3
BoilerPitt
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Door #6 Please

Well, we decided to try to scrape off the adhesive. A little bit of heat (and lots of ventilation) and it comes off reasonably well. It is going to be a long process, but we knew that would be true no matter which choice we took.

I will likely be back when I actually get to the tiling part.

Matt
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