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Old 05-23-2012, 10:00 PM   #31
lzena
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Question When is the tile sealed?

I finally got the tiles clean... What worked the best in the end was using full strength Vim, with a little water to make it workable, and a fine steel wool sanding sponge. I scrubbed a little bit, then let the Vim dry on the tile. The powder seem to have pulled the grease stains out of the tile, they look very good now. Heck of a job to clean it off again.

And I started sealing. My latest conundrum: why does the tile keep turning dark as if it needs more sealer?

I am using an Aldon sealer: Same day tile and grout sealer. I have done 4 applications, waiting a minimum of 3 hours in between, once as much as 2 days. But the tile still turns dark when I do a water test. There is so much sealer on the floor that it is actually leaving a white layer of dried sealer on top of the tile. (but I know how to get that off). And yes, I followed the instructions and made sure to make a puddle that I moved over the tiles. I used a full gallon on 100 sft...

All I can think is that the tile will stop turning dark when the sealer is cured? A water drop forms a bead on the tile, after several minutes the drop is still beaded, but the tile is dark under the bead.
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Old 05-24-2012, 04:29 AM   #32
Davestone
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I wouldn't use any more sealer.That sealer is a penetrating,and typically you use a topical afterwards,which will seal it against moisture.True it may not be totally sealed or cured yet,but the topical should finish it off....http://www.aldonchem.com/mt-mexican-tile.htm
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:36 AM   #33
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Thank you Dave,

Will the lifeguard suffice as a topical sealer? Or should I use another product like the crystal glaze. I don't want the gloss from the crystal glaze.

I tiler friend gave me a gallon of stone spray-and-seal from SCI. Should I use that rather?
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Old 05-24-2012, 01:48 PM   #34
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I would use the Lifeguard if you don't want the full on shiney look.I wouldn't use the spray on i would stick with the same sealers recommended to go over the initial sealer.
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Old 08-07-2012, 03:26 PM   #35
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Restoration instruction

HI Linda,

You might be interested in this link on Rustico Tile and Stone's website. They deal with these Mexican clay floors on a daily basis and give some good information. Sealer matters tremendously.... the better quality tile sealer that you use, the less maintenance you'll have over the years. Avoid waxing. Rustico's "Green" sealer is quite good and environmentally-friendly.

Cheers!

saltillotileconnection.com/care-and-maintenance

info@rusticots.com - they are very quick to reply to emails!
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:14 PM   #36
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Welcome, terracotta tile expert. Please change that permanent signature line to a first name for us to use.

And if you're affiliated with that company in some capacity , please indicate that in your user profile and add a title below your name in the signature line.

We're always happy to have manufacturer and dealer reps on board, but we like to have full disclosure for the benefit of our visitors. Thanks.
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Old 09-19-2017, 03:05 PM   #37
BelkaCA
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Sealer

I have the same type of kitchen tile(done in 80s). I don't think the tiles came with any original finish(glaze), so there is no problem sanding or scrubbing it... Check those deep scrapes, do they look different than the surface of the tile? If there is a glaze, you will see a difference.
If the tile is old, there is no finish/sealer on it already, as it goes away in 2-3 years due to traffic even if it was applied. BUT there is grime, which is mixture of dirt, food stain and cooking grease that splashes when you fry or cook with oils. White stain is from mineral deposits from water, some of it will be gone when you use a stripper solution, but the rest is in the pores of the tile, but it will go away if you apply a proper penetrating sealer, it will remove the "salted" stains and also will waterproof the tile. I use water-based concrete and masonry penetrating sealer BEHR "concrete&masonry waterproofer on all terracota,
including modern patio tiles and reused brick of my fireplace(not as a finish, but to penetrate into the pores). It's a watery solution with silicone in it, I apply it with a spray bottle, then spread it with a cloth and in 15-20 min I remove the excess that was not absorbed into the tile. Some tiles start to look we(darker), but it will go away. If you do not remove the excess, it will harden into opaque glue-like smears, so make sure you remove all of it from floor and make sure there are no splashes on the furniture. I use a squeegee on a flat patio tile. DO NOT USE PENETRATING SEALER if you didn't degrease and strip the tile, as it will need to be absorbed by the pores of the tile and grout.
Don't be afraid to use regular steel wood from a paint store, it works much better in grooves and crevices than sand paper. Instead of stripper, I use regular all-purpose cleaner(409) and alkaline grout cleaner, and a lot of elbow grease of course. It is a lot of work to degrease those tiles, but once you get it to the original condition, it will be much easier to maintain. I also patched biggest holes in the tile(from dropped skillets?). I used untinted terracotta tile repair mix(comes in tubs) with "Liquid Cement Color" by Quickrete, it comes in several shades of terracotta. I mixed several colors for each patch and added my own acrylic yellow art pain to match the color. The patch will change color when it dries, so try on a piece of cardboard first, it's really an art work more than anything. I spent hours and hours working on this and it looks much nicer now. Several tiles were badly damaged, so I smeared the tinted tile repair mix over entire tile, it's been over 10 years and it still didn't come off, except 1 spot where something hard and heavy was dropped. I sanded the surface of the patches after they dried.
BUT THERE PROBLEM STILL REMAINS: the surface is uneven and black grease grime sets in no matter what, it's hard to clean and I was wondering what to do about it. I used a "Glaze' N Seal" lacquer as finish(recommended by a tile store), it was extremely toxic and we had to leave the house for the night. I had to use a special mask and got lightheaded anyway.
Now, it's been over 10 years and I need to reapply the finish. So I wonder if anyone can recommend a water-based finish that can be applied as a thick layer over entire surface including between the tiles. It would fill-in the small holes and make it easier to clean. I've seen this finish on the floors of XIX century Santa Barbara City Hall, all of the flooring there is antique spanish tile and you can see a layer of something that looks like glass over it(epoxy?), making the surface more even and easier to clean.
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Old 09-21-2017, 10:46 PM   #38
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Welcome, Natalia.

Thread's five years old if you didn't notice.

And would you please give us some paragraph breaks in those long posts. Makes the reading so much easier.
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