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Old 09-10-2017, 08:54 PM   #16
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They make multitools blades with a zig zag carbide edge which will take out more grout in a single pass.
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:28 PM   #17
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Bob, it's hard for me to tell if the thinset mashed up into the joint higher than the tile surface. Is this correct and was the thinset higher than the tiles when you grouted?
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:09 PM   #18
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No thinset is above/overlapping, though it is flush in spots.

Mostly looks like a normal grout job, just done with thinset...

The one wall I regoruted, I took cut joints fully out.

Should I just reseal and leave it alone?
If not is there water proof grout as easy to use as Fusion Pro? (I dont want to mix anything,extra variables will add extra stress)
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:49 AM   #19
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I forged ahead with the de-grouting.

For the sake of not creating a new thread,

I kinda suck at grouting. I got too much grout in spots (grout goes a few mm over the lip of tile in a few joints).

Is this just a cosmetic problem I can leave alone or will it cause grout crumbling OR water seepage issues?


(the only thing under my wall tiles is cement board, floor has a proper basin/liner)
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:38 AM   #20
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All grout is cosmetic, Bob. If you can live with what you've got, your shower can live with what you've got.

If your walls have no water containment membrane you will have long-term problems with moisture migration into your wall cavities, grout or no grout.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:56 AM   #21
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You can use this to help with the residue. The sooner the better.

Although personally, I've found that Lift Off latex paint remover is the best product for the residue.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:19 AM   #22
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Its not 'residue', Im just unskilled at grouting So a few joints came out flush or a tiny bit higher than the tile surface.

As long as its AS water proof as it was before, I'm happy.
and before it was sealant over thinset, no grout, never leaked... fusion pro + 511 should be better than that.
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:30 AM   #23
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Bob, the grout, any grout or other material in the grout joint, is a cosmetic part of you tile installation and has nothing at all to do with the proper waterproofing of a wet area.
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Old 09-14-2017, 01:06 PM   #24
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CX (or anyone really),

For all I know there was a water proof layer over the cement board or plastic behind it.
I know there was no moisture in surrounding walls, ceiling beneath (used a moister tester)

I scraped the backboard while removing the grout, a some strands of the mesh were broken, is this a big deal?

I was told to use a grout that's self sealing (or a high end sealer) and not worry about it since walls don't get submerged.


Edit, bonus question for you pros (or someone who's had it done) whats the average price to gut and put in a new-water proof standard 3'x3'x7' tiled shower?
rough average, I know fluctuates from half to double.

looking online, Im reading $600-$1500 (seems way too low). One contractor recommended a plastic prefab shower,for $1000 + shower ($300)
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Old 09-14-2017, 06:49 PM   #25
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A lot a variables like tile size, demo, niches, accents, profiles, and on and on. But ballpark for a basic one $2-3k
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:42 PM   #26
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thanks! Ill keep regrouting, monitor for leaks. If I spring a leak Ill spring for a new shower.

(hopefully) Last two questions.

1)I've never caulked with silicone. Are there durable/waterproof latex caulks I can use (or is 100% silicone significantly better)?

2)My shower basin has 2 grooves. The go in 3/4" and then hard surface. They were filled with caulk, what are these for? Should I caulk them back up?
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:50 PM   #27
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1. Use 100% silicone

2. Leave them open they are weep holes
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Old 09-15-2017, 12:03 AM   #28
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GE Silicone II Kitchen & Bath or is there something with better adhesion/more idiot proof to apply?
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:17 AM   #29
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As long as its 100% silicone you will be fine. Clean the area with Denatured alcohol, let everything dry, and you be fine. Either tape off the areas to keep silicone off areas you dont want it to get on, or if you have experience with it run your bead then spritz with denatured alcohol or soapy water then tool the bead. The spritz will make it easier to tool.
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Old 09-30-2017, 03:46 PM   #30
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I researched FP a lot before using, this is the first time I've heard FP "won't absorb a sealer". The 2 aquamix sealers listed in the TDS seem to be oilophobic not hydrphobic, I was just hoping someone recommend a hydrophobic water based sealer compatible with FP.


I regrouted my shower, a lot of joints were flawless. Those, I only filed off a thin layer, applied FP. While on avg, I went 1/8" deep, Grount lines are 3/8" wide. Its likely there are some random spots where the old grout is only covered by a paper thin layer of fusion.

Yes, I have read that sealing FP may not add any benefits BUT Id feel way better knowing there is sealer protecting anything I botched.

Numbskull installer used thinset instead of grout, unsealed, it soaks up water much faster than the cheapest grout. With 511 Impregnator, water would bead right up...
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