Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-27-2017, 09:08 PM   #16
nelsonkoehn
showers & more
 
nelsonkoehn's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: El Campo, TX
Posts: 701
Generally, a shower door must swing out, for reasons as stated. It can also swing in.

How about setting the the door opening in a mix of 'A' and 'B'. Don't do the return on the 45 wall. Bring the inside 90 walls into the opening and then fold them back on a 45 for the door opening. When you get to the thickness of the curb fold that back on a 90, and then another 45 fold for the outside of the 90 walls.



That was confusing!



Try these. I don't really have good pics of what I am trying to say but maybe you can piece these together.

Name:  100_0888.jpg
Views: 104
Size:  29.6 KB
Name:  100_0890.jpg
Views: 103
Size:  32.5 KB
Name:  100_0897.jpg
Views: 105
Size:  75.8 KB

That will give you maximum width for the doorway, and keep from that sharp outside 135 corner.
__________________
Nelson

tile.nkoehn.com
nelsonkoehn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2017, 09:44 PM   #17
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 12,241
There's also a code minimum door width opening into the shower...make sure you account for that, which when using glass, where and how you hinge it could imping on that opening size.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2017, 08:04 AM   #18
Lednar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 11
Thank you all for your input. Ed, the existing piping and shower head is located inside the wall located to the left of the shower door opening if you are looking inside the doorway. I'm planning on keeping it this way as it keeps you out of the line of fire that you are describing. The new shower door will open outwards just like the previous one. The entry space for the door should be about 25 inches wide, and as I understand it that is up to code. I would really love to have a shower with exterior shower walls (non-load bearing walls) made entirely of glass but the current setup of the piping for the shower and the room in general unfortunately wouldn't allow any of that.
__________________
Chris
Lednar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2018, 04:33 PM   #19
Lednar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 11
I had to put this shower project on hold for a couple of months but I'm back on it now. I've had the old shower drain replaced as recommended, installed the pre-slope using deck mud with no problem, added the waterproof liner and tested it over night for leaks and it's all good. For the next step, do I 1) install the deck mud top slope of the shower floor then install the cement backer board, or 2) install the cement backer board then install the top slope? I have a manual that says to install the top slope first then the backer boards, but I've seen another that says to do the reverse. Does it actually matter? BTW I haven't forgotten about installing the vapor barrier prior to installing the cement backer board. Thanks!
__________________
Chris
Lednar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2018, 05:25 PM   #20
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 12,241
There are two classes of cbu: 'real' cement, and fiber-cement. The method differs based on which one you have. You cannot embed a fiber-cement cbu into the mudbed (Hardie-Backer is a fiber-cement board). This is problematic when building a shower since you cannot put fasteners lower than 2" above the top of the curb, which means the lower section can't be anchored. The 'real' cement boards can be embedded in the mudbed, and when you do that, that bottom edge is locked in place against the wall.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2018, 06:04 PM   #21
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 9,506
Chris, our records show that it's been seven months since you've worked on this project. You'll need to tear it all out and start over.

I would recommend Durock, Permabase, or Wonderboard. Any of those you can get at the big box stores. Install them first, then the mud on top of the liner. The mud will hold the bottom few inches of the board in place against the top of the liner and the studs.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2018, 09:01 PM   #22
Lednar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 11
Man it took over 2 months just to find a plumber that would actually come out and replace the drain, so that delayed me for a while. Every plumber I talked to would tell me they would call me back with a price quote but would never actually call back. I guess they didn't need my money :-( But I'm finally back at it.

Durarock it is then. I would rather set the backer board in the deck mud. Thanks for your input fellas!
__________________
Chris
Lednar is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kerdi drain install on cast iron drain in 3" slab? crobinson22 Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 06-08-2014 06:20 PM
How level should my slab be? mhand Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 11-12-2010 12:01 AM
Shower Drain Not Level In Slab Fizziks Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 01-08-2010 10:54 AM
level drain flash gordon Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 06-03-2004 05:08 PM
Can't you level that slab with thinset as you go!?! LDavis The Mud Box 24 12-28-2001 10:43 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:05 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2014 John Bridge & Associates, LLC