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Old 12-13-2017, 06:32 PM   #61
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Performing flood test, I am.

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Old 12-16-2017, 02:40 PM   #62
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Did it pass with Jedi power?
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:48 PM   #63
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The force is strong with this one.

50 hours and maybe 1/16" drop. Humidity has been in the single digits so I'm surprised it dropped so little.
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Old 12-16-2017, 11:46 PM   #64
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Great! It wasn't until after my own flood test that I truly started trusting the Kerdi. I am still amazed at how good that stuff is. But then, as a German I feel somewhat partial to the company.
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Old 12-17-2017, 12:14 AM   #65
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They do make 45-degree corners now.
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Old 12-19-2017, 12:56 PM   #66
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Trying to plan ahead so I don't tile myself into a corner... or any odd slivers and mismatches.

Looking at the tub corner I think I've got a good plan. Using bullnose on the edges created a bit of an issue on the vertical edge. It seemed to stand out too much on the front of the tub so I was going to put it on the shower side.

The other issue is that I wanted to use full tiles across the bottom of the shower and also the bottom of the tub wall, not realizing that they are at different elevations. So the horizontal grout line in the shower doesn't match the one on the tub wall. The alternative is to cut the bottom row shorter in the shower, but I think that would be worse.

Here's the tub corner and the planned layout (shower on the right):

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Old 12-19-2017, 02:57 PM   #67
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On the vertical bullnose, I think it would look better to cut it so that the grout line height matches the adjoining field tiles.

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Old 12-19-2017, 04:07 PM   #68
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There are no rules so you can do it any way you want. I usually want full tiles on the tub skirt at the top against the BN and put the cut at the bottom at the floor. The reason is because I make the tub deck level. The floor I have little control of and could be out of level so I want to cut the bottom row to fit. Then that joint would continue around to the shower walls making the cuts at the floor. The tiles on the wall behind the tub would be nearly full tiles at the bottom, just the BN thickness plus one joint cut off of those. Those would line up with the shower joints.

Wayne, I think he's showing the shower side on the right to be an inch or two higher than the tiles on the left side of the BN. He's using the BN to break up the different heights.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:32 PM   #69
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Another thing, since you have the skirt on the shower side open, I would have installed tile on the deck top and then set the tub on top of the tiles. It's much easier that way.

In my opinion, since the tub is set (I assume it is) I would set the tiles on top next so they are up against the tub lip before tiling the face or shower walls.
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:37 PM   #70
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Tub is set. Originally planned to set it on top of tile but chickened out because I have no plumbing access. I wanted to make certain that all connections were secure and leak tight so I set the tub, tightened everything, and then leak tested. Kinda glad I did because I tried setting the tub 3 times before getting it right. Shouldn't be too hard to cut the tile just short of tub and caulk it.

I see the point of cutting the bottom row, but don't think it will look right compared to the shower and cutting the entire bottom row in the shower wouldn't look good either. Here's how it would look to put full tiles at top:

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But while I was changing the model I added the lower grout line before removing the upper one and I kinda like how this worked. I'm now thinking of making the front wall entirely out of the same size tiles (approx.). A bit of extra work but no uneven end pieces. Like this:

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Or this:

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Old 12-19-2017, 08:24 PM   #71
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I don't really follow you on setting the tub. The valves could have been set with the tub out of the way. Now you have to install them thru the skirt. But what you're doing will work, just a little tougher.

I wouldn't cut the tiles just short of the tub and tile it. I would want the tiles under the tub lip and then caulk it. If you run the tiles short of the tub, the caulk will just keep falling in the void.

Whichever way you do it, I would at least lay out some tiles to see what size cuts you'll have at the ceiling and at the window behind the tub. I wouldn't want slivers there.
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:45 PM   #72
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Oops, sorry for the noise, I missed the whole point of the question. :-)

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Old 12-20-2017, 10:19 AM   #73
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My tub drain had multiple slip fit connections, with some of them near the end of the inside tube. I wanted to be 100% sure that this was secure and leak free and felt that I needed the tub secured and in place to accomplish this, understanding that it would make the tile work a little more difficult.

Now I'm trying to understand how you get the bullnose to match up to the field tile on the other wall and maintain the proper grout joint (1/8"). I'm guessing that I set the field tile first, with the edge even with the other wall. Then I set the bullnose, bringing the rounded edge even with the face of the field tile, and press the bullnose into the thinset until I get the 1/8" grout joint.
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Old 12-20-2017, 10:51 AM   #74
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For your last question, I think you need to have a fairly good idea of what the finished thickness of your cured thinset will be. The method you propose will work if the cured thinset thickness will be 1/8". But if it will be, say, 3/16", then the field tile should overhang the tile substrate on the perpendicular wall by 1/16", if you want to end up with a 1/8" grout joint.

On the tile layout, have you considered putting a horizontal grout line on the shower wall to line up with the top of the tub deck? Then the wall tile under the window would flow into the shower. But that would leave you with partial tiles at the bottom of the shower wall and the tub skirt. Alternatively you could stick with a full tile at the bottom of the shower wall and use a cove base or a thicker "baseboard" tile at the bottom of the tub skirt.

Just wanted to throw those ideas into the mix, in case you like any of them.

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Old 12-20-2017, 11:21 AM   #75
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I see where you're going Wayne. I'll be stopping short of the window with the tile and after the bullnose I'll only have a short tile below. Here's an early picture of the plan, before I had bullnose, so it should look roughly like this except with bullnose around the edge:

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But I didn't really think about where the grout line falls coming out of the shower... Looks like I got more thinking to do.
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