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Old 08-26-2017, 02:33 PM   #16
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No ANSI standard for the age of the persons using a ceramic tile installation.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:38 PM   #17
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Hi Peter,
Plan was to place the Hardie backer board .25" above the mud bed, then caulk the opening around. This is the recommendation from James Hardie website.
Let me know your thoughts - I do really appreciate everyone's feedback.
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Old 08-26-2017, 02:45 PM   #18
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Just need to squeeze it within a millimeter to be within code. It'll be at least a decade before I hear "dad, this shower is too small".
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Old 08-27-2017, 01:53 PM   #19
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Hi Darius,

Despite what Hardie might say, the only way to secure the bottoms of the CBU sheets is to pack the floor mud against them. That holds them securely against the pan liner and studs. You can't use any nails or screws down there. Nothing can be driven through the liner. So put the CBUs on the walls low enough that they will be embedded in the floor mud. Then do the floor.
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:38 PM   #20
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Thank you John - since I'll redo the mud bed, I will install the backer boards into it.
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Old 08-27-2017, 07:07 PM   #21
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Keep in mind, Darius, that neither the manufacturer of that Hardiebacker nor the ceramic tile industry recommend burrying the bottom of that Fiber/Cement board in the top mud bed of a traditional shower receptor. Perfectly OK for CBUs, but not Fiber/Cement.

Certainly up to you whether you wanna do it or not.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-27-2017, 07:42 PM   #22
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Darius

If you have not bought your ceement board yet you could save a lot of labor and dust mess by going to Menards and getting a foam board called go board. You can carry all the sheets inside in one trip and it cuts with a razor knife.

It costs a little more but I think that is offset by the fact that you do not have to buy liquid waterproofing for the ceement board. You will have to tape(waterproof) the corners and seams.

Again do not put screws in any board down low into your liner. Bury the board in the top mud bed which should be at least 1.25-1.5 inch thick over the whole floor.If your pre slope was done right with 1/4" slope per foot from the farthest point from the drain you should be able to mark a level line 1.5" up from the liner on the 3 wall and the inside of the curb and set the drain up the same height. Now pack mud and screed from level lines to the drain.
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Old 08-29-2017, 01:14 PM   #23
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Gents,
What's the best way to breakup the mortar bed. Not the fastest, but the most effective taking into consideration that the pre-slope not crack/break or the membrane rip.
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Old 08-29-2017, 01:22 PM   #24
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Hi Mark,
I did actually buy the Hardie backer boards already. Will look more into this once i'm done removing the current mud bed.
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Old 08-29-2017, 01:40 PM   #25
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https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4438920819.htm

that go board is 20 bucks a 3x5 sheet. I was tempted to use it, but at that price, no way.

I broke up my first mud pan attempt using an air hammer with a wide chisel. Took seconds to get it into quarter size pieces.
EDIT
I just realized you are trying to break it up without damaging the liner.....good luck....
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:06 PM   #26
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Round 2

So i took out the mud bed and redid it. Much better results, IMO.
Also included a pic of the pre-slope - took great care to not crack it when breaking the mortar. Also finished the curb.
Let me know your thoughts!
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:27 PM   #27
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:03 PM   #28
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So, one of the backer boards is not even and is bulging out slightly - see pics below. Should i replace the board, or even it out somehow? It pretty much keeps this shape the entire width of the board.
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Old 09-10-2017, 05:19 PM   #29
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You could pull one of the sheets down and add blocking between the studs. I would go ahead and add 2x4 blocks in each stud bay so that both sheets can be fastened.

Edit; If you have to remove one of the sheets on the side walls, I'd add blocking there too. Sure won't hurt anything.
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:37 PM   #30
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I agree with Davy. I use 5/8 inch or thicker plywood for backer. Cut like an 8 inch square. Remove one sheet of hardi, probably the upper sheet. Screw the backing piece to the back side of the lower piece. Leaving half of the 8 inch square showing above the bottom piece of hardi. Then reinstall the upper sheet and screw that upper sheet to that piece of plywood.

Or. Use 2x4s to go stud to stud in each bay at the height of the hardi seem. I like to set the 2xs on edge so that i get a lot more to screw to.

I am neither clever nor funny
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