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Old 02-20-2018, 12:33 PM   #46
Davy
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Don't beat yourself up, we don't always think of everything either.
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Old 02-26-2018, 11:32 PM   #47
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Well...got the last of the shower wall tile hung. Ended up snagging a 7/8" pencil to get rid of the extra-skinny cut that would've been necessary otherwise. The "lowest" point on the ceiling is on the wall to the right, so the pencil comes within 1/8" there and stays level all the way around. Leaves a small bit of gap, but I think that will be fine given a bit more smoothing the texture and a paint and prime.

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After I got that done, I realized I needed to get the floor done so that I can "work up" from the finished floor to the final row of tile on the shower (tiling DOWN the wall on the edges of the tub seems like a patently bad idea - though I'm certain you pros could pull it off, I'm fairly certain I'd hose it up .

So....off to finish floor prep.

Cleaned it really stinking well with a razor blade and some goo-b-gone.

Primed it with Custom's acrylic primer (the bright blue stuff). Let that dry a few hours.

Mixed up 50 lbs of Custom's self leveler, poured, troweled, and used one of those little spiky rollers (cool tool!).

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Let that dry 24 hours.

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And started dry-setting the floor tile in an attempt to avoid similar layout mistakes on the floor

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Here's the work around the toilet flange (do I need to custom cut a couple of the larger pieces and fill some gaps?). It's hard to tell in this image, but I did surround the flange with cardboard and weight that down before pouring the self leveler - the flange collar still spins like it's supposed to.

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Here's my go-forward plan. Please jump in with suggestions.

1. Finish the dry set, with the exception of the very last course by the door. Will cut this one to fit while the thinset is wet. My thinking is that this gives me "fudge room" if the layout changes slightly during setting.

2. Label the mosaic sections so I know what order they go back down in.

3. Use Custom Natural Stone and Large Tile White and a 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4 trowel to set the floor. (Is this the right mortar for this application? Seems to be the right thing from the Orange Store). If the Mapei is significantly better, the Blue Store has Mapei's "Large Tile and Stone Mortar" in white. Thoughts?

4. After the mortar cures for a day, clean with a damp sponge and water. Let dry.

5. Apply 511 Impregnator Sealer according to instructions.

6. Let cure at least a couple more days.

7. Use Fusion Pro grout on the floor according to instructions.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:29 AM   #48
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I would mark the floor in places at the edge of some of the tiles to make sure they go back down close to where they are now. I like laying them against a straight edge whenever possible.

That thinset will work even though you aren't setting large tiles. I think I would go with a 3/16 V notch instead of the 1/4 square notch.

Something else I do that helps get the tiles flat, I bought a piece of 12x12 marble (any color will do) and I glued a handle on the middle of the back side. Then, as I'm setting the tiles I gently press on the mosaics with the marble, move over and press again. Go over the area you just set and then spread more thinset and do it again.
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Old 02-27-2018, 07:43 AM   #49
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Looking really good Jay!!
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:36 AM   #50
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Question

Thanks for the call on the trowel. I'll give that one a shot and check coverage.

The marble piece is a brilliant idea. The videos online recommend using a float...but a 12x12 flat weight seems like a great idea.

I'm using a laser line and have several guides drawn on the floor. A china pencil on the tiles to line up to floor guides is a good idea, too.
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:41 AM   #51
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Looking good, Jay. Greetings from a fellow Roo (engaged in a bathroom remodel myself). When did you graduate?
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:10 PM   #52
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Wolfgang -

Wowsa. Not something you expect to run in to at random.

2001. You?
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Old 02-27-2018, 06:07 PM   #53
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Finishing up the dry set.

It turns out that the remainder is EXACTLY one-half of a sheet - but that leaves the "points" out. The "left out" points are 5/8" deep. Any reason not to just cover the gap with trim, rather than spending a few hours cutting points to fit?

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Old 02-27-2018, 06:45 PM   #54
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Looks like toe space on cabinet? IMHO, they're mostly too deep anyway, so yeah, cover with baseboard. You could even shim it out from kick board some but might run into problems at transition to finished end.

When I'm building cabs, I make toe space about 2" deep.

