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Old 08-13-2017, 05:12 PM   #46
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:46 PM   #47
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Early it was asked about setting over fresh mud. Unless you have some unusual situation Schluter detra or Kerdi can be set over concrete as soon as its hard enough to walk on. Water in the concrete is removed by chemical reaction, not by drying. Slows down the cure process which is a good thing also.
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:41 PM   #48
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It's like the old REM song. Everybody Hurts!
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:32 AM   #49
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Here's a pic....Bed is 1 3/4" under the drain flange, 2 1/2" out at the walls. Not perfect, but I was careful to remove any "bulges" between the outer perimeter level line and the drain, so I have a nice, even slope down to the drain, slightly more than a 1/4" per foot. Curb is thin-set to the floor and walls, and is embedded in the mud bed on one side, and the concrete I poured in the floor on the other side to fill the gap created when I moved the curb inward(remember, it'a s sunken shower). The curb is level....and it sits on the sunken part of the shower. I poured fiberglass-reinforced concrete into the gap left by moving the curb.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:29 AM   #50
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I finally found some Kerabond T!! Yay!!! Floor and Decor had it....None at Lowes, and HD seems to sell Versabond, and a bunch of cheap stuff I never heard of.
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Old 08-15-2017, 05:58 PM   #51
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Floor and decor had better prices for much of the tools and materials we bought for our shower. Great return policy also.
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:07 PM   #52
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Yeah, that return policy at F&D is great until you get some culls that someone else returned. Be careful what you buy. Been there several times.
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Old 08-17-2017, 07:34 AM   #53
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Ok, CX, here's some observations on thinset..... I first started using Mapei Floor Tile Mortar which meets 118.1 After reading some bad things, I switched to KerabondT. The differences noticed are these: The residual thinset that is scraped off the outsides of the Kerdiband tells a tale - The floor tile(cheap stuff) mortar seems to contain a lot of sand, and when rubbed hard, flakes off the kerdi board and leaves only residual white cement in small amounts. The KerabondT, when rubbed, doesn't go anywhere unless rubbed REALLY hard. I used the cheap stuff on the Kerdiband to put patches over the fasteners on the Kerdiboard. I used the kerabondT on the kerdi that covers the mud bed and the corner pieces and band that surrounds it. It's working time is shorter, it spreads a bit smoother, and seems to have bonded the kerdi very well. I have no doubts about the work I did with the floor tile mortar, as those patches appear to be anchored very well. But, it's easy to see why chasing down a better product is a good idea.
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Old 08-17-2017, 09:42 AM   #54
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We're glad it worked out well for you.

I've used Kerabond, but never the KerabondT. The better quality mortars are generally easier to work with than the cheaper mortars.
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Old 08-17-2017, 02:33 PM   #55
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I should have never filled it with water to test it, because I keep running in there every hour to see it.
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Old 08-17-2017, 03:59 PM   #56
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I caution clients that it's going to look like a weird conglomeration of orange and mortar then that odd looking pan will be filled with water overnight. Be funny to set up a hidden camera and see what transpires while I'm gone.

I think for many it's a little bit fascinating if not a source of concern. I'll bet some have questioned my sanity...
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Old 08-18-2017, 07:04 AM   #57
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Check this morning, no loss of water. I pulled the plug and all the water went down the drain, with no puddles or pools left standing. This seems most important to me, because it says I got the slope correct.
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Old 08-19-2017, 05:14 AM   #58
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Congrats on the work done. Seems like your of to a good start


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Old 08-22-2017, 10:11 AM   #59
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Need suggestions please!!! The picture of the plumbing is how this house, built in 1977, is plumbed for two vanity sinks, on on each wall. This corner is a corner of an exterior block wall, with 1x2 strips nailed to block and drywall nailed on top. Basically, if I wanted to reroute plumbing, I would have to chop through block wall to do it. I want to mount two separate vanities (like pic 2) on the one wall on the right. I'm experienced with cabinetry, so modifying the vanities to route pipes is no biggie...What I need are ideas on how to hide that plumbing BETWEEN the two vanities, in the middle. Ideas, suggestions, mental health counseling???
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:30 AM   #60
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Brainstorm ideas:

Don't hide it, make it as pretty as possible. Use a short section of copper DWV between the two vanities, with shielded rubber couplings on each end inside the vanities. Run copper water supply lines behind the copper DWV where they are mostly obscured, or between the block and the drywall.

Get a short section of 6" or 8" plastic pipe, cut it half axiallly, figure out how to mount it to the wall, and paint it to match the wall.

Box it out with wood, paint it to match the wall or the vanities.

Fur out the wall from the floor to approximately vanity height, just between the vanities. Optionally extend the vanity top material to cover this rectangular wall bulge. Either as all one piece, or for easier installation, an extra little piece of material between the vanity tops at a lower height.

Fur out the entire wall behind the vanities, either to vanity height or to the ceiling.

Cheers, Wayne
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