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Old 11-03-2017, 05:00 AM   #151
jondon
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Quote:
posted by CX:
Not sure why you couldn't paint that Wedi board, Jon, 'specially if you wanted a sand finish.
Yeh I spose you could For a ceiling though that could take some work and not sure if it wouldn't create more work. For what he is speaking of doing the steam shower "down the road" he will want to slope the ceiling so it would have to come down anyway so I would just rock it at this time and leave the tile a little short the ceiling but so it looks finished.

For the Wedi I was speaking of the walls not the shower pan. We do mud pans and we like the kerdi fabric for the pan. We can put the mud in one day, kerdi it the next and be on it. If you wait 3 days like over a weekend and liquid the pan you can't be on it right away. They all make the membrane now so it wouldn't have to be kerdi, I have used others just different colors IMO. I stopped seeing colors, I only see a membrane now
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:26 PM   #152
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Man. Putting Kerdi on isn't super enjoyable. Almost done. I think I've out down over 200 sq ft.

Anyway, on walls, can I use modified thinset to level things out like the tapered edged of the durock? Figured modified would be better but could use unmodified. Was going to level things out and tile much later.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:25 AM   #153
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If you are going over the membrane to level areas out or dips I would use modified since you are not tiling it till later. Air is going to dry it out, when you tile of kerdi they want unmodified because the polymers can't dry properly. Modified is fine.
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Old 11-07-2017, 08:33 AM   #154
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More curiosity than anything else. Would unmodified also work? I was afraid it would dry out too fast when leveling over Kerdi and then not tiling. That's why I was thinking modified.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:05 PM   #155
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Quote:
More curiosity than anything else. Would unmodified also work? I was afraid it would dry out too fast when leveling over Kerdi and then not tiling. That's why I was thinking modified.
The Kerdi membrane won't absorb moisture, so the thinset shouldn't dry out prior to being able to cure, so an unmodified would work. If you want, and it never hurts, you would wipe the surface down with a wet sponge before spreading the thinset.

Ideally, your surface would be flat and true prior to adding the membrane. If you're encountering the tapered edges of the drywall, if you use a long enough tool to embed the membrane's fleece, you can make that all flat without the extra step of filling it in first by bridging that area onto the higher, flat parts of the drywall sheet with the tool's long edge.

Or, if the size of the shower would allow, just cut off that tapered edge. It's not worth adding another piece, but if you cut it off and it will still minimize the joints...go for it.
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:47 PM   #156
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Good thing I'm going on vacation. I'm so over this Kerdi stuff

Especially doing corners and edges laying under a bench with 14" of space. Nothing like banging your head into the underside of the bench and dripping thinset on your face.

So, all done. Kinda. Mostly. Yeh, it's done. Right bottom edge of the bench, there's an air pocket. I had a couple of others that I cut out and redid while everything was wet but I'll tackle this one later. Kerdi on imperfect edges is a pain.

So, should I cut out a 1/2" by 3" strip on the bottom right front of the bench and patch it later. It doesn't got to the corner so not worried about waterproofing just want to make sure the tile sets properly? Tile will be 24" long by 4" if that makes any difference.

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Old 11-23-2017, 02:40 PM   #157
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If I want to gain 3/16" in bench height, could I add a layer of ditra on top of the Kerdi? Or that just creating a waterproof sandwich no-no.

Also, when using Schluter Jolly you folks think it would look better with the widest visible part on the horizontal plane or the vertical plane? As in set the profile under the niche and bench 'floor' tile or under the wall tile.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:57 AM   #158
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Schluter shows that you can add two layers of factory Kerdi clad foam together for projects such as walls and counter tops and benches. I understand your concern but would think you could add the detra. See what others say.
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:22 PM   #159
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According to Schluter, ditra on top of Kerdi is not a good idea. Aesthetics question. Don't hold back.

Orient vertically or horizontally? Will be on all 3 walls.
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Old 01-12-2018, 07:53 PM   #160
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Ok. Looking at it more. Definitely horizontally. I have to say lining up the niche opening, grout lines and tile on the 3 walls is a gigantic pain. Was originally going to do the back wall using a different tile but I'm leaning towards blue on all 3 for sure. One more question.

The tile from the side wall going into the niche. Do a full tile up the entire wall and have a sliver of slightly more at be back niche corner. Or cut the tile the length of the long corner by a sliver so I'm left with 3/4 to 7/8th of the tile and end up with a full tile at the back corner of the niche?

Half tempted to get someone to cut me some custom colored acrylic that I'll just slap on the walls.
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Old 01-12-2018, 08:38 PM   #161
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And one more ...

For wall tile, assuming a perfect square, does troweling line parallel vs perpendicular to the floor effect anything? Specifically, does direction effect sag?

I have a pretty good laser and don't want to screw a ledger board in simply because I'm starting my tile job in the middle of the wall. I need the tile to line up with that niche exactly so basically starting in the niche and tiling around. Figured I'd do one row all the way around the 3 walls.

Any chance the tiles don't sag? Tiles pictured above.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:15 PM   #162
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Ali,

1- Do whatever Mrs Ali wants.

2- In the absence of #1, plan, plan, measure, plan, measure, and measure some more. Don't forget you can pad one side or the other of your niche to shift the grout joints.

3- Depends on the thinset used and how it is mixed. 4XLT is my favorite thinset and is non sag. Horizontal troweling helps reduce sag
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:39 PM   #163
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Can I thinset a piece of 1/4" or 1/2" cement board onto the Kerdi and then tile on the cement board? Seems like that should be acceptable.

If I do that to the back of the niche, that could potentially help.

If these were large format tiles, it'd be a non issue but since they're close to what I'd call mosaics it's a little tricker lining things up without having slivers.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:41 PM   #164
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Thanks Paul. I can't actually pad the sides of the niche. Since it is wall to wall. I can adjust the bottom, top and back of the niche. Not the sides.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:47 PM   #165
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Ah. But you get the idea which is good
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