While you're at it all, I'd figure on replacing the stops valves on your sink and toilet with 1/4 turns. You could take care of that nasty looking escutcheon too...
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:37 PM   #55
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No such thing as graduating from AC for me, Jay. But that's because I teach there. I started in 2012.

Your thinset mortar choice is fine. My favorite from Custom is actually the Flexbond. It can be whipped into this nice creamy consistency and is excellent for natural stone and porcelain as it offers maximum adhesion (or so I hope).

As pertains to your grout choice, I am somewhat wary of Fusion Pro. But to be honest, that's because I read quite a few negative comments about it, mostly about non-removable haze. Again, some people swear by it. I myself have decided to go with the Laticrete Spectralock two-part epoxy grout in the shower. I did the regular Polyblend on my porcelain tile bathroom floor, and it turned out ok. Color consistency is not perfect (which is a common complaint). I've heard though that cementitious grouts in the premium league are worth the extra money. Custom's Prism comes to mind (likely an online-to store order for Home Depot). Make sure you get the grout you really want.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:23 PM   #56
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Either I'm learning, or floors are much easier than walls, or both . Got all but the last course before the transition done tonight.

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Wolfgang -

I used the Flexbond on the walls, but got scared off when the bag didn't indicate compatibility with natural stone. I did prefer the texture of the Flexbond, but it didn't seem to matter much on the floors.

On the Fusion Pro, I read that fast work cycles (alternating between grouting and cleaning in just a small number of minutes) is the trick. I'm a bit afraid of the epoxy grouts having read lots of folks saying it's more difficult.

Davy -

Thanks a TON for the trowel advice. The 1/4" would've been a hellacious mess. The 3/16" covered quite well and I had almost no "bleeders", saving tons of grout line cleanout time.

Peter -

Yep, toe space. More trim incoming

Already replaced the sink valves (see the earlier posts for the horror story that forced that). There's not really any extra copper outside the wall, and I'm not a terribly great plumber. Think it's worth it to dig out the wall?
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:51 AM   #57
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Flexbond is fine as long as you use white. The moisture from the thinset will probably give the marble a gray cast but will lighten back out.

Some installers like the Fusion grout, I'm not in that camp. I found the Colorflex to be easier to work with.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:23 AM   #58
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My perspective on valves might be different than yours, but I almost always include stop valves in my kitchen and bath remodels. Old gate valves are inferior to 1/4 turn ball valves now commonly available because the rubber in gate seals deteriorates with age, which often means they no longer completely shut off. Plus there were and are some really cheesy valves out there...notably plastic crap.

I take some pride in my plumbing as much of what I deal with seems shortsighted on the part of original installer and I correct as much as practical given the situation. I'm working in a house now that the crawlspace gate valve shutoff is convenient but doesn't shut off completely so it's mostly useless.

I'd cut the drywall and do what I had to in order to get new compression valves in place. But then drywall repairs don't seem like a big deal to me so there's that...
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Old 03-03-2018, 02:10 PM   #59
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Ok. you convinced me. Cut the wall open. Transitioned the copper to pex and installed a new valve, escutheon, etc.

I laid all the field tile more than a week ago (on both wall and floor). This afternoon, I'm laying the last of the edge tiles on both floor and wall.

I'm going to 511 Impregnator Seal the floor marble today.

How long do I need to wait before I grout? Some places say "24 hours", some "24 to 48" and some "1 week." Ideally, I'd like to grout tomorrow - but the last thing I want to do is hurry something along at this point

Advice?
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Old 03-03-2018, 04:08 PM   #60
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On Peterís comment: I agree that ball valves are the best way to go and I too like each fixture to have itís own valve. However, Iíve not encountered a gate valve with rubber gaskets; theyíve all been brass on brass for sealing and never seen one fail to close all the way. Stubborn from disuse, yes. Globe valves (and their cousins) seen to always be problematic after a few years. My mom always seems to have some kind of plumbing problem in one sink or another. The rubber valve washers in these are always deteriorated. I always bring fresh rubber seals and packing material for the stem when I head over there for those calls. Rebuilding the valve takes about 10 minutes and itís good to go for another ten years. I just hope mom is too.
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