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Old 02-21-2018, 08:34 PM   #1
Chairandy
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Andy's bath remodel

Plan on using a 48 X 48 Schluter shower tray in a 40" X 48" shower area. Plan to cut 4 ' on each parallel side. I realize this will result in a slightly different perimeter height from the 48" sides. My question is ... has anyone successfully floated the perimeter edge to make up difference? Can thinset be used after the membrane is installed? If it was done ... what size tile was installed?
Any comments will be appreciated..
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Old 02-21-2018, 08:53 PM   #2
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Almost no humans will ever notice the slight, slight, slight difference. Yes, it's possible to float it. But why mess with such a smooth and even slope to make up a tiny difference that I don't think anyone will notice or appreciate?

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Old 02-21-2018, 09:22 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input. You confirmed my suspicion... Thanks...
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:34 PM   #4
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I had to cut back about 12” (maybe a bit more) from one side to work around the bench. It’s on the rectangular foam tray, but the height difference in my case was much more than you’d be looking at with square tray. If you’re looking for it, you can see the difference at the tiles around the face of the bench. I hid it with the edge tiles. No one has commented or even given it a second look. I think you’ll be fine with no special extra work.
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Old 02-21-2018, 10:42 PM   #5
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If you tile the walls first, then the floor, chances are the floor tile thickness will overcome the variation in levelness.

The smaller the wall tiles the more the unlevelness will show. As long as you aren't using 1/2" tall linear tiles you should be OK
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:00 AM   #6
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Shower corner input requested..

Using Kerdi board on shower walls and have a short wall that will be plastered on one side and Kerdi on other. My concern is where they meet at corner of a 2X4 wall. This wall will have a shower door mounted on it. Should metal be used or can I do the outside corner with Kerdi since they will be tiled. My concern is how to mesh the Kerdi to a plastered corner? It is a short wall. Is it better to Kerdi both surfaces ( waterproof with Kerdi band) and omit the plaster altogether?
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:05 PM   #7
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Kerdi can be wrapped around an outside corner that is getting tile on the two adjacent surfaces.

But I’m not following which surfaces will be what. Can you clarify a bit?

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Old 03-13-2018, 07:10 AM   #8
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Clarification on question..

The 2 by 4 wall in question is where shower door will be hung. It is perpendicular to inside wall of shower. It will have tile on both sides ( in and out of shower)and end. Kerdi board panels will be used and would like to avoid any build up if metal is used on outside corners. Can i wrap the corner without metal .... just use Kerdi board and apply Kerdi ban ?
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:04 AM   #9
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No need for drywall corner bead if both surfaces are to be tiled.

I'm unclear on how the door factors into equation. Perhaps a drawing or photo would be helpful.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:55 PM   #10
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Installation of curb marble on 45 degree question...

I have to cut a marble curb on a 45 degree angle and need input regarding spacing at seam. My concern is waterproofing the seam. Should there be a small seam to allow for grout or should it be a tight seam. I was planning on a grout line but can it be done without grout? Three is a shower door that will be installed on marble and the interior portion will be exposed to water... how do I make it waterproof? I am using a Schluter system....
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:25 PM   #11
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Andy, I've combined three of your threads that seem to be about the same shower. We like to keep all questions regarding a single project on a single thread so that the history of the project is in one place, and questions and answers aren't duplicated. It makes things much easier on our all-volunteer staff. We can make the title of the thread something more generic if you want, such as "Andy's bathroom remodel".

Since you're building a Kerdi shower, you should have a layer of Kerdi over the curb. That would be your waterproofing, and anything above that is just for decoration.

There's no hard and fast rule about whether to leave a joint there, but it would be my preference to have no joint there and to have the pieces butt up to each other. You'll need a really clean cut and straight joint there, and the angles have to be precise on both sides.

I would suggest you make a mock-up with some 1x6's or scrap tile or something similar to get your angle cuts just right before making the final cut on your threshold.
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:23 PM   #12
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I have the opposite take on the curb joint. With marble there may be very slight chipping on the cut edge that requires it to be hit with a sanding block or polishing pad, resulting in a micro bevel. If the joint isn’t 100% tight (whether from micro bevel, slightly off cut, whatever) there’s a chance for it to spall, collect gunk, etc. So I put a deliberate joint at the seam and grout it.

Just my two cents.
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Old 03-26-2018, 05:48 AM   #13
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regarding combining threads..

Thanks for all the input for my project. Agree to combine enquiries.... not sure what the procedure is??? Andy's bath remodel is OK...
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:53 PM   #14
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Cement board over 3/4 ply installation with screws..

Does 1/4 inch Durock cement board over 3/4 t&g glued ply with I joist at 16 oc need to be set in thinset? Will screws be adequate to secure board before Kerdi heat mat and tile? Communication was a problem and cement board has been installed without thinset...
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Old 03-28-2018, 08:09 PM   #15
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Probably...all cbu manufacturers call for thinset underneath their boards. This is not to hold it down, but to fill in any minor imperfections so that the entire board is fully supported so there can be no vertical movement (other than whatever the subflooring and joist structure can allow). They do this for a reason...you might get lucky, but is it worth tearing it all out if the tile fails?
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