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Old 08-04-2017, 06:56 AM   #31
scottly
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Water supply near drain

Pic of some plumbers sin. :-)
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:02 AM   #32
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The original drain flange was metal(appears to be cast), held onto the ABS pipe with what appears to be a lead sleeve/adapter. I cut the flange into 4 quarters with a cutting wheel and it broke right off the lead sleeve. I then carefully cut the sleeve in several sections, being careful not to go deep enough to hit the underlying plastic pipe. I then twisted the pieces of the sleeve off. Using a dremel 1 1/4" cutting and shaping wheel(as it's called), I cut the pipe so that it is 1 3/4" below the surface of the existing pre-slope. I checked fitment of the drain and it twists on tight....I almost couldn't get it back off. :-) By my measurements, that would leave me with a mud pan that is about 1 3/4" at the edges of the drain flange. I should be Ok with that, no????
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:58 AM   #33
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Looking at your other pics, the shower steps down from the bath floor. The higher the drain is, the less of a step down you will have. So, the drain and riser pipe might be fine where you have it but I would set a level from the bath floor over to the drain and make sure you have at least the required 2 inches. Are you planning to have a curb?
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:39 PM   #34
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My plan is to have a 2" curb(above the bath floor). By my crappy math, if I put the drain in as-is, that will give me a height of 4" from bath floor to drain. The way it was, there was a 6" curb(above the bath floor) that you stepped over and down into a 4" drop....sometimes that doesn't feel good on the ol' back in the morning.

The other thing is this: Whomever put in the pan last time narrowed the shower down to about 29", and filled in the bath floor to make up the gap between the bath floor and the curb. Not really sure why they did that.
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:53 PM   #35
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The yellow line represents 32" on center from the back wall. The blue line is the bracing between the two studs that would normally be used to strengthen the stud that a door would bolt to...But the door was actually bolted to it, because that's where the curb lined up. The green area is immediately after a slope in the slab, where someone filled in to meet the curb when it was moved inward. They used some of the old tile that was ripped out of the bottom of the shower perimeter when the pan was replaced, to fill in the gaps....I was pulling pieces of it out. The curb was built out of un-treated 2x4's sitting on the slab, rotting from moisture. My plan is to chisel out the fill, install the Kerdi curb pieces I have at sunken slab level, which makes the curb height 2" over floor level. I then intend to level the floor up to the curb. I'm open to suggestions.
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Old 08-04-2017, 02:18 PM   #36
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Looks to me like, if you have 4 inches from the bath floor to the drain, when you add a 2 inch curb you'll have 6 inches and it'll be the same as you had before. You mentioned a Kerdi curb, I assume you'll cut it down to 2 inches tall.

I don't know the reason they made the shower narrower. If I understand you correctly, you'll put the curb right at the edge of the concrete. Since the shower will be wider now, you may need to add a few studs so you'll have something to anchor the door to. On the walls, the Kerdi needs to come out so it's inline with the outside of the curb. Basically, your wet area is larger than before so your Keri will need to extend out too. I'm assuming the green line is where the concrete drops down into the shower. Hard to tell by your pic.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:05 PM   #37
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Minus 2" for the mud bed. The edge of the green line....is the edge of the drop. The part that was filled in was done with thinset, and it's white in color...so where you see the color change, that is where the drop is. The old curb....to clarify....came 6" above the floor, not the sunken part.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:04 AM   #38
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Ok , I think I understand why they moved the curb inward. As I began to chip out the concrete to move the curb area back out, a demarcation line appeared and a huge chunk of concrete broke off to expose the original boundary between the bathroom floor and the sunken shower in the slab. The edge of the shower(as original) is only 13" from the center of the toilet flange, and is inline with the window. This would make it impossible to hang a shower door, shower curtain, etc., centered on the curb. So my plan is to place the center line of the curb so it lines up with a stud on either side of the wall....With the 4.5" Kerdi curb, that would make the pan exactly 32" deep. I will then fill in the floor space between the curb and the original line. I have 2 of those Kerdi curb sections. Is it Ok to cut one to make up for the 10" short the other one is, and line them up lengthwise?
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:17 PM   #39
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Yes, you can cut the Kerdi curb...just put some thinset between the ends when you put things back together, or you could use KerdiFix, but it's lots more expensive.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:04 AM   #40
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I cut it and made one long piece out of it. What worked really well is 3M 77 adhesive. It isn't corrosive to the foam and it sticks....really good. After making it the proper length, I used unmod thinset on each exposed end as well as troweling into place. One that cures, the mortar pan will get put down, then the cement to make up the space on the floor(where I moved the curb in) will get poured into place. Pics to follow. Thanks for the help, gents.
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Old 08-10-2017, 01:59 PM   #41
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Ok...tell me how bad I may have messed up. I put Kerdiboard on the walls, instead of using the membrane. I don't mind the investment....I ain't paying for labor anyway. :-) So, I bought thinset. What I got was Mapei Floor Tile Mortar. It meets 118.1, according to the bag. Seems to have worked well on the Kerdiband I used to cover the seems and fasteners. Then I look and see that this stuff it really low quality thinset??? It seems like my band is well adhered two days after setting it. Did I really screw up and do I need to redo it? Or is this going to work OK for sealing the board?
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Old 08-10-2017, 04:16 PM   #42
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If you were able to make a good installation with that mortar, you shouldn't really have any problems. I would not use any more of it, though, were I you.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:25 PM   #43
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Thank you. I was at Lowe's and they didn't have any of the Kera-xxx in unmodified....just this stuff. I'll look for something else. Otherwise, band is firmly embeded, and appears OK....of course, I guess there's no way of really telling.
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Old 08-10-2017, 08:48 PM   #44
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Our Lowes carries the kerabond T. Seems to be a good quality.
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Old 08-13-2017, 04:00 PM   #45
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Just finished the mud bed. Mad respect for you guys that do this for a living....my back aches, my knees ache, I'm done for the days. Pics to come.
